Rolls

So I've been doing some work on my skyline and it hasn't been on the road for a month or so now. Anyway the other day I was playing with the ECU and my keys fell out of my pocket (car wasn't running) and I managed to lock them in there. Now I realise the mods won't want any instructions on how to break into a skyline posted on this forum but I would love some help. Perhaps if anyone has any tips they could PM them to me? I'd rather not fork out for the RAA to come break in for me. I figure if I can get the boot open I can remove my sub and maybe get in that way, or perhaps try and jimmi the window down with some sort of hook. I'm hopefully putting my rebuilt turbo and brakes on this weekend and I obviously need to get the bonnet open, if I can't get the car open I'd like to be able to at least get this open, are there any ways to unlock the bonnet? Feel free to look through my posts to see that I do actually own an R32 skyline and I'm not trying anything dodgy. I am located in Adelaide so I would happily pay someone if they can do it substantially cheaper than the RAA would, number is <removed> if you have any spare time this weekend/next week.

Use a fully synthetic oil, castrol edge is a blend I'm fairly sure. Motul 8100 is good for the price, otherwise any of the other expensive fully synthetics listed in the first page will be suitable. If it is freshly built I would personally ask the builder though.

Thats good news, thanks.

Probably used if it has an expensive audio system in the car to keep the supply regulated.

I realise the rb25 turbo is bigger but by how much? The reason I ask is I have a gcg highflowed rb20 turbo which I was told was an rb25 one, it was originally on and is being put on an rb25. I realise the rear housing will be more restrictive making it boost earlier and run out of puff at higher rpm but how much difference is there in the a/r and housing sizes? Especially after they machine the housings out I imagine the difference would only be the a/r. 5% 10% 50% ? If anyone has compressor maps or actual specifications that would be fantastic.

Oh if you already have the intercooler then def stick with it, king springs are pretty awful, if you are going to go to the effort of changing them put something decent in. I assume you will be paying someone to do it and labour will be the bulk of the cost. As for shocks KYB aren't bad but you could get something better like koni or one of sydney kids bilstein packages for not much more. The ride quality and handling will be so much better. edit: Are those mods what you already have done? or you are looking at doing? edit2: I assume they are ones you already have. In that case yeah just look at a retune and an r34 rb25 turbo. If you do every plan on upgrading the susp then I'd look into the bilstein kits but as you already have them no biggie.

Read all the replies in this thread? If you want a budget 200rwkw get a r34 rb25 turbo, nistune, a r34 sidemount intercooler and full 3" exhaust. That will see you 180-200kw depending on the dyno and tune. All the other stuff you listed is just ricey mods you don't need. Also if you are going to do the suspension do it properly and get some decent gear in there.

Still for sale, open to offers.

Yeah I was going to say how did you do all the calculations for the size and shape of the counter weights and balance it?

Be interesting to see what numbers that program gives for a 3L and then overlay the power/torque curves on the same graph, give a nice visual representation of where in the rev range the gains will be had.

I wasn't spending any money with him, just getting an opinion. I've heard nothing but good things about him though. Shrug, neither of us are mech engineers that design turbos so at the end of the day you just have to make the best educated guess you can.

Once I get it I need money to get the car through regency and registered legally with the rb25, should be a weapon once its tuned though, hoping for a responsive 240-250kw Got a 9 seater 1980s 2L diesel van lined up for a runabout until then, should be pretty hilarious to drive around. Redline of 3k! wooooohooooo

Probably will get through with a numbers check as they will match up, however if you get a cluey officer and they notice that it is the bigger motor they may send you to regency, I'd say its a bit of a gamble, but not too much of one. Worst case you have to upgrade the brakes and get the car inspected, something you should be doing anyway. If the car is ridiculously modded I would think twice however.

The turbo did seize at one put so I imagine that would have caused severe overheating as I reved it to about 4 under-load as I wasn't sure what had happened. Could have been the cause of the blue scores. The exhaust wheel showed no signs of overheating though.

If you read the rest of the thread you would see that for the price I am paying nothing will come close, anything even similar will be an extra $500-700 in cost for no gain. If it took 2500kms for the turbo to fail it would have to have been an impossibly small imbalance, anything else would cause the turbo to shit itself almost immediately, it most likely would not have shown up on their machine, otherwise as you said their quality control would not have let it be sold. I personally believe that I just got unlucky, you don't hear theres stories very often.

No they said the cause was excessive EGTs, the turbo guy here in Adelaide said thats a load of shit and it is far more likely it was not balanced correctly. There is absolutely no way to prove that they are lying to me so I have to suck it up and pay. What would you do Kaido_RR ? I could ask for the turbo to be sent back, get an independent investigation to the failure, it will probably be inconclusive but leaning one way, I then have to take them to court and chances are I dont win, I burn my bridges and they will no longer deal with me. I am then left with nothing. Also the turbo is out of warranty, technically however if it is deemed an unreasonable failure I can still take them to court and get the repair for free, but then I have to prove that the turbo failure was 'unreasonable' even though it was out of its 12 month warranty. I can't prove the turbo wasn't used everyday for that period and that my 2500km claim is true. At least this way I get a new turbo with 12 month warranty for fairly cheap, I am still going to ask for the broken bits back though so I can get some sort of opinion on the mode of failure that is 100% un biased.

GCG said the would use new wheels so I think I will stick with that, interesting to know they can be repaired, personally I wouldn't risk it though.

Quite sure this is what caused the issue, it was running off centre due to it being out of balance, or the balancing weight drooping. So I imagine this is gone. So yeah thats $700 + $180 + $300 + rear wheel + assembly and freight >= $1200 Thanks for the offer though. edit: I've been advised that a blocked oil drain could cause the oil burning that I experienced but put down to poor sealing on the forged pistons, how would I check that the oil drain is not blocked and is working correctly? I plan to remove the line and check that it is not blocked, but how would I check that the actual drain into the block is not partially blocked?

If its getting 1.6L/minute of good uncontaminated oil at idle then surely oil can be ruled out? And yes I agree, I think this is definitely my cheapest option and from someone else's perspective a very good price, I am happy they aren't charging me labour as well. At the end of they day I got the car for a steal with $20k in receipts so although I'm coughing up for it now I will still come out further ahead than if I did all this work myself. Now as for when the turbo goes back on the car, to make sure I do not have a repeat episode what should I check? The cat and mufflers are not blocked, the oil and water supply appears clean and to flow sufficiently, the car will be getting a completely new tune from a different tuner. I will also request that they laser gun the dump pipe/housing to see what sort of temps it is getting. What else should I be checking?

Yeah I've already given them the go ahead but I'm going to ask for the bits back. You could honestly do new bearings, front + rear wheel, shaft and balancing for _a lot_ less than $1200? How much is a lot, and do you use the same parts? This is more out of curiosity as they have probably already started work on it. Both wheels have hit the housing but it was only for maybe 30 seconds under vac so the damage is minimal, however with something that spins at 150,000rpm I really doubt that you would risk re using it even after putting it on a balancing machine.

I can't be f**ked arguing with them, I could get it sent back, get bill to do a full inspection but then I would have to take them to court, I was hoping it was an installation error or something clear cut that I could get the workshop to pay for but if it was a balancing issue then because it seized (would have cooked everything when that happened) it probably has all the signs of excessive EGTs and Id just have my thumb up my bum for months. You love rubbing salt in peoples wounds don't you nismoid sure you are probably right most the time but you come across as a cynical cranky old man some times lol. I guess I could ask for all the damaged parts to be sent back with the new turbo, that would be a fair request wouldn't it? then I could get a third party specialist to examine the damage. In fact I think I will do that, not like they can re use the wheels, bent shaft and shagged bearings.

It won't be ball bearing though and if its good for 300 it will have bigger wheels so it will be laggier for two reasons. I liked the gcg one because it reached my target of 250kw and is ball bearing so has response almost as good as that of the stock turbo. I'd imagine that turbo wouldn't come on hard until 4k+ where as the gcg one comes on pretty strong by 3-3.5k. It is a street car so I want the smallest laggiest turbo possible for my target power. For $1200 nothing else is going to go to that, If I was starting from scratch I'd go pay bill at Adelaide turbo services $2k and get him to set me up one with garret wheels and bearing core in the standard housings. edit: I had a look at their website and a comparable turbo is this one: http://www.digi-hardware.com/tr28gt.html The G2 450hp model which is $1500 not including delivery or GST so it would be more like $1700+ and $1200 is already stretching my budget as I didn't plan on a turbo failure. I still need to get this thing tuned and through a regency inspection which is another good $700 I don't have.

Yes the VCT should be turned on from 1500-5000rpm, if you leave it on in high revs you will LOSE power not gain it. We are advancing the intake cam here. Using a shift light would be too slow an inaccurate, the easiest way to do it is with a small microprocessor. When I have time after uni, only a few weeks away I will be working on something which I will make available to people for this purpose. A relay would be far too slow to turn on and off at the speeds we need, you need to use a FET. http://www.national.com/mpf/LM/LM2917.html You would use two and set them up for the lower and upper rev limits and use two ADC channels on the PIC, I think this would be the simplest way to do it. I haven't looked at the datasheet in detail but it should be sufficient for the 10hz-8000hz signal we will be seeing. Does anyone know if the tacho signal is a square wave or a sine wave?

Spoke to the guy who originally looked at it (adelaide turbo services) and he said they it looked like nut on the front of the wheel had been ground all the way around and had huge chunks taken out of it which he said suggests they struggled to balance it in the first place, also at 8psi even with a blocked cat nothing should melt and droop from heat. Oh well live and learn, I can't really argue with them and it is a cheap price considering it is 1 year out of warranty and I am essentially getting a new turbo.

Apparently the balance something drooped which caused everything to spin out of balance and eventually eat the bearings and the compressor wheel. He said the cause was excessive exhaust gas temperatures as everything was blue. My dyno sheet says the afrs are around 12:1 and the cat, middle exhaust and rear cannon aren't blocked so what could cause this? I am going to get a complete re tune when the turbo goes back on the car but I don't want a repeat performance. Was quoted $1200 for new bearings, front wheel, shaft and balance weights, quite cheap as he said he would do it minus the labour charges which I really appreciated. Basically an entire new turbo with new warranty minus the housings obviously.