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I'm hopefully going to come and spectate.. anyone heading from the North Shore down??

K - bit of an update.. Trialed with some 1200grit wet/dry.. got rid of the scratches.. used some autosol and scratch x to buff it out.. however I think the scratch x is still a bit rough and i've got very fine matte finish.. Need to get something finer and buff them out.. Over all - great way to get rid of slightly deeper scratches but need to work out how to get the matte finish out..

Sorry for the late reply.. Mine is really loud on acceleration/deceleration.. so whenever you put load on it really.. You could look at recoing the gearbox.. no point replacing an input shaft bearing and that's it as they need to remove the front bell housing off.. $400 labour to pull it down.. $300 labour to reco gearbox + parts.. 2nd hand R33 gearbox - try $1400 in unknown state.. so see how annoying it is.. Than again.. with these things you never know what it could be.. maybe goto a gearbox specialist and get a recommendation.. With the clutch in.. e.g. foot on pedal.. and free revving it - can you hear it??.. Also - in 1st/2nd.. rolling down a hill with the clutch in.. can you hear it??..

Glad to hear you sorted everything out.. nothing worse than deciding to sell your car..

there isn't a workshop manual for R33 - only the R32 one exists.. all you can get for the R33 is the owners manual and the engine manual..

What type of noise is it.. rumbling?.. whining??.. Sounds like it's probably on the input shaft bearing if it's when clutch is out in neutral.. Mines currently got a similar issue, however 20x worse.. sounds like i've got straight cut gears..

Stan (Satanic) has one fitted in his R34 GT-T.. maybe see if he has any thoughts on it..

panel beaters managed to take mine off and not replace it.. bastards oh well.. how much are they from nissan

11 hours.. and I doubt they had their top guy doing it.. did they have the apprentice doing it.. Sounds like they took someone for a ride.. i'd expect 5 hours MAX..

why is it that smart ass's like u come n here an an cause sh^t, the BOV aint that big mate. these are serious questions an id appreciate serious answers if not dont bother posting, he's actually quite correct regarding the BOV.. ALOT of people have problems with their cars stalling and backfiring because of them.. So maybe think before having a go at people.. Does it do it when the car is warmed up - all the time.. or just intermittently??

Good feeback on the Antz.. is yours the full turbo back? what cat have you put in with it??

Man.. thats 3 cars in 2 weeks.. good luck finding it.. hope you had insurance + an alarm..

So has anyone had a chance to test the dB of them? still interested..

Putting the turbo on shouldn't have that happen.. have you checked your BOV whether it be stock or not.. sounds like the normal BOV issue.. however you haven't said anything.. about it.. if the AFM is dirty it could be dumping heaps of fuel in?.. not sure..

Lingering - quick question - did you have an alarm/immobiliser.. from the sounds of it you didn't?? Just checking.. you might have said it on the first page - but i'm too lazy to check.. If not - you will need one to get comprehensive insurance.. first 2 things anyone that buys a car should get - best $3000 you could ever spend on a car.. seeing as it's better to have one than have it stolen..

Awesome photos..

I believe the accident and the telegraph pole was a purple S14

I'll make sure I keep an eye out in the lower north shore.. Good luck with it.. And - sorry to say it - but please make sure you insure your next car.. I hope this one turns up ditched somewhere cos someone was joy riding..

Doesn't mean it isn't the clutch.. are you dumping it - or slipping it..

So random.. sometimes it links to the page.. other times the index.. Downloading now!!

I got a fully sealed unit for mine when it went flat.. it's similar size to the one that came out - but minus the breather whole.. Unless you have a huge stereo - don't get suckered in on paying $300 for a battery

Thanks for the feedback everyone.. Looks like i'll be heading in the right direction with some wet and dry.. start rough.. work to finer.. than polish the jebesus out of it lol.. I'm currently at work stupid public holidays - so i'll have to pick up all the stuff in a couple of days I guess.. and give it a bit of a go.. I'll give everyone an update when I get a chance to polish them up.. hmmm brasso eh.. Ol Mate thanks for the detailed info - it sounds like people have had to do this before.. I should probably get the panelbeaters to fix them, but I just don't trust them.. they did it in the first place.. do you recommend putting anything with the water when sanding? or just plain water??

Glass is MUCH better for cleaning and maintaining.. and probably easier to polish.. K - I spent an hour today just trying some stuff out.. 1st - use Autosol polish which is quite a course polish.. this seemed to get rid of some of the scratches and the paint shit that was on there.. I than went over the top with Scratch-X This has improved some parts of the light, but I think I need to get some sand paper and get rid of some of the shit on there and see how it goes.. worried i'll scratch them and not be able to get the cleared up.. once scratched.. that could be it..

There is also some 280MR which were SII R33 with a bit more power in them.. Also 40th Anniversary R33 - not much difference.. just different bar and some other little extras.. Type M is pretty much all of them I thought..

Saliya, If you can - can you break this down a bit further.. 2nd, 3rd, 4th synchros + gasket set from Nissan - under $400 R+R gearbox - $0 (self) New thrust bearing - $50ish New internal bearing set - $300ish (not $200, were unable to get from regular supplier) Workshop labour to disassemble/check/reassemble box - $450 You said - R+R - $0 - do you mean it cost you nothing to pull it down and put it back in.. not quite sure what you mean.. $450 - was that pulling it all apart, putting in new synchros & re-pressing the bearings?? Seems like you did alright..