WetGTR

From what I understand just installing it would not get you any gains but that is because you need to tune for those gains. The better spark will burn the fuel more efficently but to take advantage of the power gains you need to tune your ECU. So to answer your question - No. It's like all good upgrades, needs tunning. Good thing to install though, most of the time this is one area that has been always over-looked.

Here is another with 1.3bar (18psi) of boost and a Garrett T04Z on a built motor. Very similar to R32-GTS except he has more top end then I do. These Garretts are a great Turbo! Love to get to 600HP though!!

hmmmm its gooood!! Nice to hear that he didn't charge. I think its a good idea to always try discussing your problem if your not happy with something. At least it gives them a chance to discuss it. What the worst that can happen....they do nothing, your no worse off. If your still not happy, go back again. Same situation as above. Hope all it well now and keep us up-dated.

I didn't know that HKS Oil Coolers had the thermostate in the sandwich section. You learning something everyday. That being said I understand that the oil cooler will act as a heat sink but it will go up in temp fairly quickly I believe while it is idiling.

Don't buy that ebay fake stuff. What doughboy sells are the genuine article and the C's short shift is a great product - I have one in my GTR R33 and couldn't ask more from a shifter and it's quality design. As for the WRX, I installed a shift shifter into one and its not as precise as the C's short shifter which has a much nicer feel. You pay for what you get and doughboys price is reasonable.

I have ordered and I'm sure so so many other people have ordered from both Greenline and Nengun - their doing a great job in providing parts and a good price. Don't hesitate to use them As for bearings; Kings (bi-metal), ACL (tri-metal), Nismo (tri-metal), Nissan (tri-metal) in that order but saying that a Nissan bearing is also used in alot of high HP cars. The preference above is only my opion but if I had Nissan bearings installed I wouldn't complain! Maybe more to do with availibility and cost.

Once I had mine installed (HKS Oil Cooler) there was no difference in the amount of time the oil came up to operating temp @75 degress at cold start. It was around 2min of idiling , belt up slowly out of drive way and stuff (oil temp ready) and slow driving after that for 5min - 10min to be safe. The oil cooler only helped keep my oil temp at 75-80 where as before it used to go higher after a blast. Oil Coolers will not work unless air is passing through them so I don't understand why without a thermostate there would be any difference. I also have -12 braided earl lines and connecters. Alot of oil running around and also pressure has nothing to do with flow. Remember N1 oil pumps....they have higher pressures but don't flow any more then a standard pump.

I have run my car without an oil cooler and I have run the same car with an oil cooler. It has always stayed at around 80 degrees and stays there. Good thing with the oil cooler (non-thermostate type) is that even after a hard drive it stayed at 80 degrees, without it it used to go up. My cooler was made by HKS and if they thought it would of been better to include a thermostate - they would of included it. I always thought once I had the cooler that temps would be very low but it does get to 80 degress quickly but it stays there.

Good to hear from you Greg! How would the tunnels go out of alignment? Could an engine builder do that? Could it be that if a block was tunnel bored that could also cause a mis-alignment problem? It seems that its not too hard spinning a bearing but at so low km there is defiently a problem. I think it's more about the engine builders ability then it is on the parts. Also it seems that RB26 have alot of bearing problems but I haven't heard many people spin or have bearing problems in RB30's. Are they not the same block design? I understand that RB26 rev alot higher then the RB30 but is this the only reason?

Still got the RB26 Block? cheers Adam

Hi I'm after someone that wantes to sell a RB26 Block with the crank craddle. Don't need crank, rods,pistons or anything else. Ready to buy right now! FOUND ONE - THANKS GUYS!!

I think SK meant if it was a brand new item re: standard GTR R33 oil pump (new) vs a N1 Oil Pump (new) I understand that you wanted to change yours, not only for the sake of more pressure but mainly due to the original pump possibly being a bit worn.

Well its a start! Alot of tuners always think that way - If ever in doubt just run it rich It can be very over done at times. Has to be a balance - good tuners are getting that balance correct.

Tune clock wise for more pressure. Should attach a fuel pressure gauge though so you know how much pressure.

I know how you feel with the new BOV venting to atmosphere but this is causing your problem. When venting to atmo you lose air which your ECU thinks it already has. This is causing it to run rich and possibly a bad idle where it is hunting. You need to plum it back unfortunealty. Your car will start to mis-fire after a while cause your spark plug are now fouled. Get them replaced and the car will run fine again unless of course you keep that BOV on, then this problem will come back. I've noticed that some people have luck with a BOV that vent to atmo and others don't. Might have to do with installation & or type of BOV.

Always thought that GCG produced good products, but maybe not in this case. Play it safe - go the Nissan. Not complicated to install, just put in place and bolt her up. Maybe some lock tight on the nuts so they don't come loose.

Either Nissan or GCG Turbo's. As long as it's a quality item and not that cheap stuff.

Get the proper gasket. Should fix the problem. You can't use cheap crap here, just won't work. It is possible to warp it but I don't think this has happened in your situation. Sealent will not help much - too hot - even more reason to get the proper gasket.

You can always go to a place that sells bearings and o-rings. Got to be cheaper there! Just take in the injector and fuel rail and they should have what you need.

I'II try to help but looks like a real mess in there. Firstly you should download the EVC manual and that shows how to do the vacuum lines. Secondly, it won't make a difference if you change them to bigger or the same line cause the items connected just need to measure how much vacuum there is not actually using the vacuum to do a task. First there are 3 points where there is true vacuum. One: near your fuel pressure - small Second: on the opposite side to this - small Third: Under your AAC unit - where your inlet plenum is - large. Be carful not to use anything from the inlet plenum as this will give false readings (happened to me and hard to pick cause there is some vacuum but it's wrong) You can connect multiple items to these hoses so don't worry. If this doesn't help you then we have to follow exactly where each line comes from and where it going. That way we clean up this mess. If you know someone with the same engine - copy them, this would be easier. I'll try to help where I can. cheers Adam

The nissan ones would be good and they can't cost too much just when you re-install them, spray some WD40 on the o-ring part so it goes in smoothly into the fuel rail.

Looks like a nice experiment but I think some magic smoke will be happening... Just because it looks simple, doesn't mean it works that way. There are more things to consider. People who have experimented with their igition system have fried their coils, ECU, ignitor modules and so one. Hope all works out but I wouldn't do it!! I've heard alot of horror stories about igition systems so its your call, make sure you do alot of research first.

While the engine is still in the car, place it in gear & pull the hand brake. Get a very long extension cause that bolt is a bitsh to loosen.

Not sure if this helps but I know the Nismo injectors have a low lag time compared to other brand injectors.

I was hoping there won't be any charge actually, should be, well hope it to be part of their after sales service, hope that this type of thing still exists. I know my tuner in Melbourne always gives me aftersales service & I always go back to him and recommend others. Hope all tuners out there adhere to the same principles