Rolls

try setting them all to instant notification, all the others dont work for me.

So we need a 1.5" exhaust for 150kw??

No there aren't.

you will make ~190kw with the stock turbo max.

One bad thing I've seen with methanol is it burns with almost invisible flames, though E85 could be the same. All those burnout cars that run it seem to set their tyres and half the track alight though. I also saw an evo with big cams shooting 1m flames on the overrun after it supposedly had been tuned, whether this was the car or the fuel I do not know. Anyone know more ?

The only way to know would be to strip it down which kind of defeats the purpose. Who knows it could have been slapped together on the grass in someone's back yard with all the tolerances wrong and it might last a week, it could have had everything done perfectly at a shop and then run with no oil, or everything could be fine and it could last 100,000kms?

wut? the cooler goes on the exhaust side? Man I've been doing it wrong all this time

throw it in the bin and get a nistune installed + tuned, you will never look back.

Sell the car and buy one with 270kw, it'll cost you a couple of grand max, doing it yourself will cost $5-6k on the cheap and then stuff goes bust and there are hidden costs, probably be more like $10k once youve fixed all the broken stuff and got it 100% how you want. You could end up with a brand new forged engine, turbo, suspension blah blah for only $2-3k if you just sell it and buy someone else's money pit.

My point was it cost as much as a built 25/26/30. The block size doesn't magically make them cost less.

Some people would describe this as the definition of stupid. Being different is great when it results in something better, but being different for the sake of being different and ending up with something worse is just silly.

you are right I don't have to, because financially and time wise there isn't a single reason why it makes sense. swapping in a 25 each season would be cheaper, make more power and require less work. Or for the same amount of money and work you did you cold have just build an rb25/26/30 etc in the first place and had the best of both worlds.

whoops

Love your videos as well haha

but its still less than a stock 25 lol

probably starts to crack the gate but no way 26psi haha, I'd say 15 ish absolute max.

I never understood it, for the cost you could get an rb26 and put new pistons and refresh it with basically standard turbos with steel wheels, more power, response and its a 26!

How much power is it currently making on how much boost? E85 could be something to consider if you want to run more boost but I suspect with stock pistons etc you don't want to. Personally I'd fork out for some good semi slicks, suspension bushes and then go enjoy it, looks like a perfect engine combo for some track work and as a street car. Either do this or just leave it as is and save the cash, no real need to spend anything else on it.

Being as there isn't a single before/after dyno sheet available and a tuner says not to, I'm going to go with no a well.

What I was getting at is the standard loom should provide dedicated reliable power to those things at all times, if it doesn't then it means the wiring is faulty, they wouldn't have designed a loom that doesn't power ignition properly under all circumstance, hence adding a relay doesn't improve the situation, unless of course the loom is faulty in which case I think it is a bandaid solution and the loom should be fixed.

Are the plugs old? Could have been sitting in oil/fuel/water all that time for whatever reason fouling them. Though if it was oil or water you probably have bigger issues, possible a very very small leak could have covered them in that time though. Also if it was very hard to start first time you could have fouled them running rich. Definitely sounds like a spark issue, I'd look at new properly gapped (0.8mm) plugs first, if the coils are new this shouldn't be an issue, next is is there water in the valley? condensation on any of the ignition components? edit: If the intercooler hose blew it probably ran rich as shit fouling the plugs. The other thing is are you sure you fixed it properly? As a boost leak causes similar symptoms, stalling, missing, blowing dickloads of black smoke when going on to boost.

If the loom is rated to the required current draw there should be no need for these, if there is a voltage drop it suggests the loom is damaged or old and a relay is just a bandaid fix anyway, however most people are using old stock looms so there is probably a benefit in using them here. If you are wiring it all up from scratch just use the correct guage wire and don't bother though.

My highflow rb20 turbo makes 13-14psi by redline in first on my rb25, the stock turbo easily makes the 10psi by redline, I have seen it many many times in my old rb20. The issue here is your actuator but beed valves are generally crap and I recommend either using nothing as you'll get 10psi fairly easily off the spring with an rb20 actuator and a 3" exhaust, or get an electronic bleed valve. The fact you are making less boost than with nothing indicates your waste gate spring is probably not tensioned correctly or there is an issue with it, if you stuff up the install of a boost controller it usually results in infinite boost, not less than the spring boost. Have you installed an rb20 actuator? If not look into it as your actuator is probably the issue here, did it do this before? In my experience is the bleed valves just cause the boost to spike or don't do anything, on larger turbos they work better as they are slower to respond and easier to control. No you don't it shows there is an issue with something else, a bleed valve can only increase boost from the base spring pressure which should be at least 8psi, 10-12psi if using an rb20 actuator. If you are getting less than this, it indicates the actuator is opening too early for some reason, hence the slow boost build, having a controller on there just masks this. If you remove the controller it probably only makes 2psi in every gear, shows there is something definitely wrong.

250kw is the sweet spot in a street car for retaining almost stock response but making twice bucket loads more power.

lol he is obviously trolling