Rolls

What intercooler? Could you have a boost leak or exhaust leak anywhere?

It is more than 500rpm laggier than the same turbo engine combo on other machines, I suspect there is an issue somewhere and going to a GT30 will just replicate the same problem. I doubt it is the turbo and suspect something else in your system, intake sucking shut, standard intercooler? restrictive exhaust? something along those lines Also 11.5:1 isn't that rich, nice and safe for high revs and high boost.

you sure you aren't talking about an rb20? they max around 200 or lower but rb25 injectors will do 220kw+ every single day

highflow looks stock, makes the power required and is the cheapest go for gold

With the extra noise from things like valve train and rattling clutches etc, I always though by using your bandpass filter centred at ~6.6khz or whatever value you are using it should pretty much drop all other noise? Or is the problem that these noises are broad spectrum and add noise in the 6.6khz range as well?

Email them themselves, they would be able to give you information towards the better tuners up your way.

I've heard that if you lean the idle right out to 16:1 etc it makes it lope even crazier.

yeah its a bit hit and miss, it might run, might clog something and then its all over though. a good clean out of the fuel system should fix it up.

Done and done, thanks guys!

What spring rates are the coil overs and what tyres+rim combo you using? If you are using typical jap drift 8kg bullshit on aussie roads and nankangs 215s stretched on 9" rims then its going to spin with 100kw. I've got 240kw and I can put it down in 1st gear with minimal spin, using fairly soft 4.5kg springs (not 'coilovers'), and 235 federal 595 evo tyres on 9" rims If your bushes or hicas rods are stuffed and you are getting weird dynamic toe then this will make it sloppy and kick the rear out a lot as well, test the rear wheels for play, will also show up as tramp and horrible vibrations if it is the hicas rods, at least it did with me.

So my O2 sensor reads 0v at all times and I'm getting weird AFRs, up to 18:1 at idle making it pop but drops as low as 12:1 on cruise, tune has been looked at and is fine, going to replace the O2 then get it on the dyno and make sure everything is going smoothly anyway. Now I have an rb25det with a rb20det computer, I'm assuming they probably are the same sensor between everything from R31s to R34s but just in case I will get the one for the r32 rb20det. So brands, dealers etc, who makes ones that are the same fitting as stock and similar voltage scale eg 0-1v? and who should I contact to buy one? I would call all the usual places but I don't trust them to do anything other than read a book, would like to hear from someone who actually knows what a direct replacement is. Ultimately would like a stock plug as I can't really be bothered wiring a new one up, but if I have to I will. Help much appreciated.

Just did a road tune with Pete from the Nistune guys last night, very friendly knowledgeable guy, was great to chat to! It was a hot night around 31c which was good as that is probably the hottest weather I am going to push the car hard in, with his big knock ears found it getting a bit out of control around peak torque (5500rpm) in 3rd gear runs so pulled around 2-3degrees around that part of the map, car pulls identically but he said there was nothing he could hear afterwards, should be even better in the colder weather. On boost was around 11:1 so now that I can be confident if it doesn't knock at full load on 18psi in 30c then it shouldn't knock ever so I'm going to head out to mallala soon. Found out my O2 sensor is dead so it was idling around 17:1 and around 15:1 on cruise at times, but would fluctuate down to 11:1 due to lack of O2 feedback so hopefully that will fix my poppy idle (too lean) and bad fuel economy (too rich), will put it on the dyno to see if it throws out the map once it is functioning. Overall it looks like shaun from boostworx did a pretty good job, was originally tuned in cold weather and Pete reckons the knock he heard would have been impossible to detect on the dyno, due to different temp and loads. Not sure if the O2 was functioning when it was originally tuned, would have hoped that shaun would have picked that up but it is entirely possible it has died since then. Still have a weird issue where in semi cold weather (car been sitting for 8 hours, any less or more and it doesn't do it) and it sits on 5 degrees timing until it warms up, makes it quite difficult to drive, being as there is about 8 correction maps it could be jumping to we weren't able to pinpoint that problem but such is tuning! Highly recommend people get a road tune done after they've got their base map under control especially with someone sitting next to you who knows their stuff, even if they find the map is perfect it just leaves you with so much more confidence that the car is running safely and properly. Thanks Status for the suggestion! edit: Pete mentioned that the way the ecu reports knock is complicated and hard to use so they haven't even got their software able to log it vs cells yet, might be something that they crack in the future though.

uh 12 months old fuel will definitely do it man at my mates work they had a Lamborghini on the show room for 2 years, fuel had turned to an almost jelly by then, the fuel absorbs water from the atmosphere and it will be about half the octane rating after that amount of time. Change the fuel filter, drain the fuel tank and crank it again.

Ah fair enough, I assumed it was an off the shelf chip like those crappy mines ecus.

Clogged injectors? My mates VH41 that we started in the halfcut mananged to have 8 100% blocked injectors after a few months sitting.

yeah you could pull the whole exhaust off and all that would happen is it would run a bit more boost and run a bit richer and more retarded timing.

no it won't, the regulator handles flow/pressure, stock pump or 20x600hp pumps, it is still going to operate exactly the same. exactly, it is only the regulator that will have an effect on AFRs Or just don't use a shit chipped ECU and tune it properly? all the backyard tuning in this thread makes baby jesus cry Far more likely the temp correction isn't good enough and the dyno ramp rate does not match the load curves you get with the gears on the road hence different load cells are hit and different afrs.

whats the pump got to do with AFRs? If it is flowing for the power level why would you change them?

What is the rpm spread of where it hits peak boost to where the power run stops? Looks very nice as a graph, but lack of rpm means it could be from 3.5-5.5 or 4-8

sounds like all that happens is you get lots of boost/fuel blown out the exhaust ports at low revs and high revs its only slightly better from what I've read. I would put money that the average power has actually gone down.

How has the power delivery changed?

Is it as simple as getting a custom made bearing core that is just simply bigger and has more cooling capacity?

Oh, I thought it was the bearing cartridge.

Would increasing water/oil flow to the turbos do much for extending their cooling ability?

Interesting to know that E85 has higher EGTs, the fact that it can resist knock a lot more made me think it was the same or lower, is the extra ignition due to its equivalent octane rating instead?