Rolls

I thought the stock VCT was just a solenoid on the left which interacts with the head, didn't think it did anything with the cam gear. I also thought it was on the exhaust cam only, but could be completely wrong. Reason I ask is there are full adjustable (change based on rpm) cam gears that look similar to what is on his intake cam, they are around $3000 though from what I've seen, fairly complex piece of hardware.

What's the strange looking cam gear on the intake cam?

actually ive got a spare one you can have $50 + post and its yours. green label one

lol at microlebs, seriously them and V400 wolf 3ds are a downgrade from the stock ecu, less injector drivers and less features

sounds like air flow meter, possibly dodgy connection, the fact you get no error codes is weird though, however I had a dead O2 sensor, read 0v all the time but it didn't ever show the error code in consult.

Get the eboost street as it can control the VCT which I am pretty sure the power FC can't. VCT is essential and makes a massive difference.

So no benefit at all with stock cams?

I think he meant dry, in the wet everyone spins their tyres

I bet he gets sweet intake temps though, probably keeps exhaust temsp down slightly aswell, all it needs is a huge trumpet for the ram effect and I bet it actually makes a big difference.

Ive run an rb20 box with a 25 with 240kw and semi slicks, provided you granny shift it it should last fine, mine isn't making any weird noises yet. Sounds like it will be a very nice setup though also whilst you are making the weight distribution worse, is it really that much worse? does having a much nicer motor offset the difference in 'fun' the car is? It isn't like he is making a time attack car.

I've seen that racepace rb29, it has a better power curve than some 6L v8s masterpiece.

gets the chicks bro

What is it like driving a car that takes until 5k before the power really kicks hard? Is it annoying on the street or is there still plenty of meat below 5k? Looks like a solid 200kw at 4k, does it feel good at the lower revs?

I've heard the theory that with ceramic cats the honeycomb isn't welded inside it is just held in place by the case, this over time causes them to move slightly, then slightly more, then rattle and crack and hence collapse, where as with metal cats they are welded in place and this cannot happen. Perhaps this is the reason that whilst ceramic is more robust, they fail easier and earlier than metal ones.

Thanks for the post, I did not know it was the expoxy that failed in the turbos along with expansion, cheers for clearing that up. Re the cats melting, all I was getting at is they fail, I am still unsure why though as ceramic is meant to be harder, stronger and able to withstand higher temps. Perhaps it is the expansion in the ceramic cats that causes them to fracture and collapse.

I think the amount of stock ceramic turbo wheels vs the amount of steel turbo wheels that end up in the cat is good evidence that it is not. Why this is I do not know, you are correct ceramic is meant to be tougher and withstand higher temperatures, perhaps it degrades faster over time and steel does not? Maybe it is more brittle and cracks easier. edit: apparently ceramic is cheaper and hence tends to be used in much cheaper manufacturing processes with more flaws which is why they are generally worse, if they were made to the same standard as the expensive steel ones they would perform better, at least that's what the reading I just did told me. Are all the melted ones we see stock cats? or are we seeing aftermarket ceramic ones melt as well?

Sounds like the typical too much boost with stock tune blowing out spark with old aged coil packs. Two issues, one the spark is weak due to old coilpacks and two the engine is running very rich (rich retarded upper quadrant of stock map often called R&R) making blowing out a spark even easier. New coilpacks will often fix the problem, or only make it slightly better, a full remap with a nistune or aftermarket ECU will fix the problem completely, add more power and increase fuel economy. Other faulty sensors such as AFM, O2 sensor etc that can make the car run even richer can also make the problem worse. Sounds like you have a little from all areas, good to hear you fixed it!

Just thought I'd report back, I had a jammed vent so my ac was barely blowing at all, fixed that and it is ridiculously cold now, have to turn it down unless it is a 30+ degree day. definitely recommend.

Maybe the extra timing was making the knock map cut in? Or maybe it was just hitting richer and more retarded maps due to it for some reason, certainly sounds odd,you would think extra timing would make it perform better and get better fuel economy.

everyone wants a fix but no one is willing to datalog, it is simple and should show the problem.

ah yep afm will definitely do that, only prob is it will require a full retune from scratch, personally I would have waited, only $300 extra and a tune is what $500+ ?

More likely the hot weather lol perhaps it has gone to the knock map? time to call your tuner

should be able to run 18psi and make 240+ unless you have stock injectors holding you back

if it is the issue and it makes 50kw more itll be fine to give it a squirt in 1st gear once, bugger all load so you wont really experience any detonation etc, just give it enough of a squirt to see if it did make a difference, if so off to the tuners again. I'm thinking melted cat is the most likely problem.

of course hence you'd probably see ranges from 200-240kw but 185 is very very low, was it running massive boost with a small turbo and 10:1 afrs or something?