Sydneykid

This is an equal length engine pipe for an RB26DETT with a decent length of separation of the split dumps. cheers

Hi Gary, rear subframe alignment first, simply question, complicated answer. Basically it comes down to how much power it has, if power oversteer is a problem then set it up for "Maximum Traction". If it never power oversteers and has understeer on corner exit then set it up for "Drift". If it is neutral, then set it up for "All Round Performance". As posted elsewhere in the last couple of days, personally I adjust the opposite end. For example if it is understeering, I stiffen up the rear stabiliser bar. Conversely if it is oversteering, I stiffen up the front stabiliser bar. If I already have the bar on full hard, I them soften up the other end. Have a great weekend going up the hill, I will be at Eastern Creek all weekend for the NSW State Road Racing Championship Round 2 with the race team. Cheers Ps; Hillclimbs are kinda like drags, the start is all important, so I would lean towards the "Maximum Traction" setting.

Yes cheers

Hi George, on side fits and the other side doesn't, are the bushes different or the brackets? cheers

Let's see, there are around 4,000 Skylines in Australia and over 2 million in Japan with this style of calliper. Miraculously you are the ONE with brake squeel that can't be fixed. I don't think so Tim. cheers

My 20 cents; The N1 RB26DETT oil pump has a wide flange drive, the RB20 cranksahft has a narrrow flange. You will need a crank collar (ProEngines) to stop the flange mismatch cracking the oil pump rotor. The N1 RB26DETT water pump is designed for sustained high rpm, as in circuit racing for 6 hours plus. Not a good idea for a road car, idling, on a 45 degree day with the aircon on. I don't see valve springs on the list, for the rpm, boost plus cam duration and lift you really should invest in a set. Thick head gasket not required on an RB20DET, their standard compression ratio is already too low for best response. Save your money and use copper plugs, iridium is not as good a conductor as copper. Be careful with the Walbro pump, they lack the torque for good fuel pressure at high flow rates. A standard GTR fuel pump would be a better choice. For your power target the Motec M600 is an expensive choice, realistically a on line chip and tune of your standard R32GTST ECU would do the job. For less than half the all up (buy, install and tune) cost of the Motec, a Power FC would be a btter choice as well. I assume the 440 cc injectors are GTR ones. in which case don't foget the resistor pack if you are using the std ECU or a PFC. I noticed the oil cooler which is a good idea if you are going to do some circuit work, but then you have specified a bar and plate FMIC. For circuit work and tube and fin is a better proposition. Less internal volume, lower total weight and freer flow to the radiator. For the exhaust don't scrimp, go for the split dump and if you find a 3.25" for a good price grab it over the 3" cat back exhaust. Decat is of course totally illegal for a road car. That's about it, hopefully saved you some waisted expense and used it for even better performance. cheers PS, I ddin't notice any mention of the suspension upgrades necessary to match the power output. Hopefully that's in another thread.

The gear doesn't matter, as long as the correct data is input. But that aplies to any gear/any car/any time when it is put on the rollers. cheers PS; lots of imports are dyno'd in 3rd gear as the 180 kph speed limiter (in the standard ECU) causes an issue in 4th gear.

I am having a dumb day................ I have the same white plug covered in foam. The yellow/black wire comes out of the main dash wiring harness and goes into the plug and then follows the antenna wiring. I can't see where/how it was connected to the standard radio. Surely to turn on the antenna signal amplifier it would need a signal from the standard radio. cheers

Cheers

Some timing lights don't like the signal from the wiring loop, maybe borrow one and compare. If not that, then it is usually a sign of an unstable idle, and inconsistent ignition mapping at or around the idle rpm. Have a look at the maps for clues. Cheers

There are 2 oil feed galeries in the block that mate up to matching galleries in the head. They are between #2 & #3 and #4 & #5. Block the rear one and restrict the front one. A piece of brass rod drilled to the right size hole works well as a restrictor. cheers

Mine has no wire attached to the antenna wire The only yellow/black wire I can see is very thick and wanders off the direction of the steering wheel. The best choice I have left is to trace the wire back from the amplifier (that's the antenna signal amplifier). The question is where is the antenna signal amplifier? Cheers

Link fixed, thanks for the tip off. Plenty of guys do it in stages, the only issue is camber change when you lower it with the springs and shocks. If you don't mind the possible increased tyre wear, then no other issues. Things to remember; Stabiliser bars are the best bang for buck suspension upgrade you can make for improved handling. Skylines NEVER have enough caster, that's why they wander at speed, are reluctant to turn in and have poor steering feel. Hence the need for adjustable caster (radius rod) bushes. cheers

The Bilstein shocks come with a circlip retained lower spring seat. By machining extra circlip grooves it enables the exact height to be selected prior to fitting the shock/spring set. The circlip groove settings give pre determined heights that I have tested on a number of Skylines. Slight variations from vehicle to vehicle as usual. cheers

Sorry I missed the question. The answer is it depends on how much you want to lower it. Following is the camber correction required for various ride heights; This is what is usually needed for each height increment, note that all measurements are centre of wheel to guard; Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear 360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters 350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit 340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits Using lowered springs and standard shocks is covered in this thread; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=103158 Stabiliser bars are the best bang for buck suspension upgrade you can make for improved handling. Skylines NEVER have enough caster, that's why they wander at speed, are reluctant to turn in and have poor steering feel. Hence the need for adjustable caster (radius rod) bushes. The standard rear subframe bushes are very soft, silicone filled. They are soft when new and do wear over time until they finally leak. The rear subframe alignment kit supplements the standard bushes, stop the subframe from flopping around and at the same time give some adjustemtn of the rear squat. This allows for improvement in the rear traction. In summary, I haven't included anything in the Group Buy that I don't think is necessary. cheers PS; the Group Buy is open until the Bilsteins run out, there is still stock at the moment.

Personally I adjust the opposite end to that with a problem. For example, to lessen the understeer I stiffen up the rear anti roll bar. If the rear bar is at full hard and I still have understeer, then I soften the front. cheers

The kits come with a steering rack extender, sometimes 2. They bolt onto the end of the steering rack, between the rack and the stopper/seal. The tie rod screws into the stopper/seal block. This effectively lengthens the rack itself giving more steering lock. The extenders are around 10 mm thick, giving 20 mm extra rack length. This adds a few degrees of additional steering lock/wheel turning. There is not enough thread on the rack to fit even 3 mm of washers. So you are looking at less than 1/6th what the aftermarket parts give, hardly worth the risk or time and effort. cheers PS, have you already run out of lock while drifting? Because you really need to be pretty damn sideways before the extra lock comes into effect.

Does it still have HICAS? cheers

Lots of questions, I will try and number them for easy reference; 1. I have a set of R32 Nismo front upper control arms, they are no shorter than the standard arms, just painted silver with Nismo stickers instead of plain black. The Nismo's achieve the camber with offset bushes. 2. The Whiteline offset camber bushes move the arm ~5 mm with full adjustment. You have to do a tiny bit of clearancing around the rear of the arm when you fit offset bushes. No big deal. 3. You may not have to use the full amount of adjustment, at some tracks we set the bush so the offset is downwards, which doesn't increase the static negative camber but gives more dynamic negative camber change. 4. If you have the Cusco radius rods set at 339 mm to get 3 degrees of caster then you must have had almost zero caster before you fitted them. Maybe check the caster readings again, just to be sure. Glad to hear that it's getting faster, I find that it's a journey not a destination, I never actually reach "fast", I always know that there is a "faster". cheers

I gather you are looking for two things; 1. The reason why it happened? My guess is you didn't bleed the air out of the radiator and engine after you flushed it. Hence the engine built up pockets of trapped air. These produce hot spots in the engine that boil the water around it. The increased pressure from the boiling water cracked the radiator at the weakest point. Did you bleed the radiator and theengien aftger you refilled it? Using the bleed on the top of the inlet manifold? Although why the radiator cap didn't relieve the pressure is interesting. Did you change the radiator cap when you did the flush? 2. How to fix it? The top tank is actually clipped/clamped on, they are rather difficult to repair after 13-17 years of use. My suggestion would be to buy a replacement radiator. Cheers As soon as you fit the new radiator I would do pressure test as I would be surprised if you haven't warped the cylinder head from the excessive localised hot spots.

The caster at +3 degrees is way less than we can achieve, using the Whiteline adjustable radius rod bushes we get close to 6 degrees. Are you using GTST or GTR aftermarket radius rods? If they are GTST aftermarket radius rods then that is the problem, the GTR ones are shorter. This is required as the GTR (engine) subframe is closer to the front subframe to fit the diff and drive shafts in. For more camber what we do is to fit adjustable (offset) crush tubes in the inner mount of the upper control arm. The same bushes and crush tubes as are used on the outer mount of the upper control arm. PM me for more details. I would look at fixing the caster problem first as you may find that with an additional 3 degree of caster you don't need the extra camber. Cheers

Check out the thread on the differences between a bad shock and a good shock for more information. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=114718 cheers

Did an hour of fuel economy tuning yesterday, leaning out the idle plus the 80 90, 100 and 110 kph cruise mapping for 4th and 5th gear. I changed 87 of the 100 load points between 1/1 and 10/10. It was running as rich as 12.5 to 1, so I leaned it out to 15.2 at idle and 15.0 at cruise. This will improve the fuel consumption noticeably as the closed loop running takes some seconds of constant load before it kicks in. Plus only slight touches on the throttle drop it out of closed loop cruise. With the mapping tight around those load points it won't matter if it drops in and out of closed loop running. When the gallery upload is working I will post up the relevant cells from the injection maps via Datalogit. cheers

Wishful thinking if you think that this thread won't get just as confusing. : My 20 cents worth............. I would never use anything but a split dump and engine pipe combination, from what I have seen the Trust ones (R33GTR fits Stagea) are the best so far if you are after of the shelf. Performance Metalcraft make a better set, if you are prepared to leave your car for a week while they make them. Magic cats (4" OD) are $210 on the Group Buy, all Skylines and Stageas use the same cat configuration. Stagea cat back exhaust is longer than any Skyline due to the wheelbase and rear overhang, any Stagea designated cat back will do. Personally I would go for nothing smaller than 3.25" OD and shutting up a 4" system is not easy. IMHO pods are useless without decent heat shielding and ambient air feed. They simply make lots of noise, are illegal, don't fiiter all that well, let in heaps of hot air and cost lots of power. I would use a Pipercross panel in the standard airbox, they work very well up to 300 rwkw based on our experience. The best power up fuel economy mod you can make is a Power FC, do it sooner rather than later. cheers

It's not easy to tell the difference some times, the best way is to look at the specifications of the shock. If it doesn't say "monotube" then chances are it's a twin tube. The other way is to look at the shock body, if it has a step in the outside diameter (usually towards the bottom) then it's a twin tube. cheers PS; the object of this thread is to educate, so the readers know why one shock costs $100 and another costs $500, even though they look basically the same. I am trying not to mention brand names or say "this shock" is always better than "that shock".