Rolls

We have to do it in SA as well.

holds torque much longer and hence power doesn't dive over early like your other results, looks like the best result I've seen yet, on full song by 4k as well so not that laggy either for the power.

Wire the afm up via a relay to the ignitor ground or something, car will still crank but won't start, I've seen people do it before including a whole fake loom for the ecu lol.

Why does it have to be AFM less? Cause that along with ECU will definitely fail an inspection, if you aren't worried then sure, but personally I would stress about it everyday if it was my car.

Ok thanks for that, I will call them tomorrow.

So for $120 you gave them a new barrel and key or you just supplied the key and they set up a new barrel for you to suit? Just trying to figure out how much I am up for, also by nissan service agent you mean like the spare parts/dealer places? Cheers for the reply!

http://www.infrastru...n/vsb_ncop.aspx This is what you are after, it covers everything all the relevant ADR codes which you can manually look up etc, this is what they use at regency when approving modified vehicles. I can guarantee you 100% that your mods are not passable and if you do pass it is because the inspector is lenient and has let you off, this does happen but only for minor things, try and go through with an aftermarket fuel rail and you will never pass. I did an engine swap and filled out all the required paper work, had emissions test etc and I still had 3 guys simultaneously going over the entire engine bay, they even questioned the turbo as it had been rebuild and was sandblasted whilst everything else was dirty, they followed every vac line, checked the injectors, the colour of the label on the AFM to see if it was a Z32 absolutely everything, I am fairly sure they have 'skyline' inspectors lol, he even pulled my ashtray out to see if I was hiding any boost controller etc in there. You specifically want to check out the engine one:http://www.infrastru...1jan2011_v3.pdf

I'm having trouble finding the phillips screw on the back of the barrel, can't really see anything so just going by feel, google image search wasn't much use either. Is it in the middle, left right anyone know? edit: found it, pricks stole my small screw driver set in the glove box though so I've got no bloody screwdrivers that will fit in the gap AND ITS 5PM SO NOTHING IS OPEN fml

You can change a turbo in 60 minutes? Rail is a modification to fuel injection system, instant fail there even if you use standard reg and injectors. Same goes for ECU, if the stock one isn't plugged in and visible, fail, if they suspect it they will unplug your AFM and see if it stalls, if it doesn't they will go looking for the ECU. You can get good inspectors and get lucky, but it has happened to people and if you want to be 100% ADR compliant you can't have those things, if you want them they will make you do a full spectrum emissions test, not just an idle one and that isn't cheap.

So my car was waiting to get towed and some pricks broke in, snapped the steering lock and stuffed the ignition barrel in the process (once the lock is snapped it disables the start position) then realised half my intercooler piping was in the car and there was no way it was going to start so they flogged the towing money. Now I'm sure I can locate an ignition barrel myself but I want to get it retooled so it takes the same key as my doors which will obviously involve a locksmith, I figure it is probably best to just go straight to them as it'll be cheaper if they do it all. Can anyone recommend a locksmith that does this kind of work?

Thanks for all the help everyone, muchly appreciated. 'luckily' my house mate has lost his license so I've registered his car and serviced it on the condition I can use it as a run about, a buggered 2.6L astron auto magna, so got plenty of time to sort this out, all the brake lights don't work though so I gonna prioritise fixing that first so I don't end up having an accident/fined by the cops as well next week.

Wires are all intact however when they snapped the steering lock it broke the pin in the barrel so you can put it on accessories etc but it won't let you turn it to start. What do you mean separate the back of the barrel with the ignition switch? As in take follow the wires to the plug and do it manually? Or pull it apart somehow? If there is some way I can get around replacing it that would be swell.

also does anyone know where I could find the pinout for the ignition barell? I can do it by trial and error with a multi meter but I diagram would save time. just tried the consult then and fault codes were CAS(12 starts) which was most likely when I twisted it by hand and tried starting it without it connected, cleared the code and will see what it says when I can figure out how to start it.

Update: Car was meant to be towed last night but he couldn't get there in time, anyway decided to go check it out with the consult cable with my mate, first I opened the bonnet and realised there was no longer a bonnet arm to hold it up, thought to myself weird why would anyone nick that. Anyway then I see broken scissors on the ground and the door luck looks bent, open the door and there is the bonnet arm, so someone bent the window with it, snapped the steering lock, f**ked the ignition barrel then the geniuses realised it wasn't going to start so they stole the $60 for the towing guy marked x TOWING COMPANY, either they are stupid or got spooked cause they left all my tools, gps and amp. So now I am going to have to replace ignition barrel and get it adjusted for old keys as well, sigh. I guess I can hotwire it in the time being to diagnose the actual fault. Anyone know where I can get a replacement ignition barrel/steering lock mechanism? I'm guessing it has to be brand new due to the special shear bolts it uses. Oh and to top it off the laptop went flat so we couldn't even check the consult, talk about kicking you when you are down.

Any electronics repair business should be able to solder you up a new connector, unless you snapped the actual physical plug itself, might be pretty hard to find a replacement, though any decent electronic technician could wire you up a different plug,

do the rims and tyre sizes match the tyre placard? if so you might be fine, depends how clued up and anal the operator is, personally I'd just get some stockies, lots of people here lend them out.

Car is still 8km away, gets towed here tomorrow so can't do anything until then, was planning on taking timing belt cover off to check the timing lines up as elite suggested, is this what you meant by cam cover? Will certainly drain a bit of oil. doubt there will be much evidence as it hasn't exactly run since this happened. Just out of curiosity what would happen if no oil got to the cam, would it seize and snap? or would something else happen first (I do not think this has happened, just curious). Also some extra info, the engine is only about 10,000kms old, forged pistons, rod bolts and new bearings, but it has always been noisy, think they were sloppy on tolerances as it gets a lot of piston slap, however a few people said it could be the lifters rattling? so providing the timing belt was done up properly to start with it shouldn't slacken off in just 10,000kms? Will definitely be checking it all though.

What I meant is it sounds like a car that has no spark or fuel when starting, but it does in fact have spark and I am fairly positive it has some fuel due to the symptoms below and the backfires. I am 100% I have spark and I can hear the fuel pump priming, feel pressure in the return lines, and can hear the injectors ticking but I cant be 100% it has pressure, will have to get hold of a gauge, I've never tested anything like that before so Im assuming I need some sort of inline pressure gauge but where do I put it, in between the fuel reg and rail? Car will be towed here some time tomorrow so will pull all the timing gear off on the weekend, check timing and also do a compression test. TB change? throttle body? I know the throttle at least is working as the pulsing in the exhaust gets louder when attempting to start. TB was changed about a year ago when I went nistune and was cleaned out and checked then.

yeah sounds like any other motor with no spark/fuel trying to start, didn't backfire at all today when I tried it with the cas. can't completely rule out fuel pump/fuel reg either, might be borderline dead. Whats the best way to test this, I don't have any guages etc, can I test flow by starting it with the return line in a bucket and measure how much comes out? or this going to be horribly inaccurate?

I took a bit of a gamble and started it again with the new cas, no luck so shut it off. Won't attempt to turn it over until I've got the timing confirmed and done a compression test now. Thanks for the advice simon and elite, can't be f**ked taking enough tools to take all the front shit off in my back pack so gonna tow it home and go from there. Worst case and I have smashed everything inside, what's a bare 25 block and head worth these days ~$1k ?

Ok so once I take the timing cover off how do I check they are aligned?

oh I didnt mean the forum rep, was just talking about people calling others idiots.

Ok thanks for that, compression test will certainly show that up if it is what has happened, will try and organise to get one in the next day.

I am actually thinking fuel reg, it makes weird noises when priming cold however we checked AFRs on 18psi for a long time on the dyno and they never once showed any signs of leaning, however is is possible that it went from fine to the diaphragm dying and having f**k all pressure. The weird backfires are making me think it is timing though. So order Im going to do things: Check for signs of head gasket Try new cas pull plugs and see if it spins really fast / compression test replace fuel reg somewhere in there I am going to get the consult on there, waiting for my mate to get back from interstate. bunno32gtr a consult cable lets you talk to the ECU via a laptop and you can pull error codes and check the values of basically all sensors. edit: really hope the battery still has some juice to turn over, cbf getting there and having to hail a random to come jump it.

Wouldnt piston and valve love make a horrible crunching sound and eventually seize? eg something I couldn't miss trying to turn it over 100x? First thing I will do when I get back is check coolant and oil for signs of headgasket, then try new cas, if no go I will arrange to get a compression tester off a mate, thanks for the offer but I'm over in SA. Appreciate all the suggestions everyone.