Risking

Back Tuesday Andrew. Have a lot of your stuff ready to go too. Waiting on a drive mandrel for the ATi and a couple of small things to arrive.

Hahahahah I like that. I reckon I could screw that over the top of the pedal I've made. I seem your question to Troy. Yes I'm still doing them but only to order nothing kept in stock

The rollcage is now completed and the body has been seam welded. Looks like a mess but once painted will be tidy. The custom steering coloum is also finished. We start with a shaped plate on the firewall and mount a spherical bearing and carrier to the plate. Using 25x2.1mm 4130 tube the steering colum passes through the spherical into the engine bay. I've machined up a basic 6061 series alluminium block to house the upper roller bearing in and support the end of the shaft. More bar work from the bearing plate to the cage and bulk head support the coloum. Modified sparco adaptor is welded into the shift and a roll pin is drilled and banged in for extra security. This steering coloum is exactly how the V8 Supercar colums are done. Pedal box mountings are underway but not completed yet, custom throttle pedal is also underway. We couldn't use a 3 pedal box due to the design of the cage. A custom pedal is being fabricated to clear the lower cage bars.

There is single plate clutches on the market which will handle 500kw...... A twin plate fair enoigh but a quad is by far overkill. Rattle from multi plate clutches is a part of life

No it doesn't lock the clutch pack tighter. If you do that you'll end up winding the transfer case up and smashing it to bits. Once the clutches are engaged that's it. The modification to the actuator holds an adjustable amount of preload onto the actual clutch packs that is usually "free play" which the atessa hydraulic unit needs to take up before the awd will engage. No don't require the car at all to do the modification. Just the transfer case actuator, push rod and about half hour on the phone to explain the setup procedure so it doesn't result in a smashed transfer case.

Where are you located??

I don't understand the point of this thread?? You know what you need to do, you tested two aftermarket clutches and they weren't right so either but a genuine one (which you said wasn't a problem) or a second hand one which you did. Or were you asking if people have had the same issue with aftermarket clutches?

^^^^ There is only 1 Supercar team I know of that run an external water pump system and their cars are abortions. Any Perkins built engine has a Perkins machined factory located water pump KRE built engines use an off the shelf replacement DJR use off the shelf GRM use edelbrock The list goes on. A mate of mine is currently reassembling last years main game Kelly racing cars that were run for reindler and murphy. They have Perkins water pumps that are a super flash CNC'ed housing and as a let down have a factory 5L holden impeller inside them....

Good to hear its still around and not being parted etc. Yes same brad but I'm no longer at autosport. Left a couple of years ago and also ended up doing my own thing, race fabrication and preparation specifically. Haven't spoken to Allan in ages, is he still around the scene or got himself out of racing?

Where about in western Sydney are you located?

Do you know the whereabouts of the car Ben?

If the problem is intermittent I'd be inclined to get a noid light or simple globe and bridge it across the ECU's main relay power supply and use the pump trigger output to ground the light. Obviously if the ecu drops the ground trigger the light will turn off.

I wonder what did happen to this car. Someone will eventually buy it for 1/5th the cost if its sitting around doing nothing....

Looking for a complete dash loom, from the drivers kick panel junction across the dash mounting bar over to the ecu connectors. Prefer the series 2 loom. Proce inc postage to Sydney please?

I know exactly what your referring to as I actually do the modifications to the actuators. The actuator is modified so you can adjust the preload on the actual wet clutch pack inside the transfer case instead if relying on the atessa system to maintain residual line pressure. The r33 clutch pack is slightly different internally. A modified actuator lets you increase the minimum load on the clutch packs and decrease the lag time as the atessa system solonoid opens. It won't make the system react faster to sensor inputs.

It's not overly difficult. Remove the pump and brake lines, use bundy tube and double flare fittings to make up new lines, change master cylinder. I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself if your not experienced with such things as it can turn ugly if you haven't done a flare properly or crack the tube bending it. In nsw if you remove the abs and the abs warning light you can't get knocked back for rego providing a version of the vehicle came without abs from factory. So you couldn't legally remove it on a s15 for example, even the GTR is questionable as most places have never seen an N1.

Do away with the power FC ground trigger all together if you suspect it could be a problem. You can get a timed, rpm triggered relay from any LPG installer. When ignition is supplied the relay activates, it runs for 5 seconds if no RPM signal is received it turns back off. When it receives an RPM signal turns the relay back on and pumps run again. Engine stalls pump will run for 5 seconds more then turn off. We use them to run fuel pumps all the time when the ecu doesn't have enough outputs to run everything. Saves one output when a relay can do the job.

Peterson pump sold, delivered and being fitted to a new home. Barnes 5 stage pump still for sale and was stripped and inspected over Xmas, perfect condition bargain at $400!

I will be tomorrow morning till about 10:30-11:00

I've fabricated this setup recently for a mates race car, his scrapped the project and bought an ex Supercar instead so going to be selling off a heap of gear that was done for his project car. Setrab Core is 300x100x50mm Has -6an fittings read to be plumbed up Brackets to mount under a car just behind the diff Fabricated alloy intake duct with side plates and mesh protection frontage. I can take some photos and email them to buyers if someone is interested. Pick up from Campbeltown or postage is extra $440 inc gst.

Yeah 100% it an be engineered. Suspension modifications can be engineered as long as they are designed and fabricated to a standard the engineer is happy with. I've only done 1 GTR that's been engineered we made some minor changes to satisfy the engineer.

Pretty much mike but not using any custom parts as such. Use off the shelf parts from racer industries (Paul Morris) and touring car teams. Ensures parts are available for at least 6-10 years.

Been done before and have the CAD drawings to prove it The porka uses an odd PCD for the drive pegs compared to most other centre lock wheels. There is two ways to do the conversion one is rather expensive but far superior the other is cheaper, works fine but isn't doing anything for the suspension geometry. I've got a GTR that's had a conversion to use team dynamics touring car wheels. Some teams use left hand threads on one side of the car (Porsche don't) problem you'll have with the Porsche wheels is they need the matching nut that has a different tapper to most, Porsche Motorsport sell them as too does WRS in Cooma QLD. They do wear out fairly quickly and need to be replaced due to the torque they are tightened to. Are you familiar with the special locking systems used to prevent the nut coming loose? The older harrop system is great and fairly easy to fabricate the newer spring loaded socket opperated locks are more reliable but very time consuming to do. The primitive system Brock used to use was great too, a simple inside circlip that protrudes out and stops the nut spinning off. I've used that in the past when the budget was tight. Do you have access to the porka wheels or just buying them from somewhere? Dynamics are now doing 18's from 10's to 12's in any offsett you nominate. They use a more universal PCD and take a conventional captive nut that can be bought used from a lot of touring car teams for 50 bucks each ($500 is the new price for a captive nut from dynamics) You could have a wait for new wheels though. Apparently 888 have an order for 1000 wheels which is being filled over several months.

There is some hope to arguing your plea. One of my good customers had an engine built last year (was sent away for rebuild and refitted at my workshop) The engine builder neglected to check piston to valve clearance at anything other than 0 deg on the cam gears. When it was tunned the cams were adjusted and valves meet pistons ever so slightly (tuner wouldn't have had any idea) engine ran for some 5 race meetings like this and then disintegrated to shrapnel. Engine builder was apprehensive at first and denied responsibility. After some calm discussion and fault finding he came to the party and has rebuilt the engine at no charge. Owner is annoyed that it happened and is very frustrated but that's understandable. performace race engine is a commonly used excuse for "no warranty" The smart mechanical shops have income insurance to cover stuff ups like this. The insurance company will pay to fix the engine if the workshop have made a mistake. Maybe ask them if they have this type of insurance?