Rolls

I do not understand this craze, everyone is always saying MAD TYPE JDM BRO on their sales and threads. It just means Japanese Domestic Market, what is so amazing about this?

Because a loud exhaust system on a turbocharged car can improve performance by up to 20-30rwkw and generally sounds very nice. A fake turbo just sounds annoying and does nothing to improve performance. Hence it is wanky.

If it actually sounded like the 2nd video then I'd say go for it as it sounds real. It is a total wank and a retarded idea but f**k if it sounds real and you don't care about being called a tosser/poser then it is your car, do it.

It is a shitty idea, there are hundreds of better engines out there that will have better throttle response and make more power NA with no mods needed. RBs are great with forced induction, NA with cams they will always be inferior to large capacity NA motors such as a 4L six or a 5L+ v8. The later will also be cheaper as it will need no modifications, just the engine mount/transmission modifications.

Also another cheaper easier alternative.

Doesn't mean it passes the ADRs, he was probably just being nice.

How high is 'higher' ?

A red 202 is also an idea, personally I would give it the same merits as building an rb30d, its got .3 of a litre more capacity than the RB30 and it is pushrod so it will have that f**king mean sound to it as well.

If the rims are more than 2" bigger than standard then they will ping you for that.

Bought = You went to the shop, paid for something and it is now yours. Brought = You took something with you. THEY ARE NOT THE SAME WORD!

I would still install an upgraded radiator before an oil cooler.

Actually I would say a large radiator is better protection.

Just put a red 202 in it.

Well if you are having trouble with traction in 3rd when its hot I think we can safetly assume you have enough power that it simply doesn't matter I was mainly refering to dudes with stock rb20/25s.

A bog stock falcon doesn't lose half its power in summer compared to winter thought, my point was, whilst a turbo car technically will lose more, it shouldn't lose half it's power, hence the standard air boxes are the way to go.

Sell your car for $10k, buy a $18k built R33 with 320rwkw. Cost $8k Or do it yourself and spend upwards of $20k on top of your purchase price lol, oh not to mention the 2 years it will probably take to get all the parts, put it together and make it work.

theres a reason everyone builds the same motors, that's because from trial and error they have been found to be the best. If you want to be different just tell everyone its an rb24 or something lol, hardly anyone will be able to tell the difference.

You seem very hung up on a peak power figure but you say you want it to be daily driven, 1/4 etc. Now unless you get a custom diff ratio and gearset (or auto with a massive 5k stally) so you never leave the power band 500hp on a 4L motor is going to feel twice as fast as 800hp on a 2.5L motor. Have you considered spending the money on going to a larger capacity motor such a a 3L or something totally different to a RB motor? The reason I ask is if you went to a 3L+ motor you wouldn't have to spin the motor as hard, you would have less lag and hence wouldn't have problems keeping it in the power band with standard diff and gear ratios. You said you had 600hp on an s13, I am going to assume you meant the 4 banger because you didn't say otherwise, now this 'wasn't enough' as you said. Now if you measure the average power, or the area under the curve of your useable revs you will probably find that a strong 4-500hp 3L build will make a dickload more usable power than a 750hp 2.5L and will feel far faster and be faster on the street. This is because you constantly have to keep it between 7000-8500rpm so that you are actually making any power, not to mention the terrible throttle response. edit: You mentioned you would consider using a V8 (I am going to assume at least 5L or greater in capacity) now this is WORLDS apart from a 750hp 2.5L i6, the average power will be almost DOUBLE on the v8 due to not having to rev its ring out all day to get it on boost. I would very seriously consider looking at a 3L block as a minimum if you want to make this sort of power and have it useable. Also do not use a plain bearing turbo, that is just going to make the problem (horrible horrible lag) even worse.

Injection will always be superior to a carburettor, it wouldn't rev anywhere near as hard as a RB30DE as it has inferior fuel and air delivery. In fact I would imagine a plain RB30E would be superior. If you want something mean and cheap get a stock rb30e and put the biggest wildest cam you can in there and just bump the fuel pressure up. It will guzzle fuel and probably be an absolute dog to drive unless you are revving it, but at least it will sound mean and rev.

um ok ? thanks for the bump lol

Yeah it does I just wasn't sure exactly what the 'GTR resistor pack' was, and if I was to make my own what ohmage and power rating the resistors need to be. I will do a search for this thread you mentioned.

The weight that is suggested by the factory is dependant on the tolerances the motor is built to along with what additives they have, eg a diesel needs highpressure additives due to the high compression rations etc they run. Thinner is almost always better in terms of performance and wear as thinner means less friction hence less wear. The only time thicker is recommended is due to high operating temperatures or poor tolerances (sometimes big 10L diesels have large tolerances so they last longer and due to their design). Once again I didn't mean to have a go at you but you did not give a single technical reason why thicker oils are beneficial, if you can't even attempt to do this then why should anyone listen to you? Regarding me being an expert on oil, no I am not but I have studied engineering and that covered thermo fluids and many other mathematical engineering topics that cover things like this so I would say I have a fairly grounded understanding of how oils work. There are many many reasons why thinner oil is better at start up, I have posted several detailed links in this thread about the technical details that I suggest you read. Here is one of them, I'm sure if you dig through the thread you will find the other links I posted. http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html Cheers

1600ccs? what sort of power are you making rofl? or are you tuning for E85?

I bet all you people complaining of heat soak are using unshielded pods. Put the standard airbox with a highflow panel filter back in and you will see a huge improvement.

Thanks for that, what is the 'ballast' resistor? Do you know how many ohms it needs to be and how many watts it should be rated to? Also why have you seperately wired it to each injector, couldn't you just cut the red wire and put it inline with it? Thanks