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Rolls

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Everything posted by Rolls

  1. If you want to lean on it more the smaller rear housing should make up to 300kw on decent boost. Personally I think you should always go the smallest housing/turbo that will make your power goals and be close to maxing it out, you'll get slightly more intake heat but response is key for a street car.
  2. why large displacement? surely the new commodores and falcons are built to tighter tolerances than our skylines anyway?
  3. One good reason to stay the 20 is the unbelievably sexy exhaust note, best of any RBs I've ever heard.
  4. Budget another $8k to build the motor when it goes pop, could last ages, could pop not long after especially if the tune isn't 100%
  5. In my opinion there a turbo suited to 250kw street driving on an rb20 does not exist. Looks pretty good for a 20 but I am still sceptical of the transient response compared to the equivalent on an rb25, plus with a 25 you have VCT with makes low throttle low rev driving very very nice.
  6. 250kw rb20s are a dog to drive, don't waste your money you will just get frustrated and be annoyed if its a street car.
  7. save the money and buy an rb25, or better yet save your money and buy an already modded 32 with a 25 or a gtr. be the best decision you ever made financially, also you'll get a faster car quicker than if you try and do it yourself.
  8. Good point if you are locked into rpm. Surely you could set up the bottom axis as time though? I guess some of the old software is probably limiting but it would be a very simple calculation for the people who make it.
  9. Since when does this ever happen?
  10. Yeah that is certainly an issue, really doubt it is what is happening here but it means on boost your crank case is getting pressurised, will cause excessive blow by and could blow your dip stick out if tracking the car. You should get that stock hose on the right had side cam breather shown in the other setup, and connect it back into the intake on the right where its been blocked off.
  11. I think a great way to show response on a dyno would be to hold the revs at 5000 then plant it, surely that would give some indication of response?
  12. search the forums loads for sale
  13. Get hold of a consult cable and use nistune or ecutalk and look at the O2 voltages, then check the coolant temp readings as well, might be a stuffed temp sensor meaning it is always running in cold start enrichment mode.
  14. sounds like the fuel reg or the boost guage line. any vac leak will make it run like shit though, look harder, you'll find it eventually.
  15. Read my post.
  16. lol all the good stuff is made from the most toxic to human chemicals possible.
  17. Have to wait until the turbo is replaced and see.
  18. 35psi from a T51R and it is only making 450hp wtf
  19. The most accurate models I've seen based on lots of data use a percentage loss + a fixed component, but even then it is only accurate for a certain range because as you said, you cant be making 3000hp and expect 20% drivetrain loss. Like a lot of models they are only accurate in a small range.
  20. If you retune a car after adding an atmo bov you can get rid of most of the backfiring and stalling, but with the stock tune it will never play nice. Eg the redtop rb20dets that had no bov, they get crazy reversion and don't backfire or stall.
  21. Because people are stupid and think they can do it for cheaper, reality is there is a reasonable chance the builder you pick will stuff it up.
  22. Can you add any more timing? means less exhaust energy and might make it spool slightly less and hence surge less.
  23. The rb25 will be better at everything, end of story. You can get similar power levels with identical supporting mods but the 25 will make a wider spread and come on boost quicker. It will also be quicker off boost.
  24. Why would you use an R31 lol, just buy a built GTR for $20k that already has a motor and everything done lol
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