Sydneykid

The reason I ask is we have an R34GTT manual with 265 rwkw that does 11.9 at 120 mph and the Stagea is faster on the average street, up to the speed limit (110 kph). The Stagea pulls away until the R34GTT gets is power to the ground, stops wheelspinning, which is all of 1st gear and about 2/3 of second gear. The Stagea has around 150-160 4wkw at the moment judging by its feel. So when it has 200 4wkw it is just going to be that much harder to beat. I can launch the Stage with 0.7 bar of boost by simply holding it against the torque converter. Then just slide the left foot off the brake, no wheelspin and it never gets under the the 0.7 bar. There is no way that the manual will ever do that, and the auto is so stealth, no noise, no rev, rev, rev, dump, wheelspin. Just see ya ...... cheers

Hi Pete, on the race cars we have data logging so I know exactly how long it takes for the oil to increase temperature and by how much it increases temperature. In cold climates, where the oil drops to minus celsius temperatures overnight, a thermostat may well be worthwhile. In some places I have had to run a heater under the sump before I start the car. But in Australia I have seen no evidence to support any requirement for a thermostat on an oil cooler. I think Roy covered it pretty well. The oil cooler is going to do nothing to cool down the oil in the time since you have started the engine, put your seat belt on, turned up the stereo and backed out of the driveway. I have never ever used a thermostat on an oil cooler on any car in Australia and I never will. I have plenty of logged evidence and many cars over the years to base this opinion on. cheers

Sold, PM me your bank details, where the courier can pick it up from and how much you want for it. After we check it out (crack test and measure) it is going in a 420+rwkw RB31DET. I know it won't be a problem. cheers

Do any of you guys with manuals reckon you could drag off an auto Stagea with the same 4wkw? cheers

The rate of the non adjustable bars is determined by the diameter of the bar used. If you want to compare a 24 mm fixed bar with a 24 mm adjustable bar, then the fixed bar is equivalent to full soft on the adjustable bar. But you could use a 27mm fixed bar and compared to a 24 mm adjustable bar it would be equivalent to the hardest setting. cheers

Have a look at the Group Buy thread for your particular model, I think your questions are all answered there. If not ask away. cheers

Real world experiences; I know that on a humid race day we have to bleed off more pressure in the tyres (as they heatup) than on a dry day. Note that is using a compressor with no water filter to pump up the tyres. I always put that down to more water vapour in the air. Not water itself. I know that using air from a cylinder we still have to bleed off pressure in the tyres, just not as much as what we do out of the compressor. I always put that down to less (maybe even zero) water vapour in the cylinder. I know that nitrogen filled tyres take even less bleeding off, I put that down to the lower expansion properties (due to heat) of the nitrogen versus air. ie oxygen (+ other gases) expands more when it is heated from ~20 degrees to ~70 degress. I don't know whether that is true or not, all I know is there is less expension from 100% nitrogen cheers

Hi, all I did was cut the solenoid output wire at the ecu plug and wire in the IEBC. I didn't do any wiring at the solenoid. cheers

Yep, more leverage = lower bar rate Two holes on each arm = 3 settings as follows; 1 / 1 softest 1 / 2 middle 2 / 2 hardest For the guys with 3 holes per arm = 5 settings as follows; 1 / 1 softest 1 / 2 2 / 2 middle 2 / 3 3 / 3 hardest cheers

The 100% nitrogen filled tyres don't increase pressures as much as ambient air does when the tyres get hot. So they are more stable in their tyre pressures. My understanding is this is mostly due to the humidity (H2O) pressent in ambient air. Which, when it gets hot, breaks down into hydrogen and oxygen and increases the pressure accordingly. So when they say "humidity is 40%", what does that mean to the 79.5/19.5/1 mixture? Does it become 47.5/11.5/1/40? If so, that's why the pressure goes up so much if you have 40% of the contents of the tyre splittting into hydrogen and oxygen. cheers

Whatever the other (than rpm) axis is on the ignition and fuel maps, I would assume that's MAP sensor. What you are trying to do is to have logs that tell you what changes to make in your maps to achieve the target A/F ratios. So it makes sense to me to use the relevant maps axis in the logging. I just reckon it is easier that way. cheers

I am working on a Group Buy, brake pads, braided lines and rotors. But it won't be all off the shelf parts, some parts will be tailored to my engineering requirements. In particular the brake pads as I have found NOTHING off the shelf that meets my expectations for hi CoF, no noise, good fade resistence and low dust. I have the compound worked out, just waiting for prototypes to test. Thye are a couple of weeks away at best. cheers

The only inputs to the TE 2A1 I am going to use (other than the F&W lambda sensor of course) is rpm and AFM voltage. Both of those are available at the pins on the ECU plug. Did that answer your question? chers

OK, not picking on the poster of this comment, I have deleted who it was for that reason. But I am getting very tired of this slavish belief that having a flat A/F ratio trace is somehow a reflection of good tuning. It's NOT, all it indicates is the guy doing the tuning decided on an A/F ratio and then tuned to it. Any idiot can do that. But (there is always a but) that ASSUMES that the one A/F ratio results in the best power at that rpm. And we all know that is CRAP, 12.X to 1 may well yield more power than 12.Y to 1 at certain rpm points. A GOOD tuner aims for a smooth power curve, not a smooth A/F ratio trace. I know which I would much rather have. cheers

I'll kick it off, my suggestions follow; 1. Full soft front and rear, that is still a lot of antiroll. 2. Very much dependant on the which track and the conditions on the day, how slippery the track is, what the ambient temperature is, whether it is raining or not etc. Generally speaking the rear stays on full soft and the front is 2 settings up from full soft (the middle setting). That's on a GTST with plenty of power, hence oversteer on demand. If you find understeer is a problem then go a bit harder in the rear bar settings. 3. Full soft on the front and middle setting on the rear, sometimes full hard for tight courses. 4. Full soft on the rear, I have even disconnected one link on the rear just to be sure that there is minimal rear antiroll for maximium traction. 5. Yes, traction on bumpy surface can be an issue. I would never run as much rear bar on the street as I do on the circuit, you never know when it is going to rain or just get slippery. Tyre wear, I don't think that is an issue, even for excessive antiroll. I guess it could be argued that if there is too much negative camber (for the road) and run excessive antiroll it could increase the tyre wear. But it would be more a camber issue than an roll bar setting problem. Hope that was of some help Cheers

Yep, I installed all of the resistors on the 2A1 PCB last night, tonight I might finish the rest of the components. cheers

Yep, done all the time cheers

Holy crappola, you know you have a relevant web site when an large company like ACL posts information on their products directly. cheers

Hi Brad, you can buy off the shelf pulley kits for RB26's to slow down the alternator, power steering and water pump. If you use the larger pulley on an N1 water pump they have difficulty at high ambient temps in traffic, they simply don't move enough water. Keep your eye out for that problem, if it occurs use a standard water pump or a standard pulley. You will need an 11,000 rpm capable harmonic balancer, I wouldn't be using a standard RB26 one, that's for sure. I thought that HKS made one for their 2.7/2.8 litre kits. The air conditioning compressor is a difficult one, no off the shelf (larger) pulley that I have seen for them. I found a larger diameter pulley/clutch for a guy a few years back, he had done the SOHC to DOHC swap and killed 3 compressors with the higher rpm. I popped around to a guy I knew that rebuilt compressors and we went though his stock until we found one that was larger in diameter and fitted up to the compressor shaft. We had no idea what car it was off, it fitted, that's all we were worried about. You may have to do the same. You could always turn off the aircon whenever you are going to give it a rev, but one day you will forget and exploding compressors make a great deal noise, smoke and oily mess. I do know another guy who has an rpm sensitive switch that turns off his air conditioning over 7,000 rpm to avoid that problem. Jaycar have a kit that will do that for you. Hope that helps cheers

I would have thought that you would need SOME front traction :lol: :lol: Cheers

HiBoz, yep the KCA347 fits all R32, R33 and R34 models. If you do actually need both inner and outer adjusters to get the camber right, then make sure you order 2 X kits. Sorry, I missed the swaybar question before. Usually increasing the rear anti roll reduces the understeer, so that is where I would start. Increasing the caster also helps a lot. cheers

The RB25DET Neo has infinitely variable VVT, unlike the RBDET non Neo which is a simple on or off. So the ECU's (inc PFC) are quite different, and the ECU pinouts (plugs) are also very different. The easiest way (that I have found) is to use all of the parts from the same model that means sensors, harness and ECU. So you could use all R34GTT parts, just check for prices, they aren't cheap. The cheaper alternative wouldbe to use all of your current R32GTST parts. This would mean no VVT, but it would be the easiest/cheapest. cheers

Take a look at this thread, it is about doing the same as you are in a Stagea, same pipework, same intercoolers. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=69501 cheers

1. Divide by 29, that's 4.1 diff ratio with 245/45/17 tyres. 2. We have had this discussion previously. Why would you pay for an 11,000 rpm crank and only use 9,000 rpm? The standard crank will do 9,000 rpm, it's a waste of money buying something that you aren't going to use. I don't see 9,000 rpm as being a problem for the standard pulleys, however 9,500 rpm will require changes, particularly the alternator (easy) and the air con compressor (very difficult). 3. They have had some success in the UK with GTRS's on 2.8 litres with around 9 to 1 compression ratio. The trick seems to be to remove the restrictions so you don't have to run high boost to make the power. Then you can use a more responsive compression ratio. 4. Catch 22, the 2.8 litres swallows more air, but it produces more exhaust. The gain is in removing restrictons not increased capacity. 5. I may have misread it, but I am sure I saw a 2530 new version (Kai) at an aftermarket show in the US. Why don't you just use your current 2530's and see how they go? Some extra info; Last time I checked Harrop Engineering made HKS's RB crankhafts and the HKS conrods were made by Carrillo. Apexi turbos are made by IHI, they used to use someone else, but that was many years ago. cheers

I have Bendix Ultimates in several cars and I don't find them too bad on dust. For the money they are probably the least dusty pad. The Whiteline springs on the Group Buy are cheaper than Kings. I don't think Munroe make Skyline shocks. Pedders sell their own ellcheapo brand, but I STRONGLY suggest you have a read of other peoples experience before you buy them. You get what you pay for in shocks and the Bislteins on the Group Buy are very good value for money. cheers