Rolls

How much does changing the cams effect the fuel economy for street driving? Are we talking a 5% increase, 50% .. etc?

this what afrs are you running? Possible to get a dyno sheet with afrs etc?

if it is rebuilt it will

looks awesome but dont change the diff, if you are spinning the wheels just get some semi slicks and youll never look back, the lower the diff ratios the better as it = more tractive torque at the wheels at pretty much every speed. engine noise is very loud, doesn't sound normal, my mate has a vh41 that wasn't anywhere near that loud, is it possible the valve train is all gummed up with oil?

below 200kw the difference isn't that much, but when you get closer to 250kw the difference is massive, drive both and you will see what I mean, an rb25 making 250kw has more punch down low than a stock rb20, it really is night and day.

I'm 23 and my car is worth at least $15k and I still only have third party, I figure if I write it off I'm f**ked either way, I've saved almost $15k in insurance fees over those years from only having 3rd party so I am considering getting it now, but until now it just hasn't been worth it. Whatever you do make sure you have third party though, hit a new BMW and you'll be declaring bankruptcy and putting off buying a house until you are 35.

You could get a skyline with a CA18i in Japan, yes thats right, a 1.8 litre SINGLE CAM. No idea why anyone would get it, but I have seen photo evidence of such a beast. Regarding the oil problem all you can really do is overfill the engine slightly, I believe that the higher and softer the suspension the worse it is as well (more weight shift). edit: The car is a R32 GXi and it makes 68kw at the fly, f**king woeful. edit2: Its not even proper injection, its single point tb injection ahaha

get a 25 you will never look back, it is sooo different to drive, more low down power, can make more power before getting laggy and even then you still have more off boost capacity so it isn't as bad. VCT is a godsend and makes it so much nicer to drive as well, I would never ever get an rb20 again, they sound amazing but that is it, I think I'd go an SR20 before an RB20. Ive had 2 rb20s and 1 rb25 with a highflow turbo and the difference is night and day. If you have an R32 you can reuse half the stuff anyway, intake etc, use the rb20 ecu and get a nistune module, eboost street so you can retain the VCT and you can use all the old sensors, means you don't need a half cut, just the raw motor, might need to change a few things like throttle body but that is it.

So a full slick would only rate 10% better than a plain old KU31? Poor ratings imo, not a bad tyre but the ratings do not reflect its performance against other tyres accurately.

Very interested to see the mode of failure when it does go, could you post a thread up for all of us to see if (when) it does fail?

How long do you think that will last?

the wonders of private messaging.

whups double post

Can I suggest that everyone avoids this workshop from now on? Pretty massive difference, it isn't like they made the same power and one was just slightly smoother and had better fuel economy, thats 60 bloody kw and 190 knock! Incompetence comes to mind, can I suggest that nobody ever goes to this workshop for anything?

Federal 595 RS-R semi-semi slick 215x45x17 got two delivered for $350 absolutely brilliant even when cold, when hot the grip is phenomenal. federal 595 EVO, also brilliant, not as much heat required for them to stick but they put down 240kw in first gear fairly well barely spin at all 235x45x17 two delivered for $140 each I think easily worth the price premium, go to option1garage to get them, no one else even comes close in price

Good call skylinecouple, I'm in the process of getting my tuned checked over by the manafacturers of nistune and learning how to do it in the process, only way to have complete confidence it has been done properly is to do it yourself, or be present during the entire tuning process and understand what they are doing.

how accurate is solidworks for cfd analysis? it is generally pretty good for everything else, never heard any reports on the flow stuff though.

Managed to get hold of pete from nistune, going to have a session with him and get him to show me around nistune and tuning in general whilst getting him to check everything over, thanks for the suggestion status. Might ask if he can explain how nistune reports knock and how their protocol extension for consult works, if it is like the rest of consult it shouldnt be too hard to write my own program to pull the data out, if the data is easily made visible via consult I will give it a shot and post it up here for people, will report back.

Oh I meant similar to how the stock bovs operate, how they leak on idle and very low load, if you could tweak it so they leaked on slightly higher load (10% throttle) to give a feedback effect similar to the anti surge slots, this way you could tune it to suit so that you dont waste too much energy with air recirculating, but also achieve the anti surge effect.

would a bov (plumb back) that leaks at idle/low throttle basically perform the same thing?

it does sound cool however

Pretty sure the form is the same whether or not it is regency or police station, so he probably didnt even read the box, or if he did he didn't care.

lol 300hp at 2000rpm, that is absolutely ridiculous, specs on motor? supercharged v8?

Don't have a working multimeter so can't confirm the current draw, just use a relay if in doubt and that way you will have no issues, only something like 10 or 20 ms lag switching on a relay so no issues there. fair sure the part is a bosch water temp sender plug, any auto electrician should stock it as it is a common part, just ask to try it then and there, cost me $20 as it is a fairly fancy plug with retainer clip.

and we do a full circle and come back to my original point that power is what is important and torque can basically be disregarded... lol good post btw, it makes perfect sense to me and basically mirrors what Im thinking in my head, dunno how everyone else is going, I spent the last two days thinking about this bs in every spare second (no exageration) to try and understand it properly, the joys of being a geek you can't leave anything until you understand it 100%. the simplest example for everyone that is still confused is the CVT example, one with lots of torque, one with less torque but more hp, if geared to always be at peak hp the car with more hp will ALWAYS accelerate faster to any given speed. The reason being is the one with more hp means it makes torque at higher rpm hence it can use lower gear ratios at equivalent speeds of the other engine, lower ratios mean more multiplication and more tractive torque at the wheels hence faster. I might still do the graph in excel to prove this tomorrow if I can be assed.