toffy

konnect/jaiks old monster? , 4.9/5 because of the nasty dent

when you go to the paint shop , get a colour chart , then you can pick your own shade of white , speaking of keeping clean , most engine bays are sprayed in more of a primer/base coat so they get dirty very easy, your best option for ultra clean under there is to get it resprayed with the car(lots more effort , but worth it if you want ultra clean) or you can get some nice polishes these days that make it easier to clean

worst thing about pearl whites , even using the wrong clear can make the colour look wrong

is it still for sale? , cheap car really

rb26 bottom end??

haha , funny (well not really) story , i did nearly move to perth . I'm stuck in tas atm (only good thing about tas is the roads and tracks.. And transport system ) for a good 5 years atleast

, no 4door love??

1 for me too

or this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ce...l&hl=cefiro if he hasn't sold it already? , i would buy it myself if my laurel would sell

yeah my bad , looking through threads you had a pic somewhere . Find the brightest (i.e blue-est, most whites are very yellow and imo look dirty) white you can find and spray it that colour , then find some bling rims that match the car

worst part about wiring , once it gets burnt it basically turns into a welder and burns wires all over the car (that's why when cars get burnt out , the whole car goes up inc under bonnet etc , my suggestion is either find someone wrecking a damaged ceffy and totally re-wire your car(not as hard as it sounds) or send it to a sparky (wich will cost $$$$$$$$$), but even doing that your ecu could be fried and all.

any time , usually it's $300 for the chip etc in memory and what ever else to get it tune (beats paying $1500 plus for a pfc that does the same thing) nah , never put an ecu that was tuned to another car in your own , ignition maps could be off the show and there is no way to adjust that with a piggy back ecu

http://www.ironchefimports.com/site/index....4&Itemid=30 looks the goods in the pics

haha sorry eps , i must have logged off as you were writing that . Yeah it has picked up in here a bit , notably more from the western side than anywhere else, i know what your sayiong though , it got dead in here for a while , hopefully it stays picked up stick with black if your car is already , add chrome rimzz , thank me after +1 , even though my ceff is purple , i don't think it's tooo out there

no. go get a nistune like every one else, have it tuned to your specific car , thank me in 12 months time when your car is still running .

nah all r33 had steel type compressor wheel , s1 and 1.5? were 6 blade and s2 were 5 blade in memory , r34 s2 had the nylon compressor wheel s1 r34 had series 2 compressor wheel with the vg30 exh housing. ALL of them had a ceramic exh wheel

ok , don't tell .... can YOU get more?? . autech bar still available?

going???

i call bullshit on pretty much your whole post , you've obviously never driven an r33 , which these days sell for the same $$ as an r32.... from what i've driven , r33 will out handle a r32 through most corners in aus (i've owned both and i'm not a r32 hater or a r33 lover incase you were wondering) . bang for buck the stock (or as close as you can get these days) rb20 feels a stronger motor than rb25 in and out of corners , and when you start modifying the only issue with the rb20 is it takes about 800rpm longer to spool most turbo's compared to rb25 , now you think about how a rb20 can rev 800-1000rpm more than a 25 and guess what! - even . one thing you are right about , r32's will stick at the price they're at for a long time (untill all te tools crash/destroy theirs and they become rare) p.s if you buy a performance car based on how it looks your retarded and rb26 is king of import rb.

I concur , rb26 imo will end up costing similar money for 250rwk to a rb25

afm , cas , water temp sensor?

nice , seems like a fairly low reading for a 3037? , usually they're good for around 400rwhp? would still be heaps of fun in such a light car!

that's not really something i'd suggest, boost gain from the exhaust would barely be noticable , imo don't touch it , if you want to make it so whatever garage cant thrash it on you , pull the circlip off the actuator arm and wire the watsegate flap open (= no boost or very little) . The reason for the increased boost pressure is because you've just made less backpressure on the turbo/bypass(wastegate... think of breathing through a straw) hence it can spin the wheel easier etc

really? , i've heard mixed reports about sr in cefiro/laurel (versus rb25) , honestly , i don't know what the big problem with the baby rb is? rev all day , take lots of punishment and sound reasonable , lag is an issue if your used to big capacity engines i suppose?