courier33

Damn thats not what I wanted to hear! Re-soldered all of the contacts again, still doing it. The board I have is a D board although its a late serial number : 05076. Also had a look at the bottom of the circuit board, and it looks like the aluminium retainer rail of the case is coming into contact with the tiny contacts on the board. Ran a length of insultation tape over the length of the board as a precuation.

I have installed my emanage ultimate and found I have an intermittent missfire. Mainly at idle and when holding around 5% throttle at any revs. After doing a datalog on the emanage, the missfire looks like the injector duty cycle is spiking to 99% intermittently. This is on the input duty cycle coming from the standard ecu. I have double checked all of the connections and no fix. It seems to be only one cylinder at a time missing (same cylinder or different ones im not sure) Car runs fine under load and the injector duty cycle acts as normal. I have noticed a few times when backing off from high rpm's, the duty cycle will spike up to 90 -95% and then gradually decrease to about 80% with the revs before dropping back down to 5% where it should be. Does anyone know why the standard ecu would be spiking the injectors to nearly 100% duty cycle intermittently? Stuffed ecu or could it be something else like CAS. Attached the datalog for anyone who has the emanage log viewer showing the duty cycle input spikes. r33.zip

So your saying that I need to wire in the narrowband signal to the emanage or duplicate the wideband signal out to two pins?

Also, as far a plugging the wideband output into the option port of the emanage, I just used a small terminal from a battery plug brought from Dick Smith. The only pin that needs to be connected is the far left side pin if using the option 1 port.

Innovate LC-1 $200 bucks delivered from USA. Found on ebay. Wideband and narrowband output, replaces the factory O2 sensor and narrowband output goes into the stock ECU. Wideband output goes into the Emanage and gives realtime A/F ratio between 7:1 and 22:1 on your laptop. As said above, can be used to do a basic air/fuel ratio tune on the injector maps.

I have just installed my new emanage ultimate and realized there is no option for changing the air flow meter to the Q45 AFM I have just brought!!?? Just about every engine is listed apart from VH41. Is this correct Q45 AFM is from VH41 engine? What other engine should I select to make this AFM work? I would have thought Greddy would have included the option to fit a Q45 AFM by now.

Just reading through this topic as Ive recently purchased and installed a GT30/40R. It has a Garrett 0.7 a/r compressor cover 4" inlet 2" outlet, 6 blade compressor, T28( narrowing adaptor from stock manifold) 0.86 internal wastegate housing. Going by what I have read here is this a poor combination to be running? I have it installed on an R33 GTST RB25. I was hoping to make 280KW on the dyno. I already have the following mods: full exhaust GTR intercooler split dump pod filter splitfires adjustable exhaust cam gear plus 660 cc injectors Q45 AFM Greddy emanage ultimate to install this week. Dyno tune nexst week. Reading this has put some doubt as to if I have the turbo for my needs here...

as the post states, can pick up in Tullamarine area or post at buyers expense. 100,000 k's on it. Turbo was in perfect running condition when removed from car 3 weeks ago.

The magnet on the wheels wont tell you anything because if they are inconel, they wont be magnetic

Where is the best place people have found to mount the Emanage Ultimate? Under the passemger seat? I have an R33

I PAID $230 PLUS POSTAGE LESS THAN 2 WEEKS AGO FOR THIS. NEVER SEEN THEM CHEAPER THAN $190 PLUS POSTAGE

BRAND NEW IN BOX BOSCH FUEL PUMP, IN TANK VERSION. GENUINE. $170. PURCHASED THROUGH REPUTABLE SELLER WITH RECEIPT. UNOPENED BOX STILL IN POSTAGE PACKAGING. SAME STYLE AS 040 BUT FLOWS AS MUCH AS 044.

Has anybody ever tried to fit 1JZ or 2JZ injectors into an rb25 r33 GTST? It seems that the toyots injectors are side feed high impedance injectors also. There is a lot more 2nd hand aftermarket injectors for the toyota motors than can be found for rb motors, especially in the US. So if they fit it would make for a cheaper injector upgrade than sourcing ones to suit rb25.

I just fitted the Excedy HD clutch to my R33. Its supposed to hold 240KW ATW. I also fitted a Lightened flywheel and short shifter in the process. The clutch is actually lighter to press than the standard one was. I also put auto trans fluid in the gearbox instead of the 80W90 and the gear selection is heaps easier. It used to be pretty hard to engage gears when it was cold and I could never engage 1st until nearly completely stopped. Now it a lot better. I just hope the lighter fluid doesnt cause excess wear in the gearbox.

My R33 manual has 178 kW ATW and 529 NM, I also have an XE 351 automatic with 196 kW and 850 NM of torque ATW and the Syyline still beats the XE in a drag with me and my missus. Ill drive the XE in traffic anyday. Gear changes are not so necessary when theres heaps of torque.

Are you sure the piston to bore clearance is 0.007" and within spec?? This sounds pretty high to me. 0.007 thou = 0.1778mm. Recomended clearance for a RB30 is 0.015mm to 0.035mm (~0.001")

If the fuel pump is the original one, maybe its on its way out and starting to run the engine lean under full throttle.

Great quality kits, and very easy to modify if you have something other than the standard 300x600 intercooler. Heres some pics of the kit modified to fit a GTR intercooler in an R33 GTS-T.

Going by that picture of the front of your car it probably would be a good idea to mount your numberplate about 2" higher!

The ones on the boot wouldnt have enough throw or pressure to lift anything the length of the bonnet, although I think the idea of having one each side to equalize the forces would have to be better on the hinges than having just the one strut.

I'd hope if you paid to get your dif re-built it would at least include new bearings and seals, if not also the lsd cones/cluthches.

Ive already done a fair bit of mods to the back of the plastic part of the bumper and the front section of the chassis rails to mount the intercooler in there. As far as I can see I just need to cut and shut the two lower pipes to fit the extended end tanks, possibly using a silicone joiner, if not re-welding. This seems the best option short of making a custom set of pipes, which looks like costing around $300-350 in stainless mandrel bends and parts, let alone labour and hassle.

will the pipes fit onto the 3" end tanks of a GTR intercooler in a R33 Gtst? If so Ill take one.

I brought a 1995 series 1.5 R33 GTS-T Skyline a few months ago, was pretty happy with the performance but got excited and did the following mods: Jasma 3.5" Cat back exhaust Split front/dump pipe Ball spring type boost controller running 11.5 psi K&N pod filter Iridium plugs gapped to 0.8mm Got the car dyno tuned a few weeks ago and it made 178 kw at the wheels. When it was making full power the air/fuel ratio was down around 9.5 to 10 which seems a bit too rich. To fix this problem I brought the Jaycar Digital Fuel Adjuster and a Dick Smith Digital Air/Fuel Ratio meter. Calibrated the a/f meter for a 1v signal and the Fuel Adjuster for a 5v signal, which I believe is the maximum voltage for the stock O2 sensor and AFM of this car. Took it for a run tonight and noticed that in a 3rd gear pull the air/fuel ratio started at 14.7 and climbed to 16.5 at redline :confused: When I did another run I watched the Fuel Adjuster's load points in Run Mode and it hit load point 128 (maxed out) at around 5500. Is the maximum voltage of the AFM 5.0v which I calibrated to? & is the Digital Fuel Adjuster cutting the output voltege to 5.0v which is causing it to max out and run lean??? Would be a bit suspect of believing a $60 A/F meter :crazy: but the reading from the DFA has got me wondering what to do next.

Do these Cats come with flanges to bolt straight onto a 3" exhaust? Im interested in one for a R33 Gts-t. Also any chance of a picture or link? Thanks.