Risking

I can do that, but I wouldn't even bother trying to do it without the car and the cooler. I don't do "kit" piping or anything like that. There is no way you can do a decent job without the car. I've seen people try and it ends in tears each time.

I can do the modifications to your sump but you'll have to get it up to Campbeltown. Postage isn't expensive if you remove the front diff center and drive shaft. Brad

Custom fabricated catch can to be sent to QLD. This was done to suit an AE86 thats being built at the moment, from drawings suplied by the owner

I was keeping your car quiet at the moment..... Homolgation papers are due early next week for your cage It doesn't look the same as it did when you dropped it off the other day anymore. Far less of a car remains now!

Here is the completed EVO 9 cage ive been working on for Dash Sport. I received FIA homologation papers for the two 4130 cages in at the moment so work can now begin on those. Nik Kallis' EVO time attack weapon and John Boston's new 180sx project for trackschool Also have an Astra/opel for insight motorsport to do

I have one. Located in sydney

You may want to check the current CAMS shedule J. That cage won't be up to min requirements for a two person ocupancy event like Tarmac rallying anymore. For anything state level + you require roof protection for both sides of the vehicle. ( yours appears to have none at all??) Another state level requirement is a diagonal from both sides of the roof line. Either in the hoop or rear leg section I believe CAMS run most large Tarmac rally's as "national" events Leading to cars logged after 1/1/2012 to require a proper side intrusion bar being of a sectioned X or U with opposing gussets. Also they need a drop bar from the front leg 1st bend to base of said leg. For his intended purpose of SS and track days non of that is required.

Get a propery designed surge tank and lift pump, then you shouldn't have any worries about running the surge low. All you going to do is create another "worry system" in the car. Where does it end. Warnings for surge tank, warning for fuel rail, warning for radiator header tank, warning for oil level, warning for everything that has a level.

Place was a sea of blue covers tonight at lock up. Yes we now cover almost every car during the day and night that is in the workshop. Alot of things are happening over the next few weeks to expand the apeal of the workshop. Floor lighting under the hoists, a new fabrication bay is planned as well as a couple more belly lift hoists for cage work.

I've got a couple of pipes at work I'll take a photo of on Thursday when I go back.

I've done heaps of divided turbo pipes, they do work but having done so many I also found a trick with the divider plate. I leave a small section of the front turbos air path in plated, it allows some of the front turbos air to swirl around into the rear turbos path. A customer of mine who is a fluid scientist type guy explained how making the front turbo swirl around the inside of the pipe before merging with the rear turbo helps promote a lamina flow and draw the air away from the compressor housing thus reducing the shuffle. The mod does seem to improve the issue on all the cars I've ever done one for. Can't hurt to give it a go.

I'll put my hand up and say I can help you with what your after. Have a look at my fabrication thread just a couple of threads under this one for some examples of my work. Located in Campbeltown so not too far from penrith, specializing in race fabrication. Pro fabrication 0404 832 620

For what you want to do there is a heap of various options you could go with from basic halves through to extensive full cages. I'm being fairly picky with what types of cages I'm doing now due to time limitations but an r35 with a decent cage is hard to say no to. If you want to see a couple of designs send me a pm and I'll organize some photos for you. Brad Pro fabrication race engineering 0404 832 620

It'd be more fun and preferable to beat some sense into him......

Just buy a friggin T04z imitation, eBay manifold and bang it together. Stuffing around with all these miss matched rubbish turbos will do your head in and never work. Atleast if the imitation turbo craps out latter your budget may then extend to buying a genuine Garrett and everything you've fabbed should theoretically fit right up. It'll cost you under 1k and be done in under a day. As opposed to friggin around with some wacked turbo combo that someone on the Internet said might work okay, but turns out to be shit.

They certainly are mate. Baffle plate had to be modified as well. Check your PM.

I'll post up some of the data from a couple of GTR's I work with that have motec logging of diff, box and transfer temps.

Can do that for you Neil. I've got something a little better in the making for door handles. Cutting the hole out for the original handle is okay but I've located some really nice billet handles that are used on some GT cars. They will look far neater and don't cost alot

False Floor for the pedal box install in the S2000 Modified catch can for Hanaldo in WA.

New TIG is on the way now. Bought a fronius magic wave. One of my old machines will be up for sale in a week or so. If anyone is keen send me a pm.

I'll check on Monday and let you know. Have you done any data logging to determine if you need a pump/cooler system?

You get what you pay for. I use tilton pumps and have never had any problems with them. I did a fit out for a GTR recently using 4 of them (2x diffs, transfer and hollinger transmission). They are not cheap but well worth the money. The ones I'm using are far from plastic, the pump section is machined alloy with tools steel gears and the motor section is steel. You want to use a pump that has a separate pump section which is sealed from the motor, tool steel gears and then decide if you want a constant flow pump or a triggered pump (they are different motor sections) triggered pumps has a capacitor start feature so they don't draw all the current away from ecu, injectors etc when they turn on and off constantly. You want the oil sealed from the motor for a few reasons. Less heat around the comuntator, brushes etc. No chance of worn comuntator, brush etc getting into the diff oil Serviceability you can replace parts not a whole unit Tool steel gears are a bit noisier but there is massive amount of wear with brass gears which leaves brass in the diff oil. Tool steel gears will probably outlast the car unless they ingest something.

GTR32G (brians old r32) is still local at the moment. I see the owner daily. It's sitting around at the moment, the new owner wouldn't mind doing it, or giving me the car for the day if his not around. Pm me of you really want that car and I'll assist you in organizing it.

Drain is also done.