Risking

Cooling panels do have merit. They are however fairly useless without some sort of side plating to keep the air directed at the radiator.

Very nicely done.

Sounds like you need to drop your nugget off for a rewire Duncan. Actually I've seen the looms in your car and it could do with a freshen up. Engine looms start at $660 and can go up to $1500 for one with the works. That's using detusch connectors and quality wire/braided sheath. Full looms for the skyline start at $1500 and can run up to 3k for something like a motec/awd install.

I've got a heap of z32 mad sensors at work. Your welcome to bring the at by and try one on it. Local to you just give me a call or email

Front drive shafts are overrated! For a car with a live axle arse end they certainly work well.

For sure Send me an email or give me a call to arrange a time.

Of course it did I've got Justin here doing looms full time.doing an R34, lotus And a corolla at the moment.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/353128-r34-skyline-gtr-vspec/page__fromsearch__1

I don't have anything off the shelf as such for the CT9 but there is no reason why one can't be done. I've done a couple of 6's similar in design to that but don't know if the 6 and 9 are the same

There is one by HKS26T that's a good read and ongoing.

Duncan must be bloody bored!

I think more threads like the dry sump one would be beneficial to create conversation and information. Threads would have to be specifically Motorsport orientated. Kinda like the Bruce ducting thread and the cooling thread that are going at the moment in other sections

I have an n15 SSS for sale at the moment that suits the pulsar series!

Real race cars only have two drive shafts Duncan I wouldn't want to change the ducts that's for sure. That car has done 3 Bathurst 1000 events and finished all 3 times as well as sandown enduros so if say they did something right. The differences between teams is interesting to look at though. A lot of the time they run the cars with the ducting blocked off at the bumper.

here is a couple from both sides of a VY taxi. This car has a front mounted rack unlike the previous car that was rear mounted. The ducts on this one are mounted at the front of the upright obviously. The NZ VY has a very similar thing but smaller. There is a carbon peice that locates onto the duct which adapts into a 3inch spiral tube to allow the flex before entering very similar kevlar ducting to the front bar. The kevlar parts from that VY are removed at the moment and being repaired.

Spot on the money. There is a properly made up funnel that crates a neat shape that suit the inside of the rotor. Jacking up a supercar now to take photo of it.

I'm still around Chris. Haven't been racing due to time constraints with the workshop. I've ended up with a VY supercar so looking to get it running and head back out this year. I've got one pulsar left to do before the series begins.

What are you doing on the other side of the world..... It will be the right colour by next week. Couple of things that needed to be tidied up inside before it got painted.

I do agree the Motorsport section there is probably the most worth attending section.

No problem at all. Those battery boxes have been revised a little since the early ones. They are $220 inc gst. The undercar surge tank for the R33 I think there is photos earlier in the thread but they are $330inc gst but don't come with pumps.

The cage in the photos above are from the same skyline too.

Yeah its an R33 GTS-T engine bay thats had a little face lift since you would have seen it at the workshop last.

The small hose running into the top of the duct is connected to a water jet that sprays like a garden sprinkler into the ducting.

I forgot about the ducting photos. These two arent from an australian supercar they are from a current Newzealand V8 touring car. They run a controlled Wilwood calliper and controlled brake duct. Our local supercars use an almost identical ducting setup thats kevlar.

PWR radiator cant go wrong. Im not a fan of the japanese headertank setups, I do my own headers but just make you beed the top of the radiator, high points of the head and have a main filler on it. Ducting has been said before, do it right and most importantly try to get fresh air over the intercooler and to the radiator. You can do something very similar to what I posted above on the GTR. I dont like mounting oil coolers inbetween radiators and intercoolers if its possible to mount them elsewhere. If you must put it there then I always run a dedicated duct for the oil cooler so its radiated heat cant dispurse into the air between the cooler and radiator. Have a rearward couling that forces the air out under the radiator from behind the oil cooler. ( i think that makes sence?) If its track only get rid of the fan all together, seriously its unessisary if you have the cooling system set up properly for a track only car. Undertrays etc just do your reasearch I dont feel they are important as the radiator ducting but they certainly have a place. Buy an electric heated screen for window demisting. They work great but are pricey.