Fitzpatrick Speed Works

Ok heres a post to help you sort the BS from the info you need. -You MUST keep the bearing caps with the corresponding spot or this will happen everytime. - with GTR's you must be ULTRA attentive when pulling down the caps, you must take it slowly and do it correctly otherwise bang, snapped cam. - You DEFINATELY can't use different bearing caps without tunnel boring otherwise, SNAP. -You need to ensure correct torque settings are addhered to. GTR cams are cast forgings, majority of them are not true billets, actually I have not used any true billets in any of my engines, and they are very brittle items that will snap if mis-managed. I highly doubt you head is warped however this is easy to check, run a deck hight measurer on you head and measure the heights of the cam caps relative to the cylinder deck. Cheers

cant imagine it being any cheaper than $500.

nitriding is a very tricky process, especially to achieve the results the standard factory nitriding has achieved, its a waste of time and you probably ruin 1 or 2 cranks to get the process right, would you want to run the risk???? I am talking from experience, and anyway the crank wont need this if under 10 thou which it is!!!

They will handle that power, great gearbox!!! Speaking also from experience, at those levels...

never machine a nissan crank much further than 10 thou as the side clearances will really run out, you need to radius then you will start going through the factory nitrating and you will have alot of probs. Generally I would say its ok but what bearing you going to get for 7 thou, you will find you will need to run to 10 more than likely. As stated good idea to fit a collar and a bigger oil pump, buy the time you do all this at a guess your machining costs are going to be up around $600, probs a better option to get a new one, but hey its up to you can be done.

can recommend TNT on nearly all things car related from engines to wheels never had a drama.

might help you but the piston brand and rod brand may help make a sale.. they llok to be CP and Argo rods... Good luck with sale.

im not after the unit just the face, thanks anyway

As said above im after a R32 climate control face (the removeable item) in good condition, please call me on 0407355454 or PM me cheers

I do this on rb30/26 combos in GTRs, get rid of the oil cooler/warmer, just buy a rb26 remote oil cooler boss and tap into that and put the senders in that....

kNow of a r32 in good condition with a spun bearing not running otherwise good he wants around $15K

Dont bother the block isnt the week link, you wont see much advantage for the amount of work needed. If you are running a single turbo brace that back to the block to help the exhaust, and the other easy thing is an engine dampner, that would suffice, as mentioned the blocks dont crack by themselved its usually casue the have a conrod through the side of them or a piston!! Cheers

moroso make an external wet sump oil pump prices out at around 1100. then you will need to make a backet and the pulleys

On the motors I have built I have always undone the backing plate and put allen key bolts in it with the high grade locktite, the backing plate coming loose is as big a problem as the gear cracking, which only seems to happen on N1 pumps. There is a thread on it in the general section but after that a friend of mine who works for the CSIRO did a few quick tests and as per suspesions the N! gear is a harder metal but probably more brittle, this could be a heat treatment issues or a number of other variables. I will be sticking with R34 standard pumps from now on!!!

YES. It will fit provided you havent changed the crank collar to the larger one, ie. standard rb30 crank. The only difference between the pumps is the gear number and width internally, the outside dimensions and ect are the same so you will be alright. I would though suggest a r33 one as a good upgrade as I am sure you are aware of this....

glad you enjoyed it. ITs great sport that has come along way in oz in the last few years. I remember when I was a little kid you would do good if you saw one good pass out of a whole meeting, and rarely a side by side pass as the cars were unreliable... These days they have more power, go faster, and have more passes its only getting better... The more support we show these guys the more racing we will see, thanks for posting your experiences!!

you might find this is the attessa pump not the fuel pump!!

Apexi bar and plate 600x300x120mm. out flows HKS drag, and greedy drag cooler both are similar dimensions not the `50mm thick ones. SO in my opinion they are a good option.

Wanted drivers side door handle in working condition. Doesnt need to be a specific colour and I dont need any of the locking mechanism either. Please PM me or reply here. Thanks Daniel

Yeah mate change those to m12 that would actually be a really good idea might even change that on the design

A standard plenum provides significantly more air to the cylinders 3 and 4 thus they will be more likely to run lean. In a front facing plenum design believe it or not number 6 will receive the most airflow even though it is furthest away it is the most inline with the incoming air, cylinders one and 2 for example must draw the air to change its incoming path whereas 6 get it shoved down its throat figuratively speeking. standard plenum modified to be front facing will be a lot more of performance disadvantage and riskier at over 300rwkw than a standard item. Cheers

yes this may work shane however if you go to m12 at least 3 of the bolts in the diff side will have ot be sacrificed as there is not enough meat on block to go all the way to a m12 bolt!!! the clamping pressure will be maintained as long a 40% of a bolt heads surface, and thats not meaning the hole bolt heads surface just the clamping area, is in contact with a the clamping surface... while the sump is heavy there is far beyond adequate bolting points the main reason for so many bolts is not to make it stronger but to prevent the sump leaking, its to pull the surface down evenly and prevent air or in this case liquid gaps. In theory and in accordance with Australian design standards you could easily hold that sump to the bottom of that motor with 4 bolts correctly positioned and pressured, you wouldnt, but there is adequate bolts there, the slop as you call it you may create will have no detramental effects on the strength or effectiveness of the sump bolting to the plate. Cheers

There seems to me to be some great inconsistancy's with the GTR sumps.... I have one here that I fitted last night and all the holes where perfect except the very back 2 were out about 1.5mm. I grabbed another sump and the 2 that shane has pictured were out.( not that this is a problem as shanes 2 need drilling out as per the instructions and you will easily get that to line up)... I also have mercury saying that none of theres fit on a project they are working on, however the sump they are trying to fit has been heavily welded with an custom extension and I believe it wasnt done with the sump bolted to the block and thus has warped the sump, we are talking precise measurement it wouldn't take much!!! When I first started these plates they were just pilot holes and people had to drill them to size, countersink them and tap them, this was to try in attempt to rid these inconsistancy's, however people where struggling understanding how things went so it was easier for me to do these things for them. Although I still run into differences from person to person. Now, the plates stay the same and as mentioned some people have problems with one bit, others with other bits; if it were consistantly the same thing I could easily fix the problem but its not... this makes it very hard, because if I change the design based on one persons issues, it throws it out usually for the next person adn this has been the experience I have had over the last few months, to fix this I have gone back to an original design that I have personally fitted to 5 cars. If you measure all the bolt spacing you will notice they are spot on exactly the same, I have done this in an effort to split the difference, even though sometimes measureing the sump they are different from sump to sump, doing it all the same spacing as per measurements splits the differences,then each individual case can modify to suit. AS a note the sump holes are at 10.8mm drill them to 12mm there is plenty enough meat there,with this done I am sure there will be wiggle room so they will all line up. Not having a go at anyone just answering some questions with logical explanations, and getting this response out there, as AM performance never even told me he had issues, telling others that arent the source wont get any problems fixed but obviously he used his ingenuity and the issues were sorted. Remember the method I use to fit them is not the be all and end all and that it is a sytem that requires some engineering and mechanical experience to understand, and a process that need some hands on mods in most cases to make work, that said I am striving to make it as simple as possible and am happy to fix problems that become consistant, which I have in the past and am happy to do in the future. Shane any oterh issues let me know mate only to happy to have a chat with you. Cheers Daniel

nothing wrong with rb20's, just not worth doing up to the extent that you will run 11's when you can have a car with a much higher average power due to the fact it is a greater displacement, that will crack the same times and be far far faster on average on the streets. As an example I have built a rb20 in a vl for a mate has 240rwkw and doesnt hit boost till 4500RPM and drives like a piece of crap the rest of the time sure its fast but in a stock gtst through the windies i can punish him, it takes a good driver to keep a big car like that always above 5g, you eventually get caught out!!!! Roy your car is not the norm on the r32 rb20 front how much developement has your car seen over the years, and if you drove a r32 with a rb30 in it with the same level of mods even you would be impressed!!!

A rb20 that gets a r32 into the 11's would be fun to drive on the streets???? Can you say LAG??? A standard vl would punish you from a rolling start at medium revs and out of nearly any corner!!! Torque wins races but thats just what I have heard!! ahaha back to your small bores newbie ahahaha