Kinks

+1 on dyno plot. The OP6 results always seem a touch laggy from what I've seen so far, I know Stao is working on it.

Yep still for sale. I can get a price on shipping to melb but will take me a day or two (need to measure/weigh the wheels)

Far out that's shitty consistency (0.7-1.0). I was just being lazy.. pregapped is less work. But if they are so variable with the gap then yes you might as well get the 1.1's and gap them down yourself.

Yeah there are relays under the dash but the main ones are in the engine bay. even if your AFM is clogged with oil when you turn the key to ON you should get all the dash lights, the fuel pump should prime for about 3 seconds and then switch off. if you're getting dash lights but no fuel pump then it's pump related. if you're not even getting dash lights then your ECU isn't switching on, and your problem is between the battery and ECU. forget fuel pumps, AFMs and blinker fluid levels until you sort out the lack of dash lights. Could be a dodgy ground connection with the chassis as well. gotta start checking things with a multimeter.

great stuff. it's good practice to gap your plugs down to 0.8mm as well. Fresh coil packs should be firing no problem but reducing the gap makes it a bit easier on the ignition system. you can buy pregapped plugs - BKR6E or BCPR6ES. Don't get the ones with -11 suffix, those are 1.1mm gap (and unfortunately more common). The ones without the suffix are 0.8mm. you can put platinums/iridiums in if you get a good price but copper plugs are cheap and although you have to change them a bit more often it's good to have a look at them now and then (spark plugs tell a story about how your engine is running.. rich? lean? detonating? you'll see it on the plugs).

Set of 4 R33 GTR rims and tyres Rims are 17x9 +30 Fronts have near new maxxis tyres, rears have Dunlop Sport Max TT but they are just touching the wear markers and need replacing. Rims were professionally repainted a few years ago in the factory GTR colour. All original rims look faded and yellow as the clearcoat has oxidised. These rims turned out absolutely mint and even after a few years are in almost perfect condition. Very very slight rash on 1 or 2 of the wheels and a chip or two of paint missing but you have to look closely to see it. See photos for closeups. $1200. Perfect match for somebody who wants R33 GTR rims in excellent condition. Located Northern beaches in Sydney

it's not the exhaust manifold. RB20 and RB25 exhaust manifolds are identical, and on RB25s they flow 300rwkw without any problems. So it's absolutely impossible that it's causing a problem at 130rwkw! If it's glowing red hot then it points to the timing being too retarded. retarded timing explains both the low power and the hot exhaust manifold. question is why is it retarded, either it is knock limited or there is a restriction somewhere although it sounds like it's not the exhaust. if it was running lean then richening it up should have been the first thing he did. silly question but you are running 98RON fuel right?

ehehehe 'modified box' damn you, Duncan.

Check your battery terminals. They often get corroded and although they feel tight they can go intermittent. Take them off the battery posts and then put them back on and tighten up. If that's not it, sounds like ECCS relay failure or a dodgy connection with one of the ECU pins.

Splitfire. 100%.

f**k no! It's terrible. unless you are doing major stop-start driving you should be getting between 12 and 12.5L/100km (so 50L will get you 400km). On the open road it should be in the 10's.

15psi has a restriction AND not cooling right so lets try almost double the boost... pointless. diminishing returns. risking motor damage. what a genius. find a haltech/RB expert. not necessary

Don't buy cheap ones. When they fail again it will annoy you.

^^ lol thanks for the english translation Ben I'm sure in the history of skylines people have had a shit tune done before. But the motor may have other issues. What was the motor taking in terms of ignition timing at peak torque? post the dyno sheet as well. What did the tuner say? Is he experienced with Haltechs? Yes, 130rwkw is even less than a stock skyline makes. Something's wrong, if the tuner couldn't point a finger at something find another tuner. He should have given you feedback on why he thinks it's so low.

I'm working on something with the Raspberry Pi. It will replace the stock TV or tri-gauge cluster on the top of the dash with a 7" LCD (non-touchscreen, but it is an option in the future). It will stream internet radio to the stereo via mobile phone tether (ie plug your phone in via USB, it will charge and also provide internet to the Pi), talk to an ECU (I have an Adaptronic, but it could also be made to work with Consult) and maybe even GPS navigation. No timeline or set-in-stone features as yet... it's a work in progress.

to make use of high flow you will also need an upgraded fuel pump. 20psi will definitely need bigger injectors too. pod filters are worthless unless you box them and feed with cold air. the standard airbox is good for lots of power.

F1 is supposed to be the pinnacle of technology. Use compressed air like the V8s do, and once the car is in the air just unclip it and walk away and let it hold pressure. The main lollypop guy now has a big red remote control button to release the car instead. When all the wheel guys are done, the refuelling is done, and nobody else is coming down the pit lane he hits the button, the car drops and it's outta there. OH HEY it's electronic, now we can put a safety in it so if the fuel rig is still attached you can't drop the car. Simple, no more people getting hurt (the safety issue is the big one for me, but it can be solved by technology). If you want to save money or the environment, f**k off, go home, cancel the race. They are already carting around many sets of tyres, car parts, computer equipment and people around the world and it all goes by air freight. If you want green credentials then just cancel the damn thing. F1 costs money, I agree in principle with keeping a lid on it or it will just be insane but you also have to spend enough to make it the best. There was an element of "let's pass them during a stop" before but now all I hear is "we're not racing them let them through". Or DRS just gifts them a pass anyway, DRS is so god damn easy to pass that people won't need to wait for a fuel stop to get past. Passing in F1 is now like shitting the bed when you're drunk. Far too easy. So at the moment, refuelling won't hurt the racing because of DRS. I don't like DRS but that's another story. This is why having a fuel-limited formula sucks. ALL the drivers are driving to a time, and it's about 80% of maximum pace. They are conserving fuel, tyres, brakes or all 3. Alonso has already commented he's driving slower than he was 15 years ago. Someone worked out for Malaysia that the 2004? car would have lapped the 2015 car 7 or 8 times. That's f**king bullshit. I've 90% lost interest in F1. The other week I rewatched a 2006 Hungarian race (which is often a snooze) and it was amazing. They were racing each other hammer and tong from the start to the end. Anyway, agree to disagree I think the current state of affairs is boring and I feel REALLY sorry for the drivers to get to the pinnacle of motorsport and then get told to drive the car slower.

Depends what you're earning, and depends what you want in life. If you can afford it, do it. Life is a compromise - you either have a flash car now or you sink all your money into your home loan to pay it off early. If you live for now, get the car. If you live for 20 years in the future then drive a shitbox and pay down the mortgage. One of my mates is determined to pay his mortgage off early and is busting his hump to do it. Good for him. I am paying off a little more than I have to which will shave a few years off. I could work a lot harder to earn a bit more money and get it done sooner but I don't want the added stress.

Bring on refuelling. The current lack of racing is bullshit.

If you want a reason to feel guilty then yes.. you let someone else's behaviour on the road affect your mood to the point where you reacted and flipped them off. You could have been more zen about it and not let it bother you. Of course: +1 We all let stuff get under our skin now and then. Don't worry about the merc driver. They were being a child by antagonising you by driving slowly and then trying to block you by accelerating. I'm sure being flipped off (and losing because their car is shit and slow) hurt their feelings but they can suffer in luxury.. first world problems.

Did it have a boost curve anything like this? (stolen from the Hypergear thread, he had issues with the ECU commanding the boost solenoid).

It's probably throwing all the lights on because not having a water temp reading will make the car run like shit. The R34 will throw lights on at the drop of a hat. Give the workshop the benefit of the doubt, if they seem like they're scratching the bottom of the barrel then take it somewhere else. Coolant temp sensor should not be hard to chase. What area do you live in?

Looks like a very impressive turbo Stao.. Early boost is great for the street, feels like a bigger motor and no need to swap gears to tackle a hill.

Bumping this to keep interest going. 2003. f**k that was a long time ago. Good times. At least most of us have hung onto our Skylines. Keen to have this catchup soon!

Agreed, that boost graph is amazing. "How much boost does it make?" "Yes"