Dale FZ1

GCG offer a rebuild using the stock core - retains OEM oil and water lines. Makes it a straight bolt-in proposition, and has a very good reputation for achieving results. Other suppliers tend to use a complete Garrett cartridge and mate up the stock comp/turbine covers. Also very good, but requires custom oil/water. The upside to going this way (perhaps) is that if you do lots (and lots) of reading/research you can opt for a turbo that is built to your spec. Costs tend to even out however. cheers

The point of the comment was not to be critical of a drag machine - moreso to voice an opinion on the financial risk that comes with a high-stress / short-duration drivetrain used in anything other than that environment. Best of luck to him and enjoy, I reckon. That's what modifying cars should be about. FWIW, the best advice is still to run what you can afford to break. cheers

You will also find the Garrett part # for their version of N1 on turbobygarrett.com - plus many others. Those with RB26 powerplants and Silvia/180SX punters are nicely looked after by Garrett with bolt-up options available direct from Garrett due to the T25 flange patterns they supply. HKS cater for the RB20/25 market which require T3 flanges for bolt-on fitment.

For me that is the key aspect of the whole debate. Outright power is one thing. Durability at whatever power the car develops is quite another. Protracted high speeds or loading WILL expose weaknesses. Who wants bent rods / broken pistons / valve train issues / oil starvation / heat management problems because the owner/builder skimps on the build? Best long-standing advice is to run what you can afford to break.

GT2860RS - Discopotato. Very similar internals. Does not bolt-up due to T28 flange pattern + different dump flange. Go to Turbobygarrett.com for technical info. Search button will help.

Look closely, it is a measurement of tractive force only - the unit is Newtons, not Newton Metres. Depends how the software is calibrated what you get. Main thing is to check the shape of the graph for the before and after , and also whether you get dips, if the graph ramps like a ski jump, tapers quickly etc. cheers Dale

I agree 100%. Really, there was no SERIOUS competition. Various manufacturers homologated successful cars, but they successively raised the performance bar so generally not a lot of parity between makes at any given time. Volvo 240GT, BMW 635CSi, Sierra RS500, then GTR. The Walkinshaw Batmobile was really not what you could call a great success, nor the Brock Group A (carburettored) and they really had to wring them out (Perkins buzzed his to about 8800) to keep pace. Then there were reliability problems for the Holden camp. Alfa, Toyota, Mazda? Barely raised a blip on the screen. The concept of Group A was great, but in practice the competition was nothing like as close as now. Mind you, the whole "safety" Pace Car aspect of the current scene was laughed at as something quaintly American because it produced contrived competition. I think it's a farce, but guess it does produce a watchable spectacle. Probably the biggest current complaint is that Ford/GM are actively resisting bringing in other marques to parity racing. I'd like to see some Japanese or Euro V8s head to head with them, in full knowledge you can't get anything like them off the showroom.

The "no car for school kids" I think is 100% correct. There is just too much temptation, too little maturity to deal with the freedom and reponsibility (to themselves and other road users) that having a car represents. We didn't care whether the boys were wanting to go to uni, get a trade or whatever; but a car while at school just didn't figure in the mix. And we didn't care what "everyone else's parents" decided, this was our decision. I don't believe in pre judging, but I do believe in watching what went wrong for others and try to avoid going down that path. We found that the ways of guiding, rather than the actual view being pushed on the individual kid was where there were differences (ie some kids are more accepting of correction, others more defiant or manipulative). The hardest job seems to be getting them through the teens without becoming a statistic but having a bit of fun in the meantime too.

It's a balancing act between personal/family values, goals, ability to "let go" of control and financial status. We've been through 2 episodes of supply vehicle, stuck with the idea of low-power, low-cost transport which we believe is the ideal for beginner drivers. Good (ie safe/predictable) handling though, is a must. Understeering front wheel drive is acceptable as long as there's no snap lift-off oversteer that goes with it. Hence two early model Hyundai Excels. Satisfaction rating with the vehicles not bad, and no bent car, scenery, or people. Shaking the immature mindset of a young driver/adult is the hard part in that they need to appreciate the concerns and extension of trust in providing them with a car. I don't believe it is appropriate in all cases or households, just a judgement of circumstance.

A little longer searching would have yielded success. There was a thread back in about October relating to this unit. Similar/same compressor as a 2530, with a less aggressive (smaller trim) turbine. Limited experiences posted on the 2510, but it should give stock-type boost response and hang together when you do put some boost into it. If it's available for moderate cost, it's worth a go if power aims are not too great. cheers

Also depending on the dyno and associated software, there is a smoothing function that can be used to eliminate distractions from wheelspin/slippage. Saw it done many times when my bike was dyno'd on a DynoJet.

Hey Brad, there have been threads about cam gears in the past (use the search function), but it seems the main idea is to have them adjustable. There are different brands, little said/written about durability in recent times. I do recall someone had wear issues with alloy gears about 12 - 18 months ago though. Price wise, try Nengun or Greenline to give you an idea for new ones.

The Gibson Racing R32s ran coolers for gearbox and diff, with plenty of packaging problems evident with the coolers being mounted at the rear of the vehicle and fed via some air scoops. You'd have to say it was due to extreme, prolonged torque loading. Obviously the aim is to prevent oil degradation. Recently saw an article in Rally Aust with a 260Z spec'd with a diff cooler. Evidently those R180s have experienced failures due to inability to dissipate heat in those Safari type events. cheers

Includes sender, or just gauge?

Adam save a bit of time and the usual responses by doing a quick SEARCH. there is a wealth of information available in previous discussions, and the stickies at the header of Forced Induction Performance gives plenty of ideas about what people have achieved with their mods. As always, plan very carefully what you want to achieve and what use/s you're going to put the car to. There has been much said also about average power, or total area under the curve - so be careful with the sizes of upgrades for a streetable car (if that's what you're building?). I'd spend on brake pads first, clutch second, split dump + front pipe third, pod or K&N panel filter fourth, then turbo. cheers

Found a thread by The Mafia with info provided by Cubes - he has cited the R33 spec RB25 ratios same as the Z32 spec as above. RB20 ratios were cited as 1st 3.321 2nd 1.902 3rd 1.308 4th 1.000 5th 0.759 R 3.636

There have been comments at various points about the GTR and GTS25t sharing gearsets, or at least the same layout - the rider being GTR has the 4WD components included within the casing. Any ideas whether Nissan installed common gearing between the Z32 and R33?

Just as a matter of interest, has anybody bothered to track down the ratios for factory spec gearboxes? I'd be interested to know whether Nissan ran the same ratios for the RB25DET as for the RB26

Top work GTST. Can you post up the actual measurements you got on those impellers? If they are still apart, then try to get the size of the inducer (smaller end) of the compressor as well. This will allow us to calculate the trim size. cheers

Fabulous venue, and wish it was here to stay in some capacity. The surrounding infrastructure can't (couldn't for many years IMO) deal with traffic volumes associated with national level meetings. That, and the sheer $$$ associated with development and housing encroachment are what has sealed the fate of a great circuit. I was there the day Tony Longhurst stuffed his M3 in underneath Skaife's GTR into Hungry Corner. I've been around the circuit at various points to see acts of bravery and commitment that test the mettle of a driver and vehicle. I want to see the venue used for what it's original intent was - but I think the bureaucrats will see it consigned to history.

No; and Yes. The original question was whether there was a problem with trimming blades on a stock fan. Properly installed thermos will work well, but at a cost. cheers

Mine was trimmed back about 20mm (by me), run successfully for the last 12500km. Same result - does not overheat, vibrate etc. The one word of advice is to make sure you radius your corners similar to stock. If you leave them cut off sharp then apparently they make a lot of noise. FWIW, my mate runs a rally car, and finds that the engine driven fan WITH shroud is far more efficient - at controlling temps - than thermos. The downside of course is parasitic drag when it is not required; even with a clutch hub. cheers Dale

That's just great!! Post up your results please. cheers Dale

My invite to join the user group arrived this morning. Very happy.

I don't think you will see some massive improvement just through a change in the heat range. Try one range cooler than stock. A set of copper plugs is quite cheap and if the results are promising, THEN try two ranges cooler. It's about balancing the compromise between improving high rpm/load ignition but avoiding plug fouling. I've left the valley cover off my engine after shelling out for a set of Splitfires to allow them to cool. Also makes it much, much easier to access plugs. Downside is that if you wash down the engine you have to be very careful not to drown the coils.