Risking

Also worth mentioning a lot of people comment on how the floor X's and front diagonals must make the chassis stiffer, While they do that their main purpose is to increase side impact distribution.

Just cage modelling correct. We are mainly looking for ways to even out the load distribution and maximise torsional strength. Weight vs ridgity is factored, Obviously as you say there comes a point where the cage just becomes heavier without adding any strength. I questioned the small bars running from the base of the front leg to the chassis rail mounts. When removed we lost side impact resistance on the front leg. 1.1kg worth of bar that was worth while. There wasn't much else that we tried which added any great benifit. The only thing I'd like to have changed is the location of the X between strut towers. I think it should have been wider but engine restrictions prevented it. The engineer we use to do these designs with us here always harps about intersection location. Problem is when you take the design to a car a lot of the time locations can't be exactly where they are desired. I just seen your PM too ill send you a quote tomorrow.

I have done them as a send out kit before but without the car it's impossible to supply lines to suit pre made. What type of car are you fitting it too?

R33 cage painted and ready for assembly Window NACA duct in the R33 R34 cage nearing completion

Steve mentioned people were asking him how the car was going. Update, the cage is nearing completion, hopefully tomorrow the hoop will have its diagonals and the front bases plated up. Fab work left is some new jacking points under the car, pedal box frame and install, seat mounting and a new steering coloum. Then a rewire before being sent off for paint

Hopefully this coming week someone at the shop will find time to clean out the inside and get the engine back in. We've been flat out with customers vehicles recently so haven't had a lot of free time. Justin at pro wire is going to begin wiring the car next week, the old loom was a mess so a new loom and PDM is being installed. I've got new windows being cut for it at the moment and Nacca ducts ready to go in. The diff has been overhauled by diff technics and is right to go now.

Thermo fans are not a step backwards. They are an alternative to a clutch fan. If set up properly and understood they will work as well as a clutch fan. A lot of fans supplied out there are meant to be push fans. Problems occur when people try to use them as pull fans and don't reverse the blades, or the motors polarity. Problems also occur when the fans body isn't mounted flush to the radiator core. The fan will draw air from around the fan body instead of through the core if there is a gap between the core and body. A lot of people also try to use cheap fans of poor blade design and or recycle things like falcon fans that can't be mounted properly to the radiator. If I'm using fans it's spal or nothing, PWR will supply you brackets to mount a spal can flush on the radiator core and it will be a pull type fan suited to the mounting location. I do agree that the massivly thick radiators out there aren't nessiary. You want something that's side flow and at least a twin pass preferably triple pass. Like I wrote about fuel coolers, the longer the fluid if kept inside the radiator the more heat it can potentially disperse.

Those are on an R32 GTR yes. Pretty much every car we build that is going on E85 gets a setup similar to that. Doing one on an R34 GTR today I'm a similar way. Oil temps are usually around 75deh for those coolers but they require switched pumps to circulate to the coolers. Pumps are on at 75 and off at 60. Hollingers recommended oil temp. The fuel systems I've done that have actually had temp sensors put in them show a consistency more than a temp drop. Usually surge tank temperature is around 45degress

This is where and how I usually do undercar cores. These are hollinger and rear diff coolers but could be used as fuel coolers as well. Simple duct that limits the chances or rock damage, Dont ever put a cooler behind a wheel obviously. Those coolers have probably seen more of a beating than any GTR ive ever seen and they havent really taken any massive rock strikes, they do accumulate debris from the circuit and require constant cleaning out with an air blower to keep tire rubber and dust out of the cores.

A cooler core is by far the best way. Problem is through that the fuel travels through the cooler far to quickly to dissipate heat effectivly. The longer its in the cooler the more heat it can dissipate. So the snaked alloy line becomes a viable option because you can make it 2m long by snaking it around and hence increasing the dissipation time of the fuel. (Its going to take longer to get through a 2m tube than a cooler which is 4inches long. Surface area of the cooler is probably less than 2m of alloy tube as well. Install a temp sensor in your tank and test both methods.

It's always going to be slow heating oil in the sump pan. Sensors in the block receive radiated heat through the cast iron as well as the oils temperature. A dry sump for instance with no heater in the tank can take 45mins to reach 60 degrees. The greater the volume the longer it will take to heat up. If your going to measure oil temp in the sump (which I don't agree with, took my variables) It should ideally be done at the top inch of the oil level. Thin hotter oil will sit ontop of the cooler thicker oil. In my supercar we have a sensor top and bottom of the tank there can be 15-20 deg difference top to bottom just having the engine running not even on thr track, the explanation I got from KRE (engine builders for high end race engines) was that the oil can and will have hot and cold spots that change viscosity. Those two sensors should be used to take an average.

The one with R32 GTR came out of the old car the one with nothing written on it was from the new car

I like that. Nice touch buy bolting the chopper plate to the timing gear instead of cutting the key way right through like I've seen some done.

Get a cold cut drop saw like the one at the workshop. No abrasive crap flying everywhere, cold cut joints so no burning yourself. One blade to cut almost everything Blades can be sharped for $25.00 ( I do mine every 3 months) Hare and Forbes sell them or eBay. Abrasive drop saws are rubbish you'll spend more time cleaning up the mess in the garage than doing the job.

It's the white R34 I was doing the other day when you were up. It's a dedicated circuit car, the cage is a chassis brace as well, just because I could. Pedal box and relocated seat with custom steering coloum.

First stage of this monster cage is now done. Basicly there are plates welded to the area of the floor where the chassis rails are spot welded to the fire wall. The tubes running to those plates actually go through the plate and are welded to the inside of the actual chassis rail. The plate is then welded ontop to reinforce the rail to both the cage and the fire wall. There is obviously tirangulation to those critical pick up points. There is 3 bars running out to 3 points on the strut towers. One horozontally out which will oppose the side intrusion. One out to the strut top and tower intersection which is X'ed inside the car and another from the base of the front leg to the side of the tower where the camber arms are bolted to. The bar at the base of the front leg to the chassis rail bars is there for two reasons, one is to aid in a side impact, transfering the force to yet another strong point of the chassis and also to provide a triangulated support for the main rail support bar. enough explaining, enjoy the first stage of what is probably the most comprehensive cage anyones ever put into a skyline.....

I wouldn't bother with af ratio particularly with a narrow band sensor. Oil pressure maybe but a simple hob switch connected to a big red light is much easier to use and be warned by Water temp and oil temp. Same as pressure though a preset temp switch and warning light is more appropriate and easier.

Holly crap they know how to charge up there. I just got a fresh argon. $98.00 delivered inc the months bottle rental.

I did warn you the other day I wanted to modify the pedals and do something extra in the front

I like your torch and purge setup. One of the better thought out ones ive seen

Shop around for your argon. I pay about $110 a refill through BOC. I went to supa gas for a while but their helium mixes were crap so negotiated with BOC and moved back to them.

Photos say it all

Fire wall bars are cut that accuratly we can weld the tube back to the fire wall to seal it up, no cut plates required.... And on the inside shit just got wild Hopefully finish off the front end of the cage tomorrow, few more bars to through to the strut towers and more chassis reinforcement to come.

I'm sure if you walked in with a cash offer he'd find it hard to say no.