Sydneykid

That's a pretty good result, ours ended up at 133 rwkw with just the DFA (11 to 1 A/F ratios) and the IEBC (10 psi), zero mechanical mods. Do you have the dyno graphs for boost and A/F ratio? That's the best way to judge a tune. Next step, I would go for a split dump, with BOS or CES being the best value for money. Personally I am going to use a GCG ball bearing hi flow turbo, keeping in mind my power target of 200 4wkw. So that turbo will do it easily at around 1 bar, or maybe even less. Why 200 4wkw? Well I don't really want to change the injectors, or the fuel pump and I figure the auto will handle that power output without killing it. Plus it isn't a race car, it TOWS the race car, so it has to be reliable. Plus I don't want to spend all of my time (and money) modifying it beyond it use. Past experience with RB25's tells me 200 4wkw with an auto (about 215 rwkw with a manual) is a nice reliable and tractible power output. cheers

Jaycar have a DPA (Digital Pulse Adjuster) that would be much better for controlling extra injectors. cheers

I tuned the IEBC (boost curve) on the road before we tuned the DFA on the dyno. It didn't make any difference as the tuning changes we made with the DFA were all in the area where the IEBC settings were the same (check out the previously posted maps/graphs). So a few points up or down in the injector duty cycle made no difference to the boost. Bottom line, it's not a problem in the real world, move on. cheers

Rising rate fuel pressure regulators are tricky to tune for at times, I prefer a linear rate adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Rising rate FPR's are usefull for the older ECU's that didn't have rich and retard mapping. Nothing wrong with increasing the fuel pressure above standard, to sneak a little more flow out of the injectors. As long as the fuel pump can deliver the extra pressure and still maintain the flow rate. That's the difficult part, an example. You might increase the fuel pressure by 10% and achieve a 4% increase in fuel flow from the injectors. But because of the extra resistance (pressure) the fuel pump might actually flow 6% less fuel. So you can actually go backwards if the fuel pump is not up to it. The other issue is the ability of the standard rubber hoses and hose clamps to hold the increased pressure. Split hoses and leaking clamps are not good for fuel and a hot engine bay. cheers

Hi Bass, the last injectors I used in the R34GTT were; Nismo 480cc Injector 16600-RR710 There are pictures of R34GTT injectors in the Sard cattledog, but I can't find the part number specifically for R34GTT. I had heard that the 1JZ VVTi and 2JZ VVTi injectors where the same as R34GTT, their part number is 65316. You should confirm that with Hi Octane or Nengun. cheers

My guess 140 rwkw, the standard ECU mapping, at much more than standard airflow, has very rich A/F ratios and quite retarded ignition. Plus it will start to run out of injector flow at around 155rwkw and the standard fuel pump is not capable of much more. cheers

Every question you can think of has probably been answered in this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=61207 There are heaps of pictures and diagrams as well. If you have one that hasn't been asked yet, please ask away in the above thread and I will try my best to answer it. cheers

Argo for I beam conrods and Carrillo for H beam conrods cheers

The interesting part; Who owns the other one? cheers

Sorry, I don't understand the question or its relevance to the picture. As the picture shows, the top fitting on the Stagea solenoid is the input (boost supply), the bottom fitting is the output (to the wastegate). The drawing you posted shows the bottom fitting on that solenoid as the output (to the wastegate), the top fitting is the input (boost supply). The coloured dots follow that drawing. cheers

You have it plumbed the wrong way around. The top fitting on the R33GTST solenoid is the input (boost supply), the bottom fitting is the output (to the wastegate). cheers

Don't ponder....DO.... cheers

T56 = gearbox cheers

You would be amazed what you can do in ~60 seconds (the time it takes to do 1 lap) with 2 guys (you stay in the car), 2 trolley jacks and the necessary tools all laid out ready to go. You don't need to take off the wheels to change stabiliser bar settings. Organise your schedule so that you only change one end of the car during the sessions and both ends of the car between sessions. Have a talk to the organisers, tell them what you want to do. They are usually flexible with moving between sessions. Changing shock settings only takes about 10 seconds, at least you can do that during the session on your own. cheers

Alternative, Centreline, talk to Chris. cheers

Yep, stick a big screw driver in between the moveable part (radius rod, control arm etc) and an imoveable bit (chassis, sub frame etc) and work the bush around. cheers

Sorry too late, the masters are on their way to Bass to be used for templates. The pictures are pretty good, you should be able to duplicate it from them. cheers

The Stagea runs 14.7 to 1 at closed loop cruise and idle. The R32GTST race car also defaults to 14.7 to 1, but it doesn't do much closed loop running or cruising. It's been a while since I looked, but I can't remembr seeing anywhere in the Power FC mapping where you can change the closed loop aim from 14.7 (even with a Datalogit). So if yours is really at 13.2, then it's most likely not running in closed loop and the mapping changes will have some effect. But if it is running 13.2 in closed loop, then the mapping changes will have zero effect. cheers

This subject is much written about, so I will keep it brief, if you want more info do a posts search ("Sydneykid" and "N1 oil pump"). 1. N1 is for RB26's, there is no N1 stuff for RB20/25/30 2. All of the recent N1 oil pumps are designed for the large diameter (R33GTR or later) cranks and don't fit RB20/25/30 cranks. You need to buy (make) and adaptor (collar) 3. N1 water pumps actually flow less than standard RB26 water pumps. They are designed for sustained high engine rpm as encountered in circuit racing. Not driving in traffic, with the aircon flat out, on a 40 degree day. 4. N1 oil pumps do not flow any more than standard RB26 oil pumps. They simply have a higher rate pressure relief spring, so they hold a higher pressure. But only when the pump is capable of supplying sufficient flow to maintain that pressure. 5. If you want a higher flowing oil pump, then the aftermarket brands (Jun, HKS, Trust etc) are an expensive choice. Dry sump systems are not much more and give a far superior result. 6. Speaking of sumps, GTR sumps are not so good for circuit work. I wouldn't be taking a GTR anywhere near a circuit without bafffles. For any decent track time, wings, one way doors and baffles are essential. cheers

As you correctly pointed out the RB30 crank has a 13.3 mm longer stroke then the RB25. From memory an RB25 conrod is ~114 mm centre to centre. That means you would need ~100 mm rod to fit the RB30 crank to the RB25 block and still have the pistons not protrude from the block at TDC. You would need to have conrods specially made for this application (ie; not cheap). That's a rod/stroke ratio of ~1.17 to 1, and that's the problem. Many people consider the RB25/26 rod/stroke ratio to be less than optimal at 1.6 to 1. With the RB30 at 1.7 to 1 being much more desirable. A rod stroke ratio of 1.17 to 1 is unthinkable. It would place far too much side load on the conrods as they have to lean over on rotation. They would fatigue and fail very quickly. That's why OS Giken 3 litre kits for RB26's come with ~18mm block spacer (sits between the block and the cylinder head), that way they can accomodate a decent length rod. If it was easy, many many people would have done it. But it is neither easier or cheap and will not give a workable result anyway. cheers

Look at the bushes for signs of wear, frayed edges, ripped sides, crooked crush tubes etc Check for leaks, some bushes are filled with fluid. Get large screw driver and lever the bushes, check for smooth, even movement front to rear and side to side. Not floppy or jammed. Loose rear end could be HICAS, it is not your friend. cheers

Holly cow, 6 sets of 5-6 laps, what a luxury. We get 1 X 15 minute session to practise, do the set up and qualify. You need a couple of mates and within 2-3 sessions you should have it sussed. Start with a plan, write it down and make sure your mates know what they have to do. First session, select first set up, do 2 laps. make change, do 2 more laps. Second session, make change, do 2 laps, make change, do 2 more laps. Third session, make change, do 2 laps, then select the best setting you think will suite you, the track and the day. Fourth session, fine tune that setting from the third session. More front anti roll usually means less oversteer More rear anti roll usualy means less understeer Stiffer front shocks usually means more understeer Stiffer rear shocks usually means more oversteer Not the word "usually". cheers

What makes you think the heater core has karked it? It is most unusual, they are aluminium and don't usually corrode. It's not a loose clamp or split hose by any chance? If the core is split it is usually due to impact, so the damage is localised. You can fix it with epoxy, Selleys Knead It is what we use for such repairs. cheers

Let's atart off with some facts. Stageas don't understeer because they are 4wd. They understeer because Nissan designed the suspension system so that they would understeer, it's good for the Wallys. The first job is to add some caster to the front, they don't have anywhere near enough. That fixes around 50% of the understeer. Then add some more rear anti roll, the rear stabiliser bar is too small by a lot. I added ~50% more anti roll to the front (24mm solid adjustable front stabiliser bar) and ~300% to the rear (24mm solid adjustable rear stabiliser bar). Bingo, no more understeer. Moving on to 4wd, all ATTESSA systems since 1994 have held residual hydraulic pressure on the clutch pack (there is no centre differential). Pulling the fuse or the relay simply stops the hydraulic pump from working. As long as you are not doing burnouts, dyno runs or drifting, this is not a problem for short periods of time. But the hydrailic fluid is not circulating (no pump remember) so the oil in the transfer case gets hotter and finally overheats. All of the components (clutch plates and intermediate plates) are still turning, they are still connected to the wheels and to the gearbox output shaft. So there is accelerated wear due to the extreme temperature. You can buy an ATTESA controller (Duncan has them), which (even on 100% rear drive setting) still lets the hydraulic pump run and hence circulates the oil. But don't expect it to cure the understeer. cheers

If I was aiming to squeeze every last kw out of it, maybe I might be able to justify spending excess on "brand names" But for 200 4wkw I just don't see the need. Some examples; A good quality Jap Brand name 3" exhaust would be OK for 200 4rwkw and cost $1500+. But I used a "no name" R32GTST 3.25" exhaust, that owes me $450 (inc extrension for the longer Stagea chassis). The extra 0.25" covers up any deficiencies in flow compared to the 3" "brand name" exhaust. A shiny new HKS GTRS turbo would be nice for $2600, but the GCG ball bearing high flow will do the job for 200 4wkw nicely. A sidemount Trust intercooler 250X150X192 would be nice for $800, but the standard R34GTT cost less than 1/4 of that. It should do the 200 4wkw, just. If you want maximum power out of each upgrade, then buying Jap "brand names" is easier. But if you want maximum power for each $ spent, then there are better ways. As long as you are pepared to do some leg work and find out what it is that you need to achieve your power target. Horses for courses cheers