WetGTR

Keep us informed about how it goes with the tuner

Sorry Brad, didn't mean to upset you. Thought I'd try to hunt around for prices. Some were trying to charge $1200 + GST then another $500 - $700 for installation.

Well said!! ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^ I say let the mum drive it!!!

Got a price on the Autronics 500R CDI $888.80 which has GST included plus $15.00 for delivery. The Mercury Units are $35.00 each but priced from the US Got prices for the Autronics CDI from a few different placed but the price above was the best - placing the order tomorrow.

Take it back to where you got it tuned. Give them the chance to help you, hopefully its a simple problem and they might be more then happy to help. I might be too optimistic but I hope they don't want one of the cars they have tuned runing like that. If not, then you can cross that bridge when it comes but I'm sure there are some reputable tuners that will get it right. Your car runs as good as the tuner that tunes it!!

I know it's not want you want to hear but maybe you should get a tuner to tune all this up on the dyno. I'm sure you have thought that but there are so may factors and with what your doing, I beleive that the hand controller is good if you want to fine tune something but I think in your case a full tune on the dyno will get your engine running as it should if its all functioning properly. Then again I'm no expect on the PFC - hopfully a simple setting could solve your deilema

You might have 250rwkw but this dosen't mean you should have bad economy. If everything is working, correct installation, a good tune and good driver behaviour your fuel economy should be good, I believe 400+ km at least, some people I'm sure are getting alot more or a bit less.

I have the Autronics SMC runnning in my car atm. I am just in the process of purchasing a CDI unit after some good advice. I'm going for the Autronic 500R CDI unit which are a top of the line product but the HKS item is not a bad item as well. You can use your standard coils but they were not design for CDI setup and can overheat very quickly. Many people purchase the Mercury Outboard Coils, MSD, M&W, Bosch coils as they are cheap and complatible with CDI setup. If you have an Autronics ECU, I recommend going with the Autronics 500R CDI unit. I don't know about this Crane product but I know alot of people have big problems when trying to setup a CDI setup so going the proven way works for me.

Better fuel economy then what your getting!!! If its recently been tuned maybe speak to the tuner and get them to check it out. Backfiring, popping & black smoke are all tell tail sign of it running rich. There might be other factors to consider - did this suddenly happen or was this straight after your tune. Something like your O2 Sensor, Airflow meter, Fuel Reg, vacuum leak, clogged injectors could be having an effect. If straight after your tune - speak with them as a re-tune is needed or the fault has to be found before this can be sorted.

As you can see there are limited companies that produce the bearings for the RB26 re: Nismo, nissan, tomei. The problem is when a company like ACL or King has bearings that you wish to use on the RB26 but haven't yet released them for it but have released it for the RB30 or they just don't have the right size your after for the RB26. I'm not saying this is always the case but I know engine builders can use the bearing from an RB30 when they are required to do so. Hopefully these companies catch up and produce the all available range of bearing for the RB26. Kings have bearings for the RB26 which I beleive are superior to the Nismo, Nissan ones re: Nissan, Nismo are tri-metal and Kings are bi-metal

It's got to do with what products are available. The bearings available for the RB30 are vast where the RB26 has a smaller range. Also the type of bearings are limited for the RB26. For example: You might be able to get a higher grade bearing, a certain brand of bearing but only for the RB30. They just require a bit of machining and don't look as pretty as the ones made for the RB26. Who cares about the looks of it as long as it does the job but it would concern me that the right machining is done. If its wrong then SPUN BEARING. I think this is one of those reasons to try and stick with ones made for the RB26. If your engine builder is confident about the machining process and you don't car how they look then RB30 ones are the way to go if they have what you are looking for. Hope that made sense....

Maybe its just me but unshore of the pipes you are trying to define. I beleive you are going about this the right way as if you get the wrong vacuum line, things like boost, fuel pressure,etc that require the correct vacuum pressure will be all over the place. I use a HKS EVC III and they are a terrific unit. Unless you are sure, don't throw it away. Maybe if you outline and label what you are talking about, it will help to determine the problem. Just 1 small vacuum line cost me $500 in a wrong tune, had to get it done again. Was not happy for something trivial.

I think there is some machining requirments for them to fit but proper installation is required. It might not be the bearings fault, other factors could of caused the spun bearing issue.

You hear an echo.......... Running rich because of the BOV. I'd say your original one is a plump back version were this new one vent to atmo. Your air flow meter already has sensed the air go in so it provides the fuel for that amount of air. When the air gets vented out and not back in....too much fuel and that's when you get the popping. Even if you place the silcer back in and don't hear it, it is happening, running rich that is. Not a huge issue as it only happening at the time its venting out unless you have an air leak now from the BOV or the BOV is not sealing properly. You'll have to check this out.

Just lıke R31Nismoid saıd!! Go the single and all your Turbo problems are solved!!

Yeh the Kıng bearıngs are top of the shelf stuff!! The nıssan bearıngs & nismo bearings are made of trimetal but the King bearing are made of something which I have forget which type but its a better metal

I little birdy told me that PRO ENGINES might be developing a 2.8 stroker kit with full counter weight crank. He is on this forum and goes by the username proengines. If anyone knows him, you'll know he knows his stuff. From what I know it's still under development and if there is enough interest he'll do it. I'm pretty sure he also said that he would be making the re-sleve kit as well to give strength to the whole engine. I know if he does it that it would be awsome. I know I want one!!!!

One place I would trust is PRO ENGINES. They are in Canberra and all they do is build engines & everything inhouse. If you want it done right the first time then go there. They go buy the username of proengines on this forum. Have a look at some of his posts and you'll see what I mean, this guys KNOWS what he is doing and is well priced. If you are worried that he is too far, it only cost $120.00 to send him your engine - HOW GOOD IS THAT!!!

The N1 oil pump is just a standard oil pump with a stiffer relief value. It will increase oil pressure and is a good idea when rebuilding an engine. Oil Pressure would be increased but it flows the same amount of oil. One weak point of the RB26DETT is the oil pump, so replacing it with an N1 is a good idea. @$600 is a standard sort of price, you could get it a bit cheaper but not that much cheaper. Don't forget to either blockup or get one of those Tomei Offores(spelling) to stop all that oil going to the Head of the Engine. You want the oil staying in your sump not the Head.

I'm pretty sure that it would work on any ECU unit. What's needed is the Ignition output wires from the ECU. With these outputs you can wire them up into the Igition inputs for the CDI unit. For the RB26, you need 3 igition outputs to wire in and there you go. The actual wiring for the CDI unit is not complicated mostly just 12V constant, 12V igition, ground & the inputs from the ECU, where that be a PFC or Autronics, etc. As said you need to replace the coils your using atm with something complatible with CDI setup. The HKS unit is a Plug and Play unit (if you purchase the harness) but there are a few different CDI out there. Personally I like the Autronics 500R CDI unit working with the MSD coils or the Mercury ones. Looking to purchase this type of setup maybe soon but just need to confirm with my tuner if he has any thoughts.

I'm after the Autronics 500R CDI unit. If anyone wants to sell one then I'II buy it at a reasonable cost. It's for a RB26DETT but I know these units are universal in there application. PM me if you have one. Thanks

Does this stuff work? What would the cost be? Wouldn't be bad to get i done before it chews a gearset up.

LESS POWER..... Alot of people are trying to get more POWER!!! B) Trying to get less is.......can't even say the words. Well I'm making around 560hp and my box is holding up, I might be making more then 560hp anyway cause I did an exhaust upgrade and really felt the difference but I haven't a dyno result to prove it. Keep us informed on how it goes. Best of luck with the gearbox anyway.

Not good then. I really wanted to get to that 600HP mark but now I'm scared that my gearbox will not hold. Wouldn't mind spending the money on the OS Giken gearset if mine went but one day I'd like a GTR R34 and wanted to transplate as much gear as possible from my GTR R33. With the 6 speed Getrag box in the R34 you can't transplate it. What are your thoughts on fixing the problem? Second hand boxes are going cheap....

Thanks SK!! Was hoping you could shed some light on this issue. As you could see we knew the CDI system must be superior but wasn't sure why and what benefits it would provide. The Autronics CDI with MSD coils seems popular. Motec must be a top of the line product as well Well there goes my spitfire coils then, can't use it with the CDI setup. Would this system help in better economy, I understand that it produces a better burn so effiency would be better but the figures you have shown are in the higher rpm range. If this saves on fuel cost's, then maybe in the long term it would help offset the cost. What about low rpm range, like highway driving? I can see why it's not on the hot list for power increases, @$1600 (CDI & Coils) for only @40bhp but the other benefits look attractive as well. What you think? cheers Adam