Cecam

I've come across most of the above and fixed them all, lucky mostly other peoples cars though Stereos usually ground problems (x4), though changing gear is a weird one, so I'll go with the shift linkage or similar pushing on a wire... Climate Air controls, the screen craps out, fixed two of those by resoldering them, easy job. Same with Gxi/GTE/GTS's (not GTSt or any hicas equiped car) power steering modual, fixed three of those which had dry joints.

Well got a Surf (4Runner) in the family for the last 7 or 8 years so I get to have that fun without the ownership costs Just as well, that thing sucks the gas just as bad as the Skyline...

Yeah well you just need to make yourself needed and it solves that problem usually, but kills off promotion options in a larger firm if your not replacable... something like that anyways...being a small company it was never an option for me regardless. I looked late last year for another job but theres stuff all around at the moment... well for the same pay anyways.

I was employeed as a temp... 3 weeks work at the time... that was four years ago, I guess I should really get my contract updated...

How do you guys manage to slack off at work so much? No internet traffic monitoring eh? Or maybe unlike me you don't have work piled upto the ceiling that I really should clear... later... in a few months maybe....

Wurring noise from where? Gearbox or engine? My R32 auto packed a sad after taking it to the drags and from then onwards when at or near WoT instead of shifting into 3rd, it was like it still had 2nd engaged and binded up... possibly something similar, or its now slipping... Do the auto diags and see if that shows anything?

Life after a Skyline ain't bad, I keep alternating between Supras and Skylines (had three of each now over the last few years), but got it out of my system now... I think... My R33 will be gone in about two months time as I'll flick it before the rego etc runs out so I'll find out then Wranglers are abit of fun, but personally don't like them to drive, the Cherokee are a bit nicer to drive, and appear to have more power from the same engine (142Kw?).

I went to look at a R32 GTS25 which was getting wrecked, and "to make it lighter" the guy had chopped off the roof so was easier to push around... not sure abut that bit, but I did open the doors and see how much the body flexed. It wasn't actually too bad and I don't think would need too much strengthing.... pity he was in the sticks coz he only wanted $250 for the car complete the motor et al, might of been an interesting project...

I found my gauge can get sticky of I don't drive it for a little while, last time I left it parked with a full tank the needle stayed on the full mark till the tank was nearly empty and then fell. It improved with some more refills later on and now it smooth again. The R32 used to do it as well after sitting for a week or more. As for economy, best I got from my stock auto R33 25t was actually last week which was exactly 10km/ltr, and before that I think the previous best was something lowly like 8km/ltr. Worsts been been about 6km/ltr... 0h more thing with fuel gauges, the R33 has this weird setup which is basicaly along tube with float, which clips in on the front of the tank (on an angle), I've known them to come loose which may give erract readings...

Well if you give it a quick rev you will generate boost as the engines temporary loaded accelerating its own rotating mass, but thats very short, so thats why you hear the bov when you give it a quick stab... which can make you launch abit harder if you time it right... autos have boost because of the resistance/load from the torque converter... I know of a few conversions where a rb20det turbo and manifold has been fitted to a rb25de (changed ecu and injectors obviously) and that made boost at idle.... looks weird when you go to take it for a test drive and the gauge is sitting at 5psi while its just idling away...

My mate just got married, he has a white R33 GTS25t and she has a white R32 GTS4 with GTR style kit... so groom/bestman/groomsmen (I hate that name) turned up in those two and she came in a white limo... looked fairly good... End of the day it depends on much your wanting to spend...

It will be cheaper from Japan still I think you'll find. Unless you've lived in and owned the car in NZ for a while (6 months or a year?) then I think you can take it with you without much issue, thats my current understanding of it...

When the needles above 0 the manifolds under positive pressure (over atmosphere), so yes its making boost from there on. The negative scale when just the intake vacuum, ie when its running like a normal N/A car... Your better off buying an aftermaket boost gauge thou because the factory one is crap. Oil pressure seems about right...

Not much in the way of tax so its just purchase price in Japan, plus say $1.3K shipping, and about $600 or so compliance and thats about it really. Theres gst on on the purchase price, but thats not too bad... Where I will be heading today (Coromandel) on the coast will be fun drive, but the quality of the roads are absolute crap.... The old junk is already in NZ so not getting imported, your in fine form if you want a 1980's Bluebird for example, theres pages of them in the paper... Besides, old or new they still have their road worthy every 6 months so they could of tighten up those laws if they actually wanted the junk off the roads.

Hmm... Heres a typical nz dealer website; http://www.croydons.co.nz/l_nissan2.htm 98 2.5T Coupe, $18K 98 GTT 4 dr, $20K If anything those prices are on the more expensive side... Esp the 25T coupe there... At my local 'park and sell' type place there was four R33's last time I looked. All under $8K. Three weeks later they were still sitting there with a GTS25t four door asking $7K. Still hasn't sold... neither has the manual coupe for $7.5K...

Nissan, Toyota, Ford and Holden used to have plants in Wiri (Auckland) but I don't think thats the case anymore. Except for Ford wheels.... Sure is. Only the NZ govenment could come up with that one I'm sure. Front Impact law is quite flawed ... R33's ain't selling...not for much anyways. Last year my S1 GTS25t Coupe was circa $12K. Now I can't shift it until I get down to about $7K. Or $6K as a trade in. SII Coupes are in the dealers between $12K and $16K, but why bother when a R34 is $16K for GT and $20K for GTT...

Need to watch those Mines Ecu's. I've seen a few cars start to do weird things and it was always the ecu failing. I know of two cars that went better with the factory ecu when they replaced them...

Doesn't show the colour too great in this pic, but thats the factory green....

I have seen three factory green R32's. They are dark green metallic.

Well, before last year you could import anything of any age into NZ without a problem. Now you can only import cars in the 1996 to 1998 bracket and newer. Largely depends on the make and model and when they introduced airbags etc as std equipment (thats the offical line, doesn't quite work out like that however!). This applies to anyone whether its private or a dealer. Its stupid, for example some series 2 GTS25ts can be complied, but others can't. Depends on the chassis number, the fact its the same car doesn't matter. I assume thats what he ment?

I think its not turbo/na related nor options but the factory where it was manufactored in Japan?

hawker05.. the space savers fit on both front and back, so you've got one from another car... as for burn outs, I've seena few people use them and that actually last quite a long time.. hard rubber I guess... Fit two on the back and go for a drive, quite entertaining, well, when you have 2x Skyline ones that fit...

GTS25 autos are actually five speed... GTS25t autos are four speed... so '5 speed' could actually be either for an N/A, thats both R32 and R33's. Dunno about R34's.

I had a exhaust made up at my local place for my old GTS, was 2¼" and only had a (large) resonator near the front and a smallish muffler at the back and picked up about 8Kw at the wheels and lost no low down torque, picked up quite a bit in fact. However seeing some GTS's fit 2½" exhausts they did loose low end when redyno'd.. and that includes GTS25's.. but your only going to get fairly small gains no matter what you do in an N/A car... including PVA's suguestion of NOS as I don't think a RB20DE will handle much more than a 50hp shot???

0h yeah, auto's should be measured in Drive and not Park as well....