Rolls

it wont kill the turbo, lots of cars came from the factory without a bov at all and many high hp high boost cars dont run them either, even F1 cars pushing 50psi didn't run them. Not saying you shouldn't run one (lots of good reasons for recirc) but it wont kill the turbo.

a rwc is completely different to a defect, if it gets defected there is no way you'll get passed unless it is all returned to stock, ecu, injectors, fuel reg everything.

If they catch you doing a burnout they will just make something up to get you defected, they don't really need any evidence at all and when you go through the defect inspection they will find the turbo installation, guaranteed. Just keep this in mind that if you get it defected you'll have to take it all out and return to stock, or buy another car and transplant it. I doubt engineering it to be legal would be cheap or easy.

Call a workshop and find out if it is worth it, everyone's rates are going to be different.

The R33 computer cannot have a nistune module put in it, hence you need a Z32 computer (300zx) and then have it wired in and fitted, or you need an R32 rb20det ecu, however the r32 computer cannot control your VCT (variable cam timing) which you really do not want to go without, however you can use an eboost street to control the VCT as you said you needed an EBC anyway. Email nistune and ask who they recommend in your area to fit and tune a nistune module into an ecu, they will then be able to tell you if they prefer the Z32 ecu or the r32 computer, personally I would just get which ever one is cheaper and get the eboost street either way. Should be able to get an ECU for $100-200, then get the nistune fitted for $300 and wired in I would say would be around $200 depending on what sensors need to be replaced to get it running as they don't just simply plug into the loom. Usually need a series 1 throttle position sensor, if you have a series 2 R33 then you might need ignitor modules etc as well. Either way find out who can do the work for you and call them to ask what they recommend, they might have a second hand power fc that is cheaper than going down the nistune route, however it will never pass an inspection and does not look stock, advantage is it is plug and play.

The metal pipe intake mod should actually increase the boost if anything, not decrease it, at that low boost level though it would probably not do much. I've heard of people spraying something in the intake to see where leaks are but I am not really sure how they do it. Apart from putting all new clamps on and checking all joiners there isn't much you can do without a dyno, imo you don't have a boost leak, it is just fairly normal variance.

block the bov off with a piece of coke can and see what happens, you'll get annoying as f**k flutter but if it gets rid of the sound you are talking about then it means it is the bov failing.

put it on 10psi and see what happens, it is highly likely it'll get fuel cut, run too rich and misfire and not make much more power, it might be ok though. Ultimately you want a z32 computer with a nistune or an r32 computer with nistune and get an ebc like eboost street to control the VCT as the r32 computer can't do that, all of these will be ~$1k including a tune installed give or take a bit. Other option is power fc etc which will not pass an inspection if you get defected, up to you. Personally I'd do it once and do it properly and get the nistune, no inspector will be the wiser as it'll have a nissan badge on it.

put it on a dyno and stick your head in the engine bay, you'll be able to see it is running way too rich as well.

The other option is just troll the for sale section for a motor for sale, sometimes you see almost finished builds up with a reasonable discount, could save a lot of time and some money.

I used to see up to 2psi variance on a cold night vs a warm day on my rb20det with stock turbo. Can always tweak the ebc settings to get two settings like mentioned. Boost leak almost always results in clouds of black smoke and a whistle.

I know I have one, but they aren't magic.

not if the spring is not strong enough and the gate is blowing open.

what turbo is that? looks gigantic

how is the standard motor holding up to that kind of abuse without shitting something? certainly a nice looking power curve though, didn't expect the power to keep rising at rpm like that with stock head/cams! it is one of the most annoying things ever, it is even more annoying when people say it in real life.

which is why a lot of companies don't offer warranty on their motors, doesn't exactly inspire confidence.

"When it pinged, apparently it was doing it slightly and not badly. It had loads of fuel going in so the pistons wouldn't melt at leas" I thought you were implying it was still pinging, my bad.

you could certainly do it, balancing shouldn't be too expensive but I would enquire at a turbo shop before doing it, there could be more damage you don't know about which would make it a waste of money.

I have always wondered why we don't see these in the form of garret performance turbos that we can purchase. I know they do make them, but I have never seen an aftermarket one for sale. edit: After some reading apparently the issue is they don't run a wastegate causing excessive back pressure at high revs, great for a factory car but not so great for a performance race car. I'm sure you could adapt a wastegate with one but controlling the vayne and the wastegate to control boost would be very difficult, you couldn't just do it by trial and error, you'd need to have someone work out the maths before hand, I believe porsche is the only company that has successfully done this so far.

Heat soak is where everything in the engine bay (intercooler included) gets soaked with heat, basically means the intake air is much hotter than it should be and everything is just generally very hot, this will be the conditions that causing pinging if it is going to ping, it is the best way to test your tune is safe. If he gave the car back to you with a tune that was pinging even slightly then he hasn't done his job, even small amounts of detonation are bad and will cause damage over time, not to mention the hotter the weather and the worse the fuel the more it will ping. It is very hard to know who to trust when it comes to tuners, basically I won't go with anyone unless I can sit in the car during the process and see what they are doing, anything less just won't leave me with confidence.

It was a 3k excess for insurance so no point claiming, and it cost a total of $0 to fix it myself, just 12 hours of labour.

FMIC is a fantastic upgrade and I highly recommend it, coils are around $3-400 for an aftermarket or stock set, the aftermarket ones are no better than stock from what ive read, just new obviously so they dont shit themselves. if the tune has been sorted properly you should be able to get massive heat soak on a 35c day and not have it ping, if it does ping then the ignition coolant temp trim tables are not set up and nor are the knock maps, if you get it dyno tuned I recommend getting it really hot , run it with the fan off even and get the knock ears on it, it'll totally kill the power but it will tell if its pinging or not, if it is pull more timing or set up the trim tables correctly. will save your motor if you thrash it on a hot day. gapping the plugs down to 0.8 can fix misfiring if the coils are borderline, it is recommended to try this first, when you change them check the coils for arcing and discolouration from overheating, a tell tale sign they stuffed, also you can get 0.8 gapped out of the packet if you ask for the right plugs.

That is certainly interesting information R32 tt, thanks for the post.

had any more ideas about suppressing the noise the charger makes?

If the coil packs are the originals then they almost certainly are on there way out even if they look perfect, pretty much all of them shit themselves especially in hot weather. It would certainly be a worthwhile upgrade for the future, hesitation is almost always the coil packs giving a poor spark or missing completely. I assume its around 4500-5500 rpm? as this is peak torque and where it will happen.