Fitzpatrick Speed Works

CAR IS SOLD, THANKS Hi all, Up for sale is my blue merc. It is an immaculate car and I planned on keeping it once I sold the white one but I need to sell it due to financial difficulties. I am the second owner of the car, and prior to me purchasing the car it had been in storage for 12 years. The guy that had it before me serviced it with Mercedes. The interior is immaculate, the engine runs beautifully and it is reliable, I have taken it to the coast and to syndey and it didn't miss a beat. I have spent some money on it, new front shocks, calipers all rebuilt, new bushes, gearbox service, carburetor rebuild, other bits an pieces, painted the roof in blue candy and lined and scrolled the car. For the age there are few cars around that run as good and in as good as condition for the money. Asking $3000 ONO phone 0418 327 427

im after a r32 head light switch if anyone has please call me on 0407355454 to discuss price and postage...

Hi all, I need to sell my daily driver, got to many cars apparently, and a few bills to pay. Really not keen to sell after a long road getting the car to a really reliable state. It has just passed Dickson RTA (but with raised springs). alot of work done getting it to be a fully road worthy vehicle new gear box, new tail shaft, new bushes, new brakes, new computer, new filters and lubracants, new leads plugs and ignition system, new white walls, new horn, chassis strengthening for steering box. I have just put all the scroll work on and the car turns alot of heads. This is a really good car for the money, I mean think of what else you can buy for this much with so much ol skool appeal? I am after $2000 for the car. Contact me on 0418 327 427

Justo and Rob at Detail FX are rated by Megaires as being in their top 5 detailers in Australia, basically we are pretty lucky to have guys this good in Canberra!! The best thing is they are still willing to do normal washes and cleans still. They do my old mans FC (25K paint job) my brothers car (35K paint job) and have people coming form all over Australia to bring their show cars to them to colour rub and paint correction, their rep amoung the show circuit speaks for itself. Cant recommend them highly enough!!!

good pistons with good rings. The moly top ring is far harder than N1 rings as I have filed both!!! N1 rings are a waste of money as are most things N1 in my opinion.

Your combo is a recipe for lunched boxes, haha no disrespect just as you are obviously aware the standard item isnt going to be up to that turbo, clutch or diff!!! PPG from personal experience are awesome. OS are good and economical so make a good option and would suit your purpose. Trust had no personal experience so I wont comment on hear say!!

a rear wheel drive correctly setup will be faster, as it is far lighter!! But can be done especially if you would be willing to manual control the 4wd via either a master cylinder or an electronic device that feeds constant voltage to the attessa pump. If you want the computer as well thats where you will hit a really big wall.

from 350rwhp-800rwhp, as you stated depends on alot of factors, let us know your circumstances may be able to give a better guestimate!

as builder of many a a12 engine I can guarantee RB bolts are nothing even the same. As mentioned as long as you match the category bolt you have to the clamping force required I think you will be sweet. As a guide look on the ARP site to there bolt that most matches the one you are going to use and see their recommended torque settings Dont forget to use a moly grease to tighten with. Cheers

I have just made my GTR full time rwd to test a motor I am building, as I didnt want to change the tailshaft and leave the gtr box I did it all so I can change it all back. You need the front driveshaft to hold the hub bearings in, so I simply put my front shafts in the lathe and parted them off at the abs sensor and bolted them back into the hub. I then cut the diff off a gtr sump to make it rear wheel drive only and it still works as per factory. I also cut the transfere case off a GTR and took all the 4wd stuff out then re welded up the whole.

You may need to resend your message again I think my inbox was full as I havent received it yet. Cheers

yeah no worries I am about to make one for myself so I can make you one also at the same time. I will be designing it all in cad, and using a willwood master cylinder, all aluminium naturally. Just working on the design as I want it to look as nice a possible.

I was right then, it is an auto!!

have a look at this GTR in thailand, awesome photo gallery too. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2133988/1

looks the goods, need some specs, almost sounded auto with a smal transbrake.

or just do leg press on the left leg alot more at the gym. 05U in the part number denotes GTR, it probs is for a GTR, Nissan just have some whacked prices sometimes like the front bar lip is $400+, but a head gasket is $52. They are all over the shop.

Nick having used a few different brands over the years heres a little wrap up I have made FERREA are far and away the best.... NAPREC are bigger being 1.5mm oversized but the trumpet angle is the same as standard, around 16 degrees, now this is far from optimal and something nissan could have done better, as the greater the angle, the more flow. They are still good though and do as well as the FERREA's in flow testing just a hassle to order them. Haven't used Nitto or whatever, but I have used Ferrea's a few times and they are good quality at a good price and have 20 degree angle. Manley are awesome but you can only get them in blanks, getting them to make customs for you is like having a baby, it takes a long time there is a lot of pain in the arse and crotch but you get a good result at the very end!!! Hope this helps

You definately dont scrap from the exhaust side, that would be a fatal mistake for your engine.... YOur engine spins clockwise spitting oil off the crank into the right side of the sump not the left (exhaust) you would have bigger probs than you have now. Not trying to be rude or having a go but the way you have explained things sounds like you need alot more knowledge before attempting a dry sump setup, I can appreciate thats why you are here asking questions but to do a proper dry sump setup requires a fair bit of understandin especially relating to RB's. There are many things you can do to make it work better than you have proposed like secondar oil feed to ensure even dispersion of oil pressure to all 6 main bearings, and also ensure even scavenging. As mentioned there is scraper design, quite cruicial, also vacuum can be achieved. I would recommend highly a 4 stage as to scavenge out of the head. THe tank design and placement are important, you cant beat a moroso or peterson tank as they de-airate the oil as well. Crank case ventilation needs to be more than adequate especially if running vacuum. I dont recommend your idea of running the belt behind the balancer either as the pump will sit too rear wards and foul on the engine mounts. A good 10 litre sump and proper trap doors will fix you problems I can assure you, maybe an option as the dry sump route is definately an involved one to do correctly.

These valves have been sold sorry for the delayed response guys. Regards

I buy ours through greenline or nengun. I have one on order at the moment through perfecty run in sydney however they are out of stock till july.

Nismo Coppermix comp twin. Cant beat this clutch should handle that power and doesnt rattle and is as easy to use as a standard clutch....Cant recommend these clutches enough.

wont fit over bluebird rims know that for sure have tried it myself on a 1600 with r33 gtst brakes and a 296 rotor, there is only 4mm between the caliper and the rim on a r32 gtr rim which is 16"!

4th commonly wears out the synchro, however the biggest problem is actually third gear when you have some power people shred the gear to pieces. Nissan made an error with third gear counterweight and when shifting quickly 3rd doesnt engage the gear completely and shears off the end, very normal for gtr gearboxes. They are like any other gearbox really, often arent serviced, often abused, and used on cars with power outputs well outside what they are engineered for, in saying those points I think they stack up well. Sorry to hear yours is stuffed probably better off fixing the one you have though and rebuilding it rather than going second hand at least that way you will know exactly what you have, a new gearbox essentially. Cheers

$70 for both braided lines, its low but you said offers.

short answer is no, cause the oil pickup is in a slightly diff position as well as the 6mm bolts are not all drilled. Best best is to simply get a 4wd diff and cut the diff off, or I can send you the sump layout and you could get it laser cut and make one from scratch (not really that hard). If you do decide to go the cut method Id be keen for the spares out of the front diff.