342Four

another thing stopping you revving high is the harmonic balancer the rb30's are notorious for blowing bits apart (ie belts) at high revs due to harmonic issues a decent harmonic balancer would be the go if u want to get higher revs otherwise u could be running the risk of damaging ur engine contact sydneykid for details - i think he does harmonic balancers for the rb30, or he can get them for u

omg - sex in a engine bay

vn coils are shit cause they cross fire between the coils very easily go to the au ones

u got an unfiar advantage tj being a fotographer and all that u see these hot little things all the time at shows and shoots and get talking and next thing u no voila - there at ur bday party

i wanna no if the owner of the r34 GTR Z-TUNE 2 is on these forums it was on the cover of the latest autosalon mag and hot damn it is a nice car (has NSW plates 'NISMO')

If ur SOR got to HOLMES PANEL AND PAINT they do an awesome job, but they will be busy as, sooooo.... if ur willing to wait for about a month +

still, 3.4 litres from an rb is a mean accomplishment and with the more discplacment = more torque down low, it kinda balances out not being able to rev past 8000 rpm but, on the other hand, 10k rpm in a na would be sweeeeeet sound almost F1 like, or like a gallardo, but with 6 cyls instead of 12 (or is it 10?)

this is what a hicas lock bar looks like in its place should be a big solenoid thingo the rubber boots are connected to the toe arms that turn the rear wheels (PS this is the first decent pic i found, i'll try and find more) which is from this car by the way which is MAD: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/447636

yes...well...no HICAS according to the pic of the diff there would be a big solenoid thingo there and that box with wires? wouldnt have a clue

*why is this in classic skylines?

well, cam then...or not at least do some justice to it with extractors and a decent exhaust to make it sound alright about the ecu tho, wouldn't it chuck a wobbly since there are no injectors to run?

how much info do u have on the old school Apex AFC's nib? i looking at getting one of eBay for about $50 for my excel cause it runs pretty rich (the old school one dial AFC's, and maybe the S-AFC multi dial ones - if u no what im talking about)

plus theres something about a thumping v8 and especially carbied with a really lumpy idle mmmmmmmmmmmm put some mean cams and ohhh....... man, im drooling thinking about it

i do the same thing on my excel every now and then what i do is warm the car up to normal temp, then remove the red battery terminal i let it sit for a about 5 minutes, then depress teh brake pedal for ~20 sec to discharge all teh capacitors, then immediatly connect the battery back up again now i dont no how well this would work in a more modern car with a more sophisticated ecu, so i wouldnt really recommend it unless ur confident to do it, as it has the potential to screw something up hope it helps

hijacking a bit - geraldton and augusta? thats like two opposites of te map its something i wouldnt want to f**k with anyway, even on my car

nice find if its come with nismo tuned suspension if ur willing to jack the rear up u will see (if uve got hicas) a big solenoid thingo in front of the diff (ie blocking the diff from ur view) and coming from that are some arms with boots on the ends of them (black rubber things to stop dust and dirt getting in) that go towards the wheels. if u see that then uve got hicas - it controls the rear toe arms to essentially turn the rear wheels in accordance with the speed ur going to make the turn 'easier'

fully S!k heCt!c br0!!! my excel beats thta hands down at 20fwGw its got huge 70litre engine mate!!! how could u seriously get 200 out a n/a rb25 unless theres some serious mods but then that car u would imagine would be far more xpensive??

if ur worried bout that shit happening then maybe look at a r31 skyline i no that every man and his dog has got one, but because there soooo many of them parts are cheap (ish) theres help on this forum, torque rb30 is fun (esp if u can find manual), and if u do break a timing belt, so what, the valves wont smash into the pistons (reputadly anyway, somebody on here will surely have come across it and shoot me down). and if u do want to do a bit of drifting, get a second diff centre, sink a few sticks of weld into it and voila, locked diff and flop drift drifting but if a r31 is not ur thing, then the 'teg is deff the way to go, look ultra sleek, go like rockets, what else would u want?

still, chase after him and beat him down theres nothing like the satisfaction of beating someone who has done the dodgy on u there are soooooo many diff things u can do man, just go with what ur heart and wallet says (a rb30/25 would be cool, but maybe u can only afford a rb20, u no what i mean)

i have not run in an engine myself so i couldn't say from first hand, but from what ive read, cams do not need to be 'broken in' on modern engines, primarily it is the rings that needed to be beded (spelling?) in.regarding HOW to do that, well, theres a lot of diff methods here is one from a street commo mag (and i no there diff engines one being OHV and the other DOHC): a decent quality oil is used, engine under light loads for 20min to check for oil leaks. after that varying revs between 2500-3500 rpm for a while (will depend and when boost comes on tho) to see that it is performing up to scratch and then the engine is loaded up to bed the rings after half an hour on the dyno (engine dyno) the oil is dumped, regular oil is put in and the engine should be ready to go re oils: some say that a prime for 20 minutes with a cheapy semi synth oil to get rid of any garbage that may have got in (very very fine crap, dust) and too check for oil leaks is a good idea, then dump oil and put a fresh filter in then fill with a decent oil of ur choice to use for 2000-2500kms or so (while bedding rings and stuff, and getting engine up to scratch), then ur free to use ur regular oil after that like ben said, there are varying methods to run it in, just like there are various different oils u can use for ur engine and there are pros and cons for both the general method seems to be to run for 20 min to check for leaks and stuff, then under various loads to check up to scratch, then bed the rings in.

9.24% sexually active 8.2% are active drinkers 23.15% ford drivers 8.43% nissan drivers 73% born in europe 28 food outlets 31 sports/health clubs apparently were the top scorers in the 'melting pot', whatever that means exactly

if ur interested the problem is fixed one of the wires from the loom had rubbed bare under the dash and was earthing itself out under load it was too much and it would run on three cylinders - hence the shuddering here i was replacing injectors, fuel filter, air intake temp sensor blaa blaa blaa all good now and hopefully my fuel economy goes back up too!!

in the space of me posting it and then viewing it 2 more people had signed it so the turnover rate must be pretty good

done and done 36479 Signatures Total

yeah true