Kinks

Cold start enrichment is only a few percent and just enough to compensate for fuel condensing on cold cylinder walls. There is a MASSIVE difference in the fuel requirement for actually moving a ~1500kg lump of metal compared with making the engine continue spinning of its own accord with no load on it. Engine temperature changes from 20C to 85C over the course of 3-5 minutes. This is slower than boiling some water in a kettle so I don't know why you're hung up on things warming "too fast". When petrol burns, the cylinder temperature shoots up a few hundred degrees in milliseconds, if you're that worried about things going from cold to hot perhaps you should drive an electric car?

The best thing for an engine, no matter what, is to be at operating temperature. With the engine, coolant and oil at operating temperature there is virtually no wear because everything is working as it should. That's why taxis commonly do 500,000km on the original engine - they are never stopped for long enough to cool down. Our skylines also have water/oil heat exchangers - effectively the coolant is used to heat the oil and get the oil up to operating temperature as soon as possible. When your engine is cold, the components (pistons, rings etc) have larger clearances. This lets more of the cylinder mixture bypass the rings and contaminate the oil. Cold cylinder walls also condense the fuel mixture which makes this effect even more pronounced.. Oil that is diluted by fuel does not lubricate well, and in any case oil that is below its operating temperature is not an optimal lubricant either. If you idle an engine, the engine is producing the minimum amount of combustion necessary to maintain a stable idle. There is no load on the engine whatsoever, you may think that this is better because no load = no wear right? Well.. everything in the engine is constantly moving and sliding past each other so the longer this goes on in a non-optimal state the higher your wear. In fact, many diesel motors produce so little waste heat on idle that you could idle them for an hour before they warm up. Obviously this is not good! The best way of treating your engine is therefore to start it, let oil circulate to all the components (oil pressure light goes out) and then drive it off in a gentle manner keeping the revs below 3000RPM and avoiding loading it heavily. High RPM and heavy load will cause additional wear but lightly loading the engine produces MUCH more waste heat, gets the temperature up to operating point and everything works as it should. Letting a cold engine sit there idling for 5-10 minutes is absolutely pointless.

You really hate your car don't you.. letting a cold engine idle for several minutes is one of the WORST things you can do for engine wear. Start it, wait for oil pressure (5-10 seconds), then drive it gently until warmed up.

^^ interesting stuff. gotta love that "ferrari payment" not that it seems to be helping them this year

I had to drive an i30 for 3 weeks while I was between skylines. Worst 3 weeks of my life. Don't get me wrong, the i30 is a solid car and I've done a skidpan day, very impressed with the stability control Hyundai have come a long way. But it was an auto and had nothing going for it in the performance stakes and I was actually starting to get depressed without a decent car to drive. If nothing else it's a reminder not to lose my licence for any reason

FTFY

Set of 4 R33 GTR rims and tyres Rims are 17x9 +30 Fronts have near new maxxis tyres, rears have Dunlop Sport Max TT but they are just touching the wear markers and need replacing. Rims were professionally repainted a few years ago in the factory GTR colour, after 15 years all original rims look faded and yellow as the clearcoat has oxidised. They turned out absolutely mint and even after a few years are in almost perfect condition. Very very slight rash on 1 or 2 of the wheels and a chip or two of paint missing but you have to look closely to see it. See photos for closeups. $1200. Perfect match for somebody who wants R33 GTR rims in excellent condition. Located Northern beaches in Sydney

first turbo car? I will recite some helpful advice that was given to me 1) don't accelerate around corners 2) don't accelerate around corners 3) don't accelerate around corners

bridging the MIL port should work. other than that you could get a consult cable and use the free software ECUtalk

Possible, but very minor gains if any. You can replace the dump/front pipe with a 3" design, I favour the bellmouth as it gives plenty of space for post-turbo air to sort itself out. A higher flowing 200cpi cat is worthwhile too. However, the rest of the piping is 2.5" and has restrictive mufflers in it, this is good for quietness but not good for power. You are best off talking to an exhaust shop to make something that looks factory (twin tips if you wish) and flows better than standard that isn't too loud.

^^ my nuts just tightened a bit when I saw those pics

There is a lot of knee jerk horse shit being discussed here. 1) Changing the start time is all well and good in hindsight but Bernie wouldn't do it because he loves TV ratings and money. Besides which, whatever conditions you are faced with in a race, you should be able to conduct the race without seriously injuring or killing somebody. That's the FIA's job. Start time is irrelevant. 2) Enforcing a safety car, or speed limits under double waved yellows, or whatever is just slapping a bandaid on it and saying "there I fixed it". Conditions change too much for a blanket rule to be OK. When the race started under the safety car many drivers were on full wets and Vettel was heard commenting that he aquaplaned doing 80km/h. Near the end of the race on worn tyres, the limit may have been even less than this. Most drivers at this stage were on inters. If your inters have worn out then you can probably still aquaplane doing less than 60km/h. Does the limit need to be 40? 20? Do we hit a pause button and everybody stops where they are on the track until the crashed car is recovered? This is a ridiculous line of discussion. The solution is to make sure that drivers obey double waved yellows and slow down substantially when they see them. The driver needs to be the judge of how much to slow down in order to guarantee they can stop if they need to. That's what double waved yellows means and these should be displayed significantly before the corner in question to give the driver time to decide on an appropriate speed. It sounds like this was done. Bianchi misjudged, unfortunately. He aquaplaned off the corner under double waved yellows so clearly his judgement was wrong. 3) Insisting on zero risk is retarded and is at odds with motorsport. If it wasn't a tiny bit dangerous it would not be fun. We should seek to minimise risk and look at what happened here but it was an unfortunate set of circumstances. A second or two either way and Bianchi would be dead, or he would have walked away unharmed. Martin Brundle commented that when a car goes off in the wet it's sometimes the case that another car is going to go off in the same place. This was certainly true in this case. The tractor got out there very quickly. It had almost cleared the crashed car completely. However, Bianchi may not have been aware of the lack of grip in that section of the track as he crashed 2 minutes after Sutil. His lap time the last time around was 117 seconds, so he may have been coming through the section under double yellows for the first time. It is possible that leaving a crashed car untouched for a full lap gives the drivers enough time to evaluate the hazard and then recovery can proceed. But this is STILL not a zero risk proposition. Ultimately it was just bloody bad luck. Double waved yellows means slow down and be prepared to stop. Bianchi obviously failed to heed this effectively, taking into account the state of his tyres and the track conditions. I'm not blaming him, but shouting to the FIA or whoever to "DO SOMETHING!!!!" is unrealistic. They did everything right. The only safer way is not to have a motor race. All the postulating won't undo what has happened. Sometimes despite best efforts a set of circumstances crop up and you're in for a bad time. Bianchi has paid a heavy price.. and I hope he recovers although it does not look likely. Agree with hrd-hr30 here.. personal responsibility is a foreign concept. Bianchi went into a corner with double waved yellows too fast, lost control and has paid the price. It is terrible, but it is what it is.

my car leaked from there and it came from the cam seals. don't rule out coincidence! I pulled the rocker cover gaskets off twice and replaced the VCT drain once and finally realised it was the cam seals.

ferrari won't get pinged for it. they'll just do it and get away with it on a flimsy technicality. i think the ban is a bit stupid. you can get around it so easily with a coded or appropriately timed message that the driver knows you're referring to his current corner as the one he needs to focus on.

I've datalogged my R34 GTT as well and it has a massive ignition hole in the midrange. Same deal, ~25 degrees drops to ~14 degrees and then once it's past peak torque the timing shoots back up into the 20's. Car is 100% stock.. need to pull my finger out and fit the Adaptronic I've already got

Guys, stop quoting km per tank. It's a meaningless figure because everybody chickens out and fills up at different times. There could be 10-15L left in the tank when you fill up which is going to skew the figures in a big way. L/100km is the only true measure. I get about 12.5L/100km around the city driving with a bit of boost. If I really baby it then it's closer to 11L/100km. Best ever was 9.3L/100km which was 100% freeway driving.

If it's a bit rough and stuttery, coil packs for sure. Also, if you coil packs are worn then gapping the plugs down to 0.8 will help. There should be no driveability issues with 0.8 gap, everyone does it. Ultimately you're just delaying buying new coil packs though. HKS pod could be releasing oil onto your airflow meter. get some electronic cleaning solvent (NOT PCB cleaner, just cleaning solvent that says it dries without residue) and hit your airflow meter with it. the hot wire inside the airflow. if it's smooth (like the car just feel gutless) it could be rich and retard. my car seems to drop timing in the midrange, stock ECU stock everything. go figure. just has a big hole. I'm replacing the ECU at some point so will see if it takes more timing on the dyno.

JJR dump + 5 inch cat + stock catback is exactly what I have (for now) and everything fitted up fine. my front bar hits before anything else although I haven't tried vaulting any speed bumps yet

The height is dependent on the dump pipe, I am using a justjap dump and as you can see the dump pipe itself hangs a bit below the chassis rail (and will not budge since it is bolted to the turbo). There is plenty of room above the cat (between the cat and the underbody heat shield) so if clearance is an issue I would suggest getting a dump pipe that tucks up as close to the body as possible. Doesn't cause me any issues, my car is close to standard height.

Fitted a 5" Venom recently. Bolted up perfectly, very happy with it.

the dry filters are non-replaceable. use them for a while and throw them away. comparisons have been done before on the dyno that show a pod filter gains nothing over the stock panel filter.

Adaptronic would be a much better option than putting in some 15 year old Apexi thing.

Turbos have a happy efficiency range. If you try and push a stock (or shit) turbo above its limits, the shaft speed will get really high and it will generate a lot more heat trying to build boost. a bigger, more efficient turbo will do the same boost level with less heat and lower shaft speed. heat creates detonation, and a small turbo creates backpressure which also makes the engine breathe poorly. engines are essentially air pumps. the easier you can get air in and out, the more power you make. easier means less restriction. bigger pipes, bigger turbos, etc. boost is actually just a measure of restriction, it means to make the power you are having to try "X" hard to cram in the air. a bigger turbo will make same power at less boost. it just has more lag at the bottom end. you need to pick a turbo that's not too laggy but flows well at the power level you want. you could have a stock turbo last fine at 20psi if your exhaust was a pea shooter like you'd find on a 1.3L hatchback. but would it make any power? no. because you have no flow

power fc = fail 15 year old ECU for your car.. no knock sensing except for dicky warning light you won't see. good luck. you should support an aussie company and buy an adaptronic or a haltech. much better products, engine protection functions that go into limp mode if your fuel pump fails etc. not like a PFC that will happily grenade your engine if you don't see the light in time.

can you leave your sexcapades out of this