Rolls

if you are having problems with boost up high get a stronger spring, be easier to control and will require less air to be bleed and hence work better. better investment imo

ah ok, that pic makes it more obvious, I can see how it normally would be under vacuum at that point, but when surge occurs it be earlier in the blade, I assumed the surge slots went directly to the blade and there wasn't a right angle like in that pic. ty

yeah and about 30m of the capark essentially collapsed.

rb20 or rb25 green label afm is what you need, if you use a different afm you will need the ECU to be completely retuned.

yeah and about 30m of the capark essentially collapsed.

why not stay standard and use a nistune? it has enough features for most cars.

I dont get why there is only a pressure difference there during surge, there is always going to be a pressure difference, eg the intake is always under vacuum and the blades are always under pressure, so there will always be a large pressure difference, it will be even larger during surge so I guess more will flow out of them at this time, but why don't they continue to leak flow at higher rpm?

The funny thing is that post was actually a reply to my question! however I still don't quite follow the exact details of what is going on, I don't get why it leaks air at low rpm stopping surge but doesn't leak more air at high rpm essentially wasting the compressors flow.

My advice for summer is to get lots of heat soak driving around in traffic then rev out 3rd gear on a 35c day with someone in the car with a knock sensor and knock ears listening to the engine. If it pings, pull some timing and you've probably just extended the life of the motor by 50%, most aftermarket tunes that haven't been tweaked will ping in this situation. Any decent tuner should spend the 1 hour required to do this if you ask, I personally got it done for $50 but I would expect most tuners would charge at least $120/h. The other thing to do is set up ignition vs coolant temp trim tables, basically if it gets real hot just pull loads of timing out, once again it'll probably save the motor if you thrash it on a hot day. The next thing is to get a large aftermarket radiator. Anything else is a waste and a false sense of security, pinging is far worse than overheating the motor, and you can get pinging well before it overheats.

sounds laggy and shit, OP you should seriously seriously consider selling the turbo and getting a GT30

yeah the car is fine now, stripped the interior and cleaned everything, hung it on the line for 3 days and put it all backtogether, carpet looks brand new now.

I don't know of any stock rb25des that make 110kw at the wheels, maybe with a cam and a tune they might but itd be stretching it. I dont think youd see more than 90-100kw 150kw is just a number mate, you should have gotten a before and after dyno to see what the increase was, who knows it might have only read 110kw before you tuned it? The 40kw is not a big difference because they are almost certainly making similar power levels and it is just different temps, dynos and other things making the figure vary so much. I would say your figure is normal, get a FMIC with 12psi and a retune and you might see 170kw, but end of the day its a stock turbo so you wont ever see massive results. All that $1k was required for any future mods anyway so it might seem like a lot for a little gain, but if you want to push 220kw you'll need all of those things anyway. Performance cars are not cheap, if you wanted a 200kw+ car you should sell it and buy one, it will never be cheap doing it yourself. That is what I did, traded in my 150kw R31 for $9k and got a 240kw R32 with a forged rb25 for 12k, only cost me $4k by the time I got it on the road, imagine if I tried to do it from scratch, would have cost $20k+!! edit: If its auto then that explains the lower power. Also the slipping feeling, do the revs flare up like a slipping clutch or does it just lose power? could be the typical coil packs giving in and causing the annoying as all hell stutter and misfire.

Insurers can only void the claim if it contributed to the accident. Eg you put a 1000hp supercharged v8 in your skyline and you tbone someone at a traffic light because you are a tard, unless the engine caused the accident (it didnt) they can't void your claim.

read my post

yeah, you can still have fairly acceptable EGTs and be well out of the efficiency zone a lot of the time though which was sort of what I was trying to say. sure the turbo is putting excess heat into the intake charge but it is still scavenging energy out the exhaust so its still being more efficient mechanically than an NA vehicle, but you are right, it is a nicer option to have temps etc all well under control so you can drive it around on a 35c day without issue.

wasn't the buiding it was the carpark.

No I am not subscribed to it, I can see click the watch button and pick a subscription option, there was also another thread this happened with, some DIY thread in a forum I had never even viewed. I can do a screen dump if that helps. Sorry if my replies are late, no subscriptions means I only check it occasionally lol. edit: Im assuming Delayed notification is the same as instant notification, as in I won't get as many emails but I should still get most? I might go change them all to instant and see what happens. Also the emails were about the topic being posted, not about a reply, I'm assuming I've been wrongly subscribed to the actual DIY forum, but I can't even find how you do that. http://www.skylinesa...-axxo-releases/ However there has been no replies in that thread, it just linked me to the first post, very very strange Email said: paulr33 has just posted a new topic entitled "Rip Dvd Movies Into Xvid High Quality (Like Axxo Releases)" in forum "Tutorials / DIY / FAQ". and PM-R33 has just posted a new topic entitled "Diy: Carbon Fibre S2 Foglight/indicator Surrounds Install" in forum "Tutorials / DIY / FAQ". edit 2: I was indeed subscribed to the DIY forum for some very strange reason, I have since removed it. Odd that I get emails for that and not the other topics though, any ideas? edit3: changing all topics to instant notification seems to have fixed it, I have only had one email since then, but I'm assuming its working now. So everyone else, go change all notifcations to instant, I suspect it is something to do with leaving the site still logged in, it assumes you are still active on the site.

Now I understand the principle fairly well of surge slots, I am also aware that they do in fact work so it is my understanding that is lacking. From what I understand they basically leak air back out the compressor into the intake, so under high pressure (surge) instead of the blades skipping on the air as the engine cannot ingest anymore air, it just flows back into the intake much like a recirc bov. Now at low rpm when surge happens this makes perfect sense and I can see how it works, however my question is at higher rpm when the engine is well out of the surge zone and it can in fact ingest all the air, what stops the air from being leaked out the holes back into the intake again? The intake (pre turbo) is ALWAYS under vacuum so the path of least resistance is always going to be to go back out the surge slots, what stops it happening at higher rpm and basically just wasting half the compressors flow? Is it because at high rpm the surge holes can only flow so much air so a static amount of air is wasted (recirculated) at all rpms or is there something more fancy going on? Also how much flow do they waste at high rpm, is it a tiny amount, or does it visually change the flow map of the turbocharger? Look forward to see if anyone can explain it.

I just got an email notification for this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/337956-carbon-fibre-s2-front-foglightindicator-surrounds-group-buy/ wtf? Ive never read it in my entire life!

Most will only make around 110-120kw stock, exhaust and boost with no tune will see 140-150 sometimes. it is just a number mate, get over it seriously, I REALLY doubt it drives any different to these '190kw' versions. Is it currently fast enough? If so then who cares? If not then start upgrading? A dyno is a tuning tool, nothing else.

for you yes, but not for me, hence something is broken.

lol im not that silly, I got an email notification for a thread I didn't even view or know existed, really bizarre, and I got one for a thread that someone posted in a week ago and thats it, zero notifications apart from that. it is seriously broken, it should either work or not, not send me random notifications for a thread I didn't view, and send me a single other one, surely other people are experiencing this?

it is still cheaper and wont be a hack, there is no good reason to do it at all.

ah ok, I thought he was adjusting it 10degrees from when it was already in the correct position.

it is still not optimal, for 300kw you are better off getting a smaller turbo, more lag for no good reason.