Fitzpatrick Speed Works

Hey all, Just thought I would let you guys know and plead for your support in the Street Machine Magazine car of the year award that my brother in his Datsun 1600 has been nominated for. We want to show all the street machine die hards that no matter what the car if you have done it right people will appreciate it, Aaron has copped alot of **** off the SM crew over the years with comments like, it will never be in this mag cause its missing 4 cylinders, and I believe on one occasion was told that No body likes Datsuns, so we really want to show them!!! The most important thing is if he wins there will be a huge KEG party with all invited to piss up to the success that will be a huge thankyou to you guys and others for there support. I know theres some people on here that buy street machine and we would really appreciate the support. So buy the mag rip out the voting slip and send her in. Thanks all. Daniel

YOu cannot compare the microtech to the Motec even for a second and you are kidding yourself if you think they are similar.... A microtech will do a shit job of controling your 1200cc+ injectors you will need for that engine to make that power, its input points will make it very hard to control timing and injectors at 6k when you turbo starts spooling cause thats the size of turbos you will need to make that power, so in a very short amount of time you will have a smouldering mess of your hands. You will also need to grout fill the block, to stop it splitting which means NO street time for you...you will need to make a mains cap brace and definately get a forged crank made, and some serious rods if you intend on spinning any rb30 past 8.5k. Your head work alone with all the correct gear that will allow the engine to go to 10k RPM should owe you around 6-8g that leaves you 7 left for the bottom end that will be eaten up by the 6K+ custom forged crank, suddenly 15k is 1k and you havent got rods, pistons, machining, balancer, oil pump, head gasket, water pump, aluminium pulleys, no fuel system, no clutch or gearbox up to the task, or an engine management system.... Budget at least 30k and you might be close may need even more, otherwise you are dreaming you will make 550rwkw, rev to 10k and have an engine that doesnt grenade itself in the first 1000kms. Cheers,

KEas are in Melbourne so are Hugo Race Glides!!

Who put you onto this lenco idea?? Its stupid crazy overkill for a rb30!!! Esentially a 3 speed lenco is 3 gearboxes and is essentially an assisted shift manual. Even if you are running lets be ridiculous and say 1500hp out of a rb30, a dudenbear built or Al's or other top name brand from the states can build a th400 to handle that as its torque that kills the box and a 3 litre doesnt have as much torque as a 1500 8.6l chev, and they can make them to run on 1200hp chevelles etc!! Its a cheaper option, CMRS make adapters to suit rb series engines and parts for them are readily available. Instead of about $20000 you would be looking at around 6g!!

Thats correct Dave, we have seen them on one particular example hold 310rwkw for an extended period of time without any problems, as stated when we have pulled down the boxes the only difference in the diameter of the input shaft and obviously the gearing within the box is slightly different!!

Hard block that hole, and that particular water jacket, run and external high pressure feed straight from your oil pump and you will go along way to solving the problem of cracked blocks!!!

I dont know about other markets but in canberra a decent respray same colour no edges ie door jams under the bonnet etc will be around 2-4g depending on the quality of materials etc. A half decent colour change round about 5-7g, and a show job candy's and the like will start at around 8 and go from there. these prices are based on my experiences I know there is cheaper but this is what you should expect to pay for a more quality job that will come with some garauntees behind the workmanship!!

Yeah wait till the frost gets at it also!! hahaha 240k all the way, plans for the car are rb26, r33 box, r32 rear cradle, with the gtr flares and some watanabes. Just need to get it regoed first so we can get it on the books with the engineer so all these mods will still pass when the car actually gets finished. I picked up the car a few years ago for $50, been sitting around while I have collected parts to do the conversion. I am leaving it looking like sh.t at first when the engine goes in...sleeper spec!!! hahaha, should be an interesting project dont want big power just want it to handle.. Already took her rally bashing a few years ago actually managed to break the diff, good value!!!

Also resprayed my GTR so icould do all the engine bay etc the same!!

heres a car I painted properly!!

the phots actually make it look better than real life if you can believe that!!haha Had to be painted within 2 days or I had to start another new inspection for rego, so out came the roller. its not pretty by any stretch of the imagination but it does the job. I can paint a car properly I swear, thought I would share something that had a few customers laughing as they walked into the shop!!haha

Okay first start with a car that once had a vinyl roof. You have removed this roof only to realise it looks worse now you need to match up the colours!!! Rego is a bitch they want the car to look more presentable!! Introducing the 10 min paint job. First buy some low sheen house acrylic, then a roller and you are away!! Heres some pics of the success story!! Simply brush touch in the parts you were to lazy to mask and your done!!

rb25 turbo box, the rb20 box wont handle anything over 250rwkw for to long!!

You can get buses that will connect to maranello from bologna, verona or even Milan or Venice. You will have to connect with more than one bus so take special notes of the bus times especially when returning at night to often over there I got caught out because the last bus left a particualr station at 10.30pm and my bus arrived there at 10.45 and this was the last bus of the night!!! Do you speak Italian? If not try to get it all organised days in advance as just rocking up the day to the station etc could make it really hard for you. The ferrari museum is ok, just near here is also the Lambo factory which is really cool, and also in the area is maseratti and the ducatii factory

FOr the 30 mins it takes to check the balance we always do it!! I have never put the screws on the round side always on the flats, dont think it matters as mentioned there a precautionary measure. We dont need a freezer in canberra just leave them outside in the morning in winter in canberra and bingo you have a crank thats -4 in temp!!!hahaha

hold me to it all you like, an quad rotor or even a 20b in a full tube chassis car have struggled in the past getting into the 6 sec time zone and these are full on race cars, fiberglass everything and again TUBE CHASSIS. I stand by it till the dying day you will never see a full bodied GTR ( ie standard sus, body parts etc) with 4wd and a rb26 run a six!!!

if you can do a 6 in a full bodies GTR with a rb and 4wd i will eat my hat!!

when we do our we oil bath the collar also so its a little tighter on the tolerance (heat bath etc), but yeah as mentioned, machine the old drive off the crank, tolerance fit the new one, and drill grub screws on the flats of the drive ensuring they are bellow deck height, lock tite them in and your away.

Paul if you come on here and have a dig we all love it but we need more info so we can all work out who these said parties are so we can join in the ridicule. Mate Fell for you not baggin you. Its good to vent it sometimes, and yes this person sounds like a tool. Cheers, Dan

I took it off this morning, had a little revamp. Sly ones from you!!!hahaha We blew that photo up and made a banner out of it for his 21st it was golden!! Send me a pm talked to ray bout the stoode, there will need to be a lot of sacrifices I will fill in the details later.

I think you have all forgotten the best 6 for drag racing in the world, the L28!!! haha

ca18's are for boys real mean race ca16e's!!!!

Sure have on my brothers datto with the supercharger SR20 s14b vvt low port head: (std) Inlet: 125cfm Exhaust: 111cfm (vvt not activated) Sr20 s13 non vvt High port: (std) Inlet: 129cfm Exhaust : 114cfm With standard valves we got aarons up to 165cfm on the inlet, and 148 on the exhaust thats around a 35% increase, lots and lots of hours though, and absolutely huge cams!! Fj's flow really well.

A few more side notes for those interested. The rb26 is one of the highest flowing heads we have tested in terms of cfm for the inlet, now most production cars run at around 70-80% effeciency on the exhaust side but the rb26 is down there, lot of this has to do with the big lump on the inside of the port, so it can be fixed. I would expect up to 10cfm increase on the rb25 with vvt activated. The 2jz head is a real strong perfromer however the inlet manifold is garbage so in real world terms i dont think it would be as strong as indicated here. How is saying the 1jz head outperfroms the 2jz is an idiot the cam timing and lift is lower for starters! The best factory head we have run at factory specs is definately the early evo mitsu heads with the inlet and exhaust flowing within 5% of each other, and flowing from memory around 130cfm. Like gary has eluded to testing on a bench fro max number is like a dyno comp. it doesnt matter if you make 30 peak hp more if you dont start making power till 6g when the guy who came second starts making good power at 3.5g, his car is always going to feel and be quicker. When looking at these numbers bear the whole system in mind ie. inlet manifold design, and exhaust manifold design, room for improvements, and how they work in conjunction with a sum of other parts! Cheers. Daniel

sorry gary heres your info All heads checked with no manifolds either side, and trimmed ram tubes to suit each head. All checked with standard lift as per standard cams. Bare ports, with exhaust flowing out! Rb25 wasnt a neo and the variable valve timing wasnt activated for the test so that is a significant factor for the rb25 head right there. In no way was I trying to swing any arguements they are just the raw figures. In personal choice the rb26 head is the go as the inlet design is so far superior to the 2jz but the exhaust seriously lacks in standard form, as with anything these can all be modded but I am not giving away the figures we were able to pull out of the rb26 head. would shock a few people here with just how huge of a potential these can flow, but then you will get the ney sayers that will argue head porting a turbo is a waste of time or you lose down low torque etc etc.