Sydneykid

The exhaust system confuses me, I just replaced a 3.25" mild steel cat back that weighed 22kgs with a titanium 4" that weighs 5kgs. I don't see how a stainless system could weigh 6kgs, the old centre muffler weighs more than that on its own. Alloy wheel nuts are good for 600 grams, not good weight for dollar. Alloy brake rotor hats, saved 1.5kgs each, not bad value. And the backing plates, not much weight but better cooling as well. The one piece braided hoses were lighter than the 2 piece rubber ones, mostly because of the heavy steel fitings. I have weighed a carbon fibre bonnet and there was barely 1kg in it compared to the alloy GTR one, not very good value. Removing the HICAS is definitely worth it, saves weight and handles better, very good value for money. There are no tricks here, just take it all off, start at the rear rack and work through to the front, follow the hydraulic lines, removing as you go. Engine fan and clutch, the electric one was a kilo or 2 lighter. Loose the HVAC, the air con compressor weighs heaps. All alloy radiator, the PWR one was noticeably ligher, I didn't compare the weights though. Rear wiper, I haven't removed ours yet, glad I reminded myself. Seat belts, those retractors are heavy. The NVH weights around the rear supension are remarkably heavy, around 6kgs all up if I remember rightly. I have changed a few bolts to alloy, been doing it one sizes at a time, they are expensive so not great value per kg Next on my list is a one piece alloy/carbon fibre tailshaft, the 2 piece steel and centre bearing are heavy. It's a flywheel (like the wheels) so it counts twice. Engine pulleys, I haven't found a full set that I like yet, still looking. Glass is very heavy, I wish I could swap it for plastic but the class regs don't allow it. Moving stuff is always good value, GTR's have terrible weight distribution. Moving stuff into the boot or from the driver side to the passengers side are both worthwhile. Battery in the boot is the most obvious, power steering reservoir to the boot, fuel pressure regulator to the boot, remote oil filter rearwards, catch can in the boot, etc etc

You need to do a search, there are plenty of peoples' opinions on Teins posted. My opinion is well know, they would have to pay me the $1700 to take take them of their hands.

High/front mount is not as good as rear/low mount for weight distribution and centre of gravity.

RB25DE's don't have block mounted oil squirters.

Ahh, traction control at work. I had heard this was a problem on the dyno, but I have never actually seen it. Maybe try pulling the ABS and A-LSD fuses. You will still get a warning light or two, but the traction control shouldn't interfer. Please let us know how you get on, this is bound to happen to someone else.

It's a common occurance, I have broken the one in the R32GTST race car. It has an OS Giken twin plate in it, so not excessively heavy. Broke through the spot welds. The first sign was long pedal, needed to be depressed further to declutch. It just got slowly worse until no clutch. Not only is it hard to get out, it is efen uncomfortable lying upside down, with the steering wheel in your crutch, the seat base in your crack, your feet on the head rest and your head under the brake pedal. Talk about rush of blood to the brain.....:headspin:

You can buy them off the shelf, no need for a custom one:cheers:

I always plumb it into the manifold, where the standard boost gauge goes is a useful spot:cheers:

Trust turbos are made by Mitsubishi, maybe check around for some Evo turbos. I use the gaskets as the checking template, cheaper than buy a turbo and finding it doesn't fit and easier to carry around than a manifold. You can't use a diesel turbo, they don't hand the much higher exhaust gas temperatures from a petrol engine.

11.7 and 116 mph = ~250 rwkw (that's on a roller dyno) If it is a hub dyno, add 15 rwkw (no wheels or rollers). 265 rhkw (rear hub kilowatts) Note no mention of camshafts:cheers:

Harder springs = less traction:cheers:

Hi Ian, I can't hear the Stagea turbo whine at high rpm either. But I sure as hell can hear it at 2,200 rpm in fourth, going up a hill when I lean on the throttle and it makes 0.7 bar. All else is very quite just, the sound of turbos in the mist.

Our Stagea now has 110,000 k's and is going strong. The R32GTST has close to 200,000 k's, and it still performs. Don't let the K's worry you, as long as the price is right.

R32GTR's do not retain hydraulic pressure in the ATTESSA system when the fuse is removed. R33/34GTR's do have residual pressure, so you can't just pull the fuse (or turn it off with a switch). Stage S1 is the basically same ATTESSA system as R33 and Stagea S2 is the same as R34. So you can't just pull the fuse (or turn it off with a switch). This is one reason why R32GTR's tolerate a larger rear end slip angle (oversteer) then R33/34. Since there is residual pressure, the response time for 4wd is much reduced. I can speak from 4wd dyno experience, the only way to ensure 100% 2wd from a Stagea at all times is to remove the front driveshaft.

Sorry Duncan, the 6 car garaging is full. And it looks like another GTR is coming..................:headspin: Like Duncan, I have a car for weekends, it's called a race car. So I don't have to drive a compromise car during the week, it's set up nicely for the street. That makes sense to me, but having a hack to drive around just so the road Skylines does less K's doesn't add up. If my road Skyline was that bad to drive everyday, unrealiable and expensive to maintain then the compromise is screwed, it's not a road car anymore. That's the secret, not going too far and stuffing up a perfectly good daily driver.

The Stagea has done 30,000 k's and all it has received is fuel and the regular services. It tows race cars, goes interstate and carries engines and other heavy stuff around. It is getting a few mods along the way of course. The questions; 1. Why on earth would I want to drive a Hiace instead of a Skyline? I don't own a Skyline to look at it, I own it to drive it. 2. I am not going to keep this Skyline for ever, somewhere between 2 and 4 years and I will move on. I don't need or want to be driving the same car for longer than that. Best summed up as ......... I am not a car collector, I am a car driver. PS; Plus I only have a 6 car garage, where the hell would I put another car?

To quote a famous Australian colloquialism " tell 'im he's dreamin' " :kick:

A few standard procedures for pad replacement, I always; 1. clean the pistons of the old pad dust, dirt and grit that accumulates there 2. clean and refit the stainless steel backing plates 3. clean and re-lube the sliding shafts and ramps (if they are single spot callipers) 4. clean and smooth the pad retaining shafts (if they are 4/2 spot callipers) 5. retension all the calliper retaining bolts with a tension wrench 6. remove and clean the rotors, not just the braking surface, but behind the hat where it seats on the hub. I also give them a light hit with some course emmery. The concept is to remove any particles from the contact areas that can cause rocking or vibration. That's what most often makes brakes noisy, high frequency vibration. It is most unusual for pads to cause noise from their friction action on the rotor surface.

I feel like a CD on replay........ Put the rear springs in the front and buy new rear springs, around 200 to 250 lbs per inch. Sell the rediculously hard front spings to some poor unsuspecting fool. Cost = almost zero,l if you do the fitting yourself.

I was going to get RSF 00R, but settled on something else.

I will take some tonight and post them up.

Do the numbers......... Rego and 3rd part insurance for the shitter will cost say $1,000 If the shitter gets 10 litres per hundred kilomtres Compared to the Skyline that gets 15 litres per hundred kilometres Fuel costs say $1.00 a litre for the shitter and $1.10 a litre for the Skyline You would have to do more than 24,000 k's a year in the shitter to get your money ($1000) back. I don't know about you, but I couldn't drive a shitter 2,400 k's a year let alone 10 times that much.

And that would be for which model of Skyline?

We have 5 cars, all have Bendix Ultimates and have some years, never had a problem. Don't blaim the pad for poor installation:cheers:

Australian Performance Cars - Qualifying Qualifying Q6 30 Mins Scheduled Start 10:45 Page# 1 Issue# 1 Start Sat May 14 10:45 Elapsed Time 30:00 ________________________________________________________________________________ _______________ Pos Car Entrant Driver Vehicle Cap CL Laps Fastest...Lap 1 34 Delphi/King Springs Mark King Mitsubishi Lancer Ev 3395 11 11 1:04.2313* 2 4 Readymix Gary Young Mitsubishi Lancer Ev 3395 21 20 1:04.4006 3 21 Century 21 Real Estate Garry Holt Mitsubishi Lancer Ev 3395 18 4 1:04.5436 4 11 Rondo Building Services Barry Morcom Mitsubishi Lancer Ev 3395 23 21 1:04.8141 5 22 Jack Hillermans Smash Chris Alajajian Subaru WRX STi 3390 18 10 1:04.8182