Dale FZ1

I was interested in those kits. So are the fittings supplied not the type that seal on either a taper, or into a seat? ie they rely on just having a super-tight tension?.

I take it you are going to use an adaptor to fit it? Try the turbobygarrett.com site which gives some really good tech specs on their products. What sort of power (amount, and delivery) are you targetting?

I need GTSt v1.100 for ECR33 My PFC version is 5.01A - based on the spreadsheet this should be the right one?

I'm interested, but is the price $US or AUD?

Got my 040 yesterday! Thanks for the quick turnaround time.

Got my 040 yesterday! Thanks for the quick turnaround time.

Thanks, it was just the info I needed. Fuel system is part of the upgrade program, with a 040 pump going in already. FPR I consider a bandaid fix so I'm prepared to limit max power output if needed until suitable injectors can be sourced. Even 200rwkW will make for an entertaining drive. cheers

Thank you for the comments; yes it is the tuning resolution I'm looking for so the Z32 type will do nicely. It seemed that Q45 was so much physically larger it wouldn't be worthwhile given my particular aims and budget. What Bosch part number do I ask for? cheers

Prologue: I have done the searches at some length. I'm going to upgrade the AFM on my s1 R33, just looking for comments on the practicality and/or technical advantages to running with either Z32 or Q45. Power target is @ 220 rwkW when funds for turbo + injector upgrade are available. Current upgrades are full exhaust + split dump, FMIC, PFC. With stock turbo, stock boost I'm maxing the AFM at around 6000rpm, so see the benefit in spending there to give better tuning results. Search tells me that the Z32 with VL connector spliced in (thanks Cubes!!) is an easy, tidy fit. The Q45 install (from The Mafia's schmick looking upgrades) looks like a much more mod-intensive undertaking. What I'd like to know is if there is any technical (tuning) advantage with the Q45, and what is the connector for that unit like? Also, will the Z32 slip straight in to the turbo inlet trunking + bolt up to the airbox? Are there any negatives to either upgrade that I should be aware of? cheers

Not too far off thread, but what exactly is required to fit up either a Z32 or Q45 AFM? I've seen comments about plugs etc, but if you want to upgrade, what is needed? cheers

You have email. Interested in an 040 please. cheers

PM sent

I'd be interested to know how you got it fitted. Flange adaptor, and other fittings required? Much cost in that stuff? cheers

SK's advice/practice is also similar to that used for new motorcycles. Remember Jap bikes also have an integral gearbox design, with shift quality closely linked (and really obvious to the rider) to a good run-in. Mineral oils allow more effective bed-in between surfaces, and there are many reports of a result similar to bore glazing from guys who thought they were looking after their engines by using a synthetic from new. Brand of oil probably less important, but do use mineral oil for a period of hours, then go to synthetic.

When I changed from a Jap cat-back to a split dump + high flow cat, the noise actually dropped. Don't know why, but the whole thing just worked better.

Just feels too low, and pulling away from the traffic lights requires a little more finesse with the clutch to get a clean launch (not a hoon launch, just smooth driving). Maybe it's just the power draw required to drive the a/c compressor?

What brand/size/configuration turbo? Size of the rotating assembly and compressor A/R are an important part of the whole equation. Rule of thumb is that a larger turbine A/R = more efficiency at higher flow (more power), but trade off of higher engine RPM to get things working efficiently. You need to be fairly clear about what engine characteristics and power level you're shooting for. cheers

Any signs of cracking/warpage on the exhaust manifold? If ok, I will take it. 1st expression of interest, please PM me with postage cost to Qld 4559

Direct bolt on fit for RB20/25? What is a 2510 rated at? Have you instaled this unit previously on your car, or know the installation history and km travelled? Interested just chasing a bit more info. cheers

Which model is it from - 33 or 34? Not sure of your abbreviation, but take it to mean that tb = throttle body? No exhaust manifold? cheers

Which model is it from, R33 or 34?

I've noticed that my idle rpm with the air-con switched on is about 650-700rpm. Not so low that it feels like stalling, but not idling as smoothly as it does around the 950-1000 mark with the air off. The PFC settings show an idle setting of (from memory) 950rpm with the A/C on or off. Is it worth bumping the setting up to trial any change, or more likely a sensor/switch in the A/C system? Any other ideas/experiences with this would be good, since I want to use the A/C this summer. cheers

Try making some inquiries with either Hollinger or Albans. They are well known in racing and rallying, Australian made and with well founded reputations. Don't expect it to be a cheap exercise - industrial strength engine needs a driveline with incredible strength. At that power level I would suggest a production based gearbox will not survive. Let us know how you get on. cheers

General recommendation from Shell Aust oil techs is to run a synthetic in any high power/high load application. While you get similar viscosity ratings to mineral gear oils, their lubricating qualities are different, as are their abilities to resist degradation through shearing of the molecular structure. It seems that most synthetics are "slipperier" and this helps the shift quality even under normal daily driver usage. FWIW, I understand that most/all heavy duty truck manufacturers recommend synthetics due to their qualities and vastly increased service intervals. So paying the extra $$ should have payoffs. I don't personally think the brand is as important as the formulation (ie synthetic or mineral) Regarding the oil additives comment, I've recently used a product called Molybond to see how it worked on a possibly worn synchro. The shift quality has improved out of sight, but still assessing whether a rebuild is required. Nulon's product is different, but should deliver the benefits they advertise. A mate has used it with some success. Nulon's packaging specifically states not for use with ester based synthetic oils. cheers Dale

PM me; cable and software disc surplus to requirements. cheers