Sydneykid

Sorry what does this mean, "and the earth wire plugged into the Boost Control"?

Sorry Adam that makes no sense to me. Why do you want to change the front steering rack? It has absolutely nothing to do with HICAS.

Sorry, but that makes no sense. You pull the lower control arm forward with the radius rod to achieve increased caster. This also pulls the steering arm forward and maintains its parrallel orientation with the lower control arm. There is no additional bump steer introduced by this action. The most common cause of bump steer in a production car is excessive lowering, where the steering arm does not maintain its parrallel orientation with the lower control arm. Noting that on double wisbone suspension you can achieve additional caster by pulling the upper control arm rearwards. Similarly on strut based suspension you can move the top strut mount rearwards to increase caster. Neither of these has any effect on bump steer. So I am at a toal loss to understand why anyone would say something that is so obviously wrong. Time for a new suspension shop.

They are only worthwhile if you are going to adjust them. If you just want to put them on and forget about it, then get fixed rate bar and spend the saved money on something that you will use. Adjustable bars are only better if you ADJUST them.

Sorry, but it is racing season, Philip Island last weekend, Oran Park this weekend, Darwin in 2 weeks, Sandown 2 weeks after that and back to Oran Park the next week. That's 5 race meetings in 7 weeks in 3 states. The Stagea stuff just has to wait in line. Plus I have to test the Magic Cat (for emmisions) and to do that I need to put the 3.25" exhaust on. I am aiming for emmisions testing this week and dyno tuning next week before we go to Darwin. But it is tight and we have no room for issues.

When you buy a new engine block from Nissan/Holden it comes unstamped ie; no engine number. The idea being that you are buyinga new block to replace the old one which is broken. So you stamp the old block's engine number on the new block.

Buy new tyres:cheers:

You need an interface box, have a look on www.fc-datalogit.com

Do a search for RB30 details. There are plenty of ticks needed to fit on to a GTR, they are a 2wd block after all. Bathurst RB26, N1 block, standard crank, forged rods (usually Carrillo) and forged pistons, so nothing special. They ran an external oil pump, so it may not have an internal pump. That's a pain on a road car. The engine is ~12 years old, the chances of it having its original components is pretty slim.

This subject has been discussed so many times, try a search for a more detailed answer. 1. No way the standard R33GTST AFM is maxing out at 200 rwkw, I have seen 230 rwkw on a number of cars. 2. There is no comparison, the Power FC will get you around 20 rwkw more max power and around 25 rwkw more average power. Less fuel consumption and the car will drive nicer and the engine last longer.

The ECU switches earth not active, I suspect you are measuring an earth to earth voltage (0.15 volts). Try measuring the solenoid supply to active and you will find it OK.

Time to go to a new suspension shop, that one is out of date. More caster on the front is ESSENTIAL regardless of what is done to the rest of the suspension. More camber on the front (instead of more caster) is simply illogical, it means less tyre contact patch under braking. Caster is simply camber on demand, when you turn the steering wheel you get negative camber on the outside wheel and positive camber on the insdide, wheel which is EXACTLY what you want as is maintains the tyre contact patch (of both front tyres) when the chassis rolls. It rolls because it is going around a corner, after all that's why you turned the steering wheel in the first place. As for front stabiliser bar upgrade, absolutely the rear needs the biggest upgrade, 19mm up to 24mm is not unusual. But the front does need an upgrade too, just not quite as much, 24mm hollow to 27mm solid is the most common.

YES:cheers:

The R32's have a map sensor standard to run the boost gauge (same as an R33) but they also input that map sensor output to the ECU (R33's don't). So you can use the standard map sensor to monitor the boost and use the PFC BCK solenoid to control the boost. How did you wire your PFC BCK up?

There is no absolute value, what I do is monitor the compressor outlet air temps as I increase the boost. When you go past the turbos efficiency to produce airflow you wil see a jump in the air temps, for example; 1 bar = 50 degrees 1.1 bar = 52 degrees 1.2 bar = 55 degrees 1.3 bar = 60 degrees 1.4 bar = 75 degrees I would go back to 1.3 bar as the extra 15 degrees is going to negate any advantage power increase from the extra 0.1 bar of boost. Spot on, plus getting it out (exhaust) as well.

Hi Marc, thanks for the pad info, did you measure the disks? I usually upgrade to DBA slotted rotors when I change pads the first time, so I was thinking of doing the same to the Stagea:cheers:

First off let me say that Lumps knows what he is doing. That's a pretty good result for 9 psi, so the tuning must be damn good. Do you have the A/F ratios graph?

Boost is irrelevant, it is simply a measure of resistance to flow. As you remove the restrictions, the boost goes down. Airflow makes horsepower not boost, so the aim is to have the highest airflow at the lowest boost. I have seen them make ~300 rwkw at ~2 bar, and I have seen them make ~350 rwkw at ~1.5 bar. It all depends on how many restrictions you have removed. So forget the boost gauge and look at the inlet air temps, that will tell you when you have reached the efficiency limit of the turbos.

Why the hell would you want to delete THE most effective method of determining how much air your engine is flowing at any point in time? A MAP sensor measures pressure, not air flow, the ecu then guesses (by maths) the airflow. It can NEVER be as accurate as an AFM. All of those cars had AFM's.

Split dump is better, do a search to find out why.

Absolutely correct, it is not a good idea. I would like to tell you the best place to plumb a boost gauge, but you haven't old us what engine you have. So I can't. PS; Why do people not fill in their profile? That way we wouldn't have to keep asking.

Nope, the 2wd Skylines need larger front bars than the 4wd. The standard rear bars are way too small on both.

Hi Lucien, in a circuit racing environment we have to be the best we can within the regulations. So most of the stuff we do is for one purpose only, making the car go faster legally. Extruded honing is well known, I have been involved in Production Car racing for many years and we used to send our bits to the US for honing as there was no one in Australia doing it back then. It is effective when the component being honed is the weak link in the chain, but it is waste of time and money when there are other components negating the benefits (because they are the weak link in the chain). As for equal length, the best exhaust manifold I have seen for RB20/25's is the GTSR Group A from Nissan. It is equal length, exceptionally well made and utilises the superior (for circuit racing) low/rear mount. A true work of art. The set of (twin) equal length low mount manifolds we use on the race GTR was made by our race team fabricator as we had specific needs as required by the Improved Production regulations ie; turbo restrictors.

Hi Roy what I have found is the Whiteline camber adjustable bushes on minimum (~1.5 degreee neg) give good street handling and wear. Then rotate them to maximum (~3.0 degrees neg) when you jack the car up to change the tyres for the track day. The min/max adjustment doesn't require any fancy measuring once you have set it up.

This subject has been discussed to death, do a search.