Sydneykid

Hi Guys I have my turbo back exhaust for sale. Has come off my R33 GTST. Comes with Split dump front pipe - black with strapping - 10.000kms Magic Cat - 10,000kms Kakimoto cat back - 30,000kms Parts are located in Sydney Urgent sale needed, $800 or best offer Please email - ss.matt1.ss @ gmail.com Or phone/txt 0418 432 857 Thanks Matt

Hey, I'll be stoked with a 49.....

Recaros. They had packing tape on the backs front bar - I'd know it by the way we hacked it up to fit the front bar in. GTR cooler is twisted as all Hell, not worth a cent lol. The piping - plazmaman with a way old school turbosmart bov. Also, it had a greddy knockoff front facing plenum. Yellow control arms and swaybars. Nakamichi head unit, cd-45z. Had a gcg hi flow, exhaust manifold was ported. Had those red superspark coils. Bonnet protector under bonnet has big holes blown in it by bov. That's about it. Someone must have seen this stuff come up for sale.

Insurance company owns it. I'll claim it from the cops, notify them tomorrow so theycan assess it.

Car has been found!!! It's has been stripped of gtr cooler and all pipework front bar head and tail lights. Ignition coils. Red recaros. Bonnet. rear wing suspension - bilsteins etc. Car was only dumped last night. It is my belief that someone has hadthis car sitting around trying To sell bits off. Maybe they had been trying here or eBay. Any help tracking the peeps down would be appreciated. Maybe we can solve this but I'll need help

GUYS, I just had a phone call asking me if I was the owner of a white Skyline, plates GO33GO. This car was stolen some 8 months ago (sept 17 to be exact). I have just had a call asking me if I am the owner of the car. I have no further info (cop's gunna call back), but can only assume this car has been spotted by them - which means it is still intact (and running!!). PLEASE, if anyone sees this R33, the plates are still on the car. It is a White R33 GTST M, Enkei RPF1s, GTR front mount, red recaros, SAU sticker under rear plates, Superlap 09 sticker on right hand rear quarter window. I WANT MY BABY BACK! If you see it, call me on 0418 432 857, or follow it, or tell me where it is, or call the cops - ANYTHING you can. I will reward anyone who can help. I will update when I have more solid info Thanks guys Matt 0418 432 857

I think I have a full set in stock at home, my usual mix of Whiteline Plus (nee Noltec), Whiteline Flat Out and SuperPro. No one brand has all of them that give the right amount and type of adjustment. The problem with R32's these days is that they are getting on, they are heavy and very few have had gentle lives. So almost always every bush is stuffed. Most guys also do the HICAS elimination at the same time as it saves doing the rear end alignment twice So the parts cost is rarely under $1.5K, PM me if you want a detailed break down. The usual stuff for R32GTR's is; Caster Kit Front Camber Kit Outer Front Camber Kit Inner Steering Rack Bushes Gearbox Mount Bushes Rear Subframe Bushes Rear Subframe Alignment Kit Diff support bushes HICAS Elimination Kit Lower Control Arm Inner Rear Camber Kit Inner (does upper control arm and traction rod inner) Rear Camber Kit Outer (does upper control arm and traction rod outer) Cheers Gary

We have been having really good success with Injector Dynamics injectors, extemely accurate and perfectly matched sets of 4 or 6. For around $US115 each they are a true technology bargain. They are so accurate that Dyno Dave is now tuning with voltage, fuel temperature and fuel pressure correction using full 4 dimensional mapping. The A/F ratios are unbelievably accurate now, all through the race, hot, cold, wet, dry, it maintains the tuned A/F ratios all the way. This means better fuel economy, which is important in long distance races and more power over the distance, no matter what the conditions. To get the benefits at this level you need accurate, consistent and matched injectors. Cheers Gary

I've been running E85 is one of my cars for almost 3 years, that's around 80,000 k's and it uses my standard oil for RB's, Castrol Edge 0W60. The usual oil change interval is 8,000 k's and, not that looks is everything, but it comes out of the engine looking much cleaner than it did with Pump98 in the same engine. It also doesn't smell of stale/burnt pertrol. For the drag cars using methanol I used to change the straight Castrol W50 (now Edge 25W50) every race meeting and I notice the sprint cars guys do the same. In the race car using E85 I will be sending the most recent drain of Castrol Edge 0W60 to Technical for analysis. Asside from the usual engine condition diagnosis it wil give me some idea of how often to change the oil in it. Cheers Gary

Cheers Gary

I use spherical swaybar links on the race cars so that I can adjust their length to facilitate corner weighting. For a road car the standard front links and the supplied rear links are fine. Cheers Gary

The link goes on the outside of the swaybar not the inside. As you lengthen and shorten the links it rotates the dip in the swaybar where it clears the exhaust. If you have the links too long the dip will hit on the drive shaft flange. Cheers Gary

The PSS9 kit is actually designed for the R33/34GTR, so you can use it on the R34GTT. The only issue on the R33/34GT is that the rear springs ratea are rediculous as they were specified by the Japanaese Bilstein Distributor. They are almost double the rate that they need to be. On a R34GTT I would recommend also taking some spring rate out of the front, due to the lighter weight of the 2wd. The shock damping is OK, it will handle the change in spring rates easily, it has the usual Bilstein sophisticated valving and the adjustment is meaningful and effective. Cheers Gary

They're not technically coil overs on the rear of an M35 as the springs are separate from the shocks. So only the front is true coil over and that's as per standard. Cheers Gary

I always remove the backing plates, so I don't worry about them being in the way. Plus I use braided lines so I don't know if the standard ones fit. Rear handbrake has never been a problem as the rear rotor internal diameter is the same. The calliper to hub bolt sizes (diam and thread) are different. I can't recall, maybe M12 to M14, the smaller size bolts are on the Stagea and R34GTT and the larger size bolts on the GTR's. From memory Duncan used spacers to fill the larger hole sizes for fitting the GTR callipers on to the Stagea using the smaller diameter Stagea bolts. Cheers Gary

Make that $45 per shock for 5 additional grooves = $180 for all 4 shocks. Cheers Gary

I'd copy the OS Giken process, RB30 crank, RB26 rod length, 2 head gaskets, 12.3mm (1/2" milled) spacer plate and tall liners. With an 87 mm bore that will give you 3,069 cc's. That's 600 cc's (~20%) more than you have with a standard RB26. Not an ideal rod stroke ratio, but OS Giken weren't totally wrong, it's about the best you can get from an RB26 block. You can't use RB30 length rods as the spacer plate would be too thick (30mm) and the cylinder liners would poke out of the block too far. All you have to do is give a headgasket to a machinist and say copy that in 1/2 steel plate. Mill the spacer plate flat, bolt it on an RB26 block and then have the liners installed, shrink to fit, then bore to 87 mm and deck. Not a big deal really. Cheers Gary

If you need to change the toe links you are lowering it too much, far too much. The lack of tow adjutsment is the least of your problems, camber is #1, then bump steer, too low a roll centre and too large a roll couple. If you fix all of those problems then the standard toe links will have enough adjustment. Consider the toe link to be like a rev limiter, if you lower the car too much it will hit the rev limiter. So don't rev it too far Cheers Gary

I also believe go with split dump, the bell mouths do leak, even the trusted brand name ones, I've tried both and found split dumps a way better road to go down Cheers Gary

Stageas use R32 rear strut tops. R33 and R34 rear strut tops are different (larger) than R32. You can use R32/33/34 front strut tops in the rear of R33/34's, you just need to drill the stud holes 2 mm larger OD (6mm to 8 mm). Cheers Gary

Why do you think the STi callipers are going to be any better than the standard R33GTST callipers? Cheers Gary

Since I wrote those specs for Whiteline I can hardly argue with them But it is worth keeping in mind that they are only a point at which to start from. I would run very different settings for hillclimbs and circuit races, let alone tarmac rallies. On that subject I agree with the guys, for tarmac rallies stick with the ABS, but for hillclimbs and circuit racing I would run no ABS. It's all part of the compromises when you run such different events. Cheers Gary

No Cheers Gary

Let me start off with some track observations, that is one painful artificial hairpin. It’s not normal to find such a drastic U turn in a normal hillclimb. Hairpins yes, but carpark U turns no. The set up for that track would be quite different to most of the hillclimb tracks around. I can only assume it’s there to slow the cars for the right hander which would have a very high speed entry if not for the U turn. Back to the question at hand, it’s amazing how a little more information makes the question so much easier to answer; I'd lose the ABS and at the same time save the weight over the front which is always the weakest link in setting up a GTR. Anytime you can save weight in the front do it. Anytime you can transfer weight from the front to the back, do it. When you remove the ABS you will have to reroute the hydraulic brake lines. So that’s a good time to change the split from diagonal to front and rear and then you can add a simple rear brake bias adjuster. I generally use the Tilton, lever style. For hillclimbs I use quite different brake pad compounds front and rear, than I do for circuit racing. I would use something like a Hawk HT10 in the front and a HTC70 in the rear. That will give you faster initial bight in the rear, added to the ability to adjust the bias and you should be able to control the rear on corner entry. The major problem I see is geometry set up, for the lower speed hillclimbs (with tight corners) I use a lot of toe out on the rear of GTRs. It makes them nice and nervous under brakes. I have used up to 3 mm each side. It’s hard to tell from the video but it looks like you might not have enough caster, that’s maybe also be why it’s lazy on turn in. The reality is you can’t have too much caster on GTRs, they could always do with more than is physically possible. I don’t know how much you have now but I’d try and get some more. For hillclimbs I run very little rear camber, around 1 degree negative is usually enough. It helps get off the line and it means the camber curve goes positive under brakes. This also helps on the turn in. I don’t know what shocks and springs you are running but they don’t appear to have sufficient droop for hillclimbing. Plus the front spring and/or bump damper rates are possibly too high or maybe the front anti roll is too high. Hopefully that is of some help. If you want to go deeper into it, I will need the current alignment settings, including ride heights (centre of wheel to guard of course) plus spring rates and swaybar rates. Cheers Gary

Unfortunately R34GTS4's are not the same as anything else. So you can't just grab a complete kit, it's a mix and match exercise. Being a 4WD the front shocks have to be the short style, like an R32/33/34GTR. But it doesn't have the same weight on the front (no turbos, no intercooler, smaller gearbox etc) so you need a lower front spring rate and lower spring free height than an R33/34GTR. At the rear the R34GTS4 doesn't have the alloy rear hubs that R34GTR's and R34GTT's have, it has cast iron hubs like an R33GTST and R34GT. That's why an R34GTS4 needs the rear shocks with the eyes (like an R33GTST) not the forks (like an R33/34GTR). The rear springs in R33and R34 all models are the same. A summary of what you need; R33/34GTR front shocks R33GTST or R34GTT front springs R33GTST rear shocks R33/34GTR, R33GTST or R34GTT rear springs Cheers Gary