Lithius

Ah okay cheers, the guys there were adamant that NGK didn't make copper spark plugs. Eventually got them to give me the right ones! Thanks.

I've got all my coils out at the moment, they all look to be in good condition. Does anyone know what copper NGK plugs I need for an RB25DET NEO? The repco/autopro guys don't seem to have any idea because it isn't in there book. I have Iridiums in it at the moment (BKR6EIX) but I want to get some cheap coppers to regap to 0.8mm. Are they the same plugs as for the R33 RB25?

Yeah I kinda figure there's an underlying issue (coilpacks?) but the way I see it gapping the plugs to .8 is just a temporary fix until I get around to getting some splitfires. Maybe I should just leave them alone and buy the splitfires straight up. Or have a look at the coilpacks and see if I can araldite them.

I don't have the problem at .6 bar... I think its about .7+ where I'm starting to misfire

Hey all, sorry to have to ask but in all my searching I couldn't find a definite answer for the R34 GTT and i'm not sure if they use the same as the other RB25 engines. Does anyone know If I can buy pre-gapped plugs that are .8mm to suit the NEO RB25DET? If so what is the part # for these, I went into a few places today and they couldn't help me. Otherwise i'm going to have to re-gap the Iridiums I have in it because they are seriously mis-firing above .6 bar. I'll also be looking at the coils and possibly treating them with araldite when I have the plugs out. Which reminds me, does anyone know of a guide for removing R34 GTT plugs? Found one for the RB25DE engine but I think it may be a different setup. Thanks.

Hey just out of curiousity, my tuner replaced my copper plugs with Iridium NGKs and all of a sudden i'm getting huge misfire around 5000rpm (at 0.8 bar) Nothing else has been changed as far as I know. Does it sound like they're 1.1mm gapped and I just need to change it to 0.8? Gread thread by the way, very helpful to a newbie like myself.

I did 523km off 53L yesterday, highway driving but still pretty good I think.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=128515 http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...=177657&hl= 400km+ from about 55L of 98 octane.

I've never gotten under 400km a tank with mine, it's 204rwkw and manual. I usually get around 450km off about 50L.

http://www.torrentspy.com/search.asp?h=3A3...&submit.y=0 or aussietorrents like Kero said, I think that's where the torrentspy site gets them from anyway.

You can get them if you use bittorrent. Torrentspy.com has them all on there, most of them anyway.

Ah okay yeah that makes sense, I was wondering why you would have to get a new flywheel machined heh. Just need to save up my pennies and i'll be going the same route. Does the clutch feel much different than the stock? I'm thinking of going for the next one up (5 puk 300rwkw) because I eventually want to upgrade to a GCG hi-flow.

So you stuck with the stock flywheel and just got it lightened...?

Did you end up getting any quotes for installation? My clutch is starting to slip @ 200rwkw so I'm looking at replacing it soon, may as well do the flywheel while i'm at it.

R34 GTT 0.8 Bar Power FC Hybrid FMIC 3" Turbo back exhaust Boxed pod with CAI Standard turbo, injectors, afm, fuel pump 204rwkw @ 12 PSI

So with a GCG highflow along with my PFC and intercooler I could run around 225rwkw with standard injectors, fuel pump, and airflow meter? Do the fuel pump and afm become inadequate around the same time as the injectors?

I had the same problem with my R32, got a secondhand AFM off this site for $40 or something, worked like a charm. If there's none on this site maybe try jap wreckers. It's simple to change it over too, I did it myself and i'm useless.

Yep that's the option i've gone for... the parts arrived today but couldn't get it into the auto electrician till monday so won't know until then if it's gonna work or not. Fingers crossed. Got the parts from importdriver.com.au they were pretty helpful.

Which part is the switch? The story is now that the ballasts on both sides are stuffed so I've ordered 2 replacement ones. They are fairly confident that that should fix it. Strange tho that both sides are f**ked and not just one.

Apparently the ignition module or something has gone in my R34 GTT headlights, just wondering if anyone had a set of working headlights forsale and how much they're asking? Or alternatively does anyone know if it's possible just to source an ignition module? As the lights do seem to work fine, they just sometimes don't turn on.

Took it into another place today and they say the lights are totally stuffed. Something to do with the ignition module and i'll have to get new ones from japan. Anyone have any idea how much that'll cost me? Or even a cheaper alternative just to get some working lights so I can pass blueslip. I know they are meant to take out the xenon lights when R34s get complianced so what do they put in instead?

But when the buzzing sound occurs, the light it happens on won't even light up, no matter how long I wait. And if it was a normal feature wouldn't it prevent both lights from lighting up, not just one? I know what you mean about the pink, when I first turn them on it takes like a second for them to become fully bright... A place I took it to today said it had something to do with the Xenon module and that they'd have to take the front bar off to get to it etc etc... I think it's amounting to a rather expensive little expedition.

Hey guys, just having a bit of trouble with my R34 and getting it passed the blue slip here in NSW. It has the factory Xenon lights which were put back in after compliance. The place doesn't have a problem with this (they probably don't know what xenons are) but they have a problem because they can't turn the lights on, then off, then on again without the lights (usually only one) failing. I was told that the Xenons have a delay timer so that you can't switch them on and off really fast etc and blow them. If I turn the lights on, then off, then try turn them on again a few seconds later a buzzing noise can be heard under the bonnet from the lights, and either both won't come on, or just one won't come on. And it alternates between the two.. sometimes the right one comes on the and left doesn't, sometimes the left comes on and the right doesn't. I would've thought if they were on a delay thing it would affect them both equally? I actually had a mobile auto electrician here to have a look at it but he didn't have any idea (fairly small town so imports and/or xenons are pretty rare here) Everytime I turn them off and leave them for 30secs then try them again they seem to work.. I wonder if I can convince the workshop that it's a factory feature (if that's the case) Thanks in advance.

Can anyone do a check on the following? Thanks in advance 6U90000ER34029027

Looks alright?