Kaido_RR

ok... so the turbo is moving in x direction and the air places a force in y direction... and therefore the force in y direction add stress to the compounds in the turbo therefore reduing turbo life span? ps im not tring to me smart im tring to get a basic idea and try and do some calucation

is this an est or are you pulling the piss (sorry if you arnt i just have no idea of the average speed of the air) so the base idea when running no bov is that the air does a u-turn and head back into the turbo, which is spinning at a very high rpm and the air therefore forces the turbo shaft to move in the opposite direction of travel? is this correct? if this is so, do you know the possible value for; turbo shaft rpm speed (at say a constant boost level) intake air speed the returning air speed

yes you are correct - thats is the purpose of this thread.. Can i ask what would the speed, of the air be that is hitting the turbo and casuing compressen surge (sp)

ok im tring to achieved the best setup for my current use of my car (street daily driving and track time in the form of drifting) now the old problem i had when running stock bov on my oldsetup, was that it would leak and would result in boost spiking. with my current setup, i can only compare no bov and atmo bov and it seems that there is a maybe alittle less lag during gear change but i cant be 100% sure as i only took it for a 15mins drive. ALSO if u read what i wrote in my 1st post the reason i was running an ATMO bov is that it was not possible to run a plumb back one due to the intake pipe not having that option and i didnt have the time to mod it so i could uses a plumb back bov

ok they were both FULL atmo mode... on the stock setup, i was not running any sort of aftermarket ecu, piggyback or full... the car was just a stocker with a HKS bov and had no problem, it never stalled, it did run richer but that wasnt a big deal as any aftermarket mods on a stock ecu make the car run rich... on my current setup.. i was running stock PFC BASE TUNE with all my mods on (inc the blitz bov on full atmo mode) and i drove it around for about 1-2weeks before getting a tune and had no problems with stall... Yes i did notice increase lag in gear changes when running my aftermarket atmo bov on my stock setup... im not hoping to gain anything...the reason why i switch to running no BOV, as i was sick of the sound the atmo bov made and it is currently not possible for me to run a stock or full plump back bov without modding my intake pipe, which i currently dont have time to do.. when running stock bov, it was leaking and this cause problems which i was not happy with also alot of drifters (australian and jap) have their thinking that it helps to reduce lag when runnning no bov (this may be myth)

hmmm... again im suck in the middle.. its quite possable that what you are saying is correct but then i take alook at chases in which people do not run bov and do not have turbo failure...

hmmm ok 1-A) When running my HKS bov on my stockish car it did not stall once.... due to bov 1-B) When running my blitz bov on my new setup 300rwhp+ it did not stall once now in relation to your 1 and 2, do you have fact to back up what you are saying? at the moment i find there is alot of hear say about the damage running no bov will cause... and without hard fact, its hard to make an inform choice... i am going to research this more.....

Hi, I've started this topic, as after alot of searching i have yet to come up to a real answer to my question. but before i get onto that i would just like to state this has NOTHING TO DO WITH FLUTTER SOUND OR BOV SOUND, i dont care about any of these, im only interested in affects it will course good or bad. Ok Im currently running an rb25det with aftermarket turbo (hks gt2835 pros internal gate), it is running 11psi with all supporting mods. now due to kit having its own intake, i was force to run an atmosphere venting bov as it didnt have the opening for the return of the stock bov... Now i had my car tune and it was running fine no problems with the BLITZ bov. Now after speaking to a few people and reading up on it, i through i would give no the bov idea a try. so i block up the vac line connected to the bov and gave the car a quick run. i found there to be a redue in gear change lag but not a huge change.. now This is taken from an article by Autospeed: now that is the reason why i gave the no bov a try. Also i know that some* d1 drifter requirment that you do not run a bov, as it helps to redue lag by a given amount.... Also i know personal of one drifter in perth which run over 300rwhp on an rb25 without a bov and has yet to see a problem (running now for 1year+) BUT after doing some Searching on sau, its seem that alot of people belived that without a bov it causes damage to your turbo.... now who is right or is there an inbetween? thankyou michael p.s please keep this on topic as it has NOTHING TO DO WITH FLUTTER SOUND OR anything like that so please lets not turn this topic into that thankyou

i will take it! Pm sent!

im after the dash, is it S1 or s2? and do you have the dash surrounding?

so my comment was target directly at you, just saying in general that the greddy is a extremmely good ecu (of course that is if the tuner is good at tuning the ecu) im not 100% sure if u can run aftermarket ecu with the safc and sitc but you can just buy another addon like you have i know hks,greddy and pivot make one for running aftermarket injectors

greddy emanger ulimate with injector hardness = best option for an auto skyline

ian will u take $100? i give you $120 if it was black face...

i through i do much crapper You've experienced about 4.29% of perth pubs!

i can source no problem but it will take 1-3weeks the stock r33 rears are at my house.. so u can come grab them any time

hey dude i have stock r33 gts-t rear shocks and springs if u wanna borrom then shoot me a pm

when i went to nissan i got o-rings.. 2size one big, one smaller thats all i needed for my nismo injectors

thanks for that Craved but my turbo is not stock its aftermarket and it has an opening the same as this photo so im assuming that i would block up the hole in the intercooler and just uses the turbo. also for the feed hole, why does it say to uses the T-pieces isnt there only one line to the plenum (im guessing its the rear of the plenum yes?)

Hey, I've just got a Blitz SBC ID-3, i have found the english instruction but i still have a few question.. car is a r33 s1 rb25det For the 2 main holes Which is the In and Out, im guessing that the Actuator is In and the Out goes back into the turbo... (but does that mean the In on the box is the turbo-outlet and the out is the actuator?) so like this digram also the connection (tube) on the main cpu, does that go to back of the manifold and the intercoole pipe? thanks michael

ok.. RB25 injectors have 2 o-rings per injector (one smaller one, one bigger one) try northside nissan as they always able to get my parts for the r33 at a nice price

$15 for each wat? i pay like $20 or $30 for all the orings for my rb25 injectors (that is 12 orings)

all lies... where is rezz

i didnt have a problem with starting before the pfc and the nismo injectors where install : so im pretty sure my battery is fine

hey Yorik.. ur soo luck, i wish i could go to d1 ive try looking on yahoo auction but havnt come up with much

hi, i've just had my car tune. it was done as a safe tune... (ecu is pfc) but i was at the race track this weekend doing some drifting and on the straight i got a engine knock of around 70, this was a one off high value. for my other runs i wasnt getting a knock reading higher than 20 or so. was this just a random knock or is a problem and if so what should i do to address it? (im running most aftermarket gear fuelpump,injectors,turbo,fmic,exhuast etc) Also, i find that in the morning the car is abit hard to start, is this a general issue with aftermarket ecu. it isnt that bad but it isnt that great... if u get what im saying (its takes abit to crank over) Thanks Michael