Risking

Fronts usually pass along the roof section and a pillar though which helps. Sometimes they get reinforced with straight bars too like a drop bar infront of the dash etc. The entire idea is to attempt to keep the hoop upright and in position. Most rollovers result in frontal impact and the hoop is pushed rearward. The bent front legs usually are put into tension and the rears into compression. A compression force put into the bent bar will cause collapse of the bar. A tension force will obviously try to straighten the bar which can't happen to a leg due to it's footing location. When A front leg takes impact on the bend at roof height it won't straighten easily. That was the massive argument that Peter muir had at the ANDRA council meeting which resulted in him walking out of the meeting and further arguments with Shultz carried on

Andra rules confuse me alot of the time. It just goes against all the logic and structural design we do with cams cages. Who decided that bent rear legs have enough strength to support a collapsing hoop. Let alone a leg with two bends..... They don't even require diagonals or any triangulation. Unless the roof is removable you don't even need a roof diagonal. Seems odd too when 95% of my cage work is CAMS/FiA related.

Not intending to be rude or anything but the reason it probably hasn't sold is that it's actually an old model 600 series pedal set. I have one at the workshop that I bought into stock from earls for $650 when the 2011 600 series was released. Masters are $124 per kit each. That's just a touch over 1k of new with warranty value.

Don't use that "amplifier" wiring you have there. Go buy yourself some properly rated battery cable from an auto electrician.

That r35 bar wouldn't do much in a decent front end accident. I've custom made a fair few harness bars, normally using a bolt in system that's reinforced to the rear strut towers or suitable location.

I have a second hand set that never got sold off. No rings, good condition. In sydney

Not sure if anyone else on here has done one before but lotus cages are a right pain in the ass. I did my 5th one today, they never get any easier with their stupid removable roof and fiberglass flexi coulings. Managed to knock 90% of the cage over in 3/4 of a day.

Of all the cages I've seen and done I really can't vision a single bend hoop being remotely close to a good fit. If I was you I'd give the car to a cage builder with a length if your material and get a hoop bent up properly. The cages you see that I've done are built for race only vehicles. I rarely do X breed cars that are street regoed, they are becoming more popular though. The ones I have done Always have two bends and usually fit hard against the trim panels, just to optimize the space inside the car.

See my post above. I've never been asked to do a bolt in andra cage but according to the current manual they allow bolt in cages to a certain ET range

I never recommend bolt in cages for countless reasons. However they do have a place in the industry. CAMS do allow the use of bolt in cages right up to a national level. The FiA do also depending on the type of vehicle construction. There are many bussiness who have made a good profit from supplying bolt in cage kits. They clamp together using fence post like connectors and are absolute rubbish. It's a shame they have sold so many as they really are a poor thing but they do meet the minimum requirements. A better bolt in cage has properly welded sections and the bases are the only parts that a bolted together. When asked to do a bolt in that's the only way I'll do them. I can honestly say I've never done a "fence post" bolt in cage and never will. A bolted in cage that bolts through the floor pan is a waste of time in any impact. In a roll over you need to comprehend how the chassis is constructed. The floor pan is spot welded to the sill panels. The entire weight if the roll over is going to those spot welds. Your going to loose your neck.... The best way to do a bolt in cage is to weld plates to the seat pan that have captive nuts on the underside. The front weld plates shaped like an L to the sill panels and the floor pan again with captive nuts. The rear do the same either the to wheel arch (poor location) or to the strut tower with the same captive nuts. Those locations provide decent mounting points and your not relying on the floor pan In a simple vertical roll over it's been proven that this method is as reliable as a welded in cage. In a more 3 dimension repeat roll it's apparent that when lateral load is placed on the mounts the bolts will break when A weld will remain A properly done bolt in cage will cost more than a weld in cage,(due to labour) a poorly done "cheap" bolt in cage will be cheaper. Another thing I had asked today was in regards to intrusions. There is places saying the U bar intrusions are not okay with CAMS. That's utter rubbish and shouldn't be listened too. If anyone with the internet can open the cams online manual of Motorsport then they could also clearly see that cams prefer the U bar intrusion with opposing gussets over the X style bars. X bars take an hour per side and are dead easy. U bars can take 4 hours per side Inc gussets and can be a pain in the arse to do well. Chances are those out there telling people this don't have the skill or the knowledge to do the U bars properly......

Hahahaha donor..... Just rumage through the piles of parts in the workshop and your sure to find some interesting stuff. Half the good stuff I've forgetten is even there. I'm looking for someone with some talent, email me his details tomorrow. Need another employee.

Sounds like you need a sponsor to pay for the build brighty......

Here is some of yesterdays work. There is alot of time put into these types of cages and having to run the bussiness, adds considerable ammounts of time to the job First up after the legs and hoop are done is the front windscreen support bar. This has two bends and sit about 10mm rearward of the screen bulkhead at roof level Following that are the two bars that form the roof X. They are again bent uptowards the roof and are knotched into the intersection the front leg and screen support bar form. The meet the main hoop at roof level at a pre planned position where the rear legs will also meet the hoop. It now looks like this tacked together Next some of the most important bars in a 4130 cage. The leg and screen additional support bars. The front screen bars are straight and meet the screen support bar at a location determined by the simulations. The hoop to leg supports done in this cage are bent outwards towards the B pillar to allow room for the seat to fit comfortably. Ive also done them to follow the line of the B pillar so from the outside of the car they are not as obvious. All sitting in position with those bars this is it. The cage is now dropped from its base feet and the top sections are fully welded. Photos of how thats done latter.

Catch can pm sent. Will track it down tonight. Matt shoot me an email about your order. Wont get me on the phone for the next couple of weeks. I believe it has been sent will confirm and reply to your email with the postage details.

That's an odd length dimension. Most lengths I see are either 6.8 or 7.2. Email me a list of what you need and happy to send you a quote when I get a chance. There are also various types of CDW out there. Some I've found are grainy as hell and horrible to work with. One supplier has an abundance of that stuff at the moment and is selling it off very cheap. The good stuff is alot nicer to weld, has a good surface finish and isn't as cheap.

What I pay and what it gets sold for a two very different things. I buy enough material at a time to do 30 cages. I know race tech and performance metals are currently selling CDW for $9-14/meter. CDS for between $14-22/meter 4130 goes for $19-32/meter

This one is being done for an a customer who is on SAU but will own up to the car if they want to. The car came to me as a complete imaculate rolling shell. Dylan has become extremely handy at getting these things pulled down and made short work of stripping the interior and then all the sound deadening and alot of the body sealer too This is what a car needs to be stripped down to for a job like this to be done properly. The shell still needs some preperation before the cage can be done. In the front ive removed the factory dash bar brackets on the A pillar. Reason for this will become apparent latter on. But it needs to be done now. Also any other brackets and studs are cut or drilled out now before going any further. The car at this stage is also leveled on stands or my hoist pad depending which part of the workshop its going to. The reason for leveling the chassis is so we dont permanantly fix a tweak into the body if there is something mismatched about the ride heights or spring rates etc etc On the hoist bed (belly lifter) there is also points to strap the chassis down should it have a tweak that gravity and stands can rectify. Once the chassis is level I can measure it up and get a hoop drafted. Base plates are then fabricated and can be tack welded into position. There is heaps of different ways to do these but it all comes down to which way your comfortable with welding the hoop. In this case ive opted to do a corner reinforcement base. it will provide a gusset in the corner of the seat pan and sill pannel. It will also provide me with a good base for something a little tricky latter on in the cage fabrication. The legs also got done yesterday afternoon but more on those after todays work. Hoop bent up and installed it now looks like this

Hahaha yeah I've done my fair share of cages. We're not even 6months into the year and I'm into the 9th large cage so far for 2012. I had a look in my diary today and there is already 8 more penciled in to be called up when time permits. I'm doing a really large FiA T67 cage in an r32 currently. I might do a photo diary of it's construction on here.

Try sending to Brad@profabrication,com.au

R32 GTR Drafts done for FiA homologation. We are using a recognised software recommended by the FiA. Its fairly powerful stuff specificly written to design and simulate cages. Ive now bent up a couple of hoops and legs using no templates only the software drawings, touch wood they have been prefectly accurate. Obviously the software can only be as accurate as the information it is given though. And a pair from the R34 drafts If people want to see more drawings and more of the indepth FEA anylise then I have loads more that can be posted up.

Cams and 4130 is not an overly easy thing to do though. There is a couple of ways to go about it. Build the cage to all the material dimension requirements but use 4130 instead. The cage builder must contact cams before beginning and request a 2nd dossier that needs to be completed. It requires detailed drawings and each bar to be described in detail. Cams then provide a separate authority number and form. Cage won't be any lighter than a conventional CDS version as 4130 is almost identical weight per cubic inch. 2nd way to submit a dossier to the FIA/CAMS. Attached must be a more comprehensive drawing of the cage, bar descriptions and the expensive part the FiA recognized engineers reports with FEA simulations. Dynamic load tests, repeat cycle load simulations and specified load tests post initial material deformation. The homologation papers are then provided to the cage builder and further inspections are required after construction. Advantages are we can use material down to 1.6mm in some areas. Obviously being lighter than the CDS. The age will ultimately be stronger due to more diagonal construction being required and the increased tensile strength of 4130/T6 Disadvantages cost of the engineering and FiA paperwork, the additional bar work required obviously extends the cost even further as more material is needed and the bars required are usually fairly complicated buggers so the labour cost goes up as well. The final way which I've seen many failures and some success with is T6 cage kits from places like Custom cages in the UK. They apply for the FIA homologation and provide you with a kit. The installer must pass a weld test before the papers are given to you though. Also the FiA regs change constantly and I've had cages come across to aus that have changed hands several times and are no longer up to date. What seems cheap for a T6 cage could end up being useless when you apply for certification. Best to contact Rupert at cams before buying an overseas or local cage to confirm the homogation is current for the specific cage kit your buying. I'll post up a couple of FiA submitted cages I've done in the last couple of days. One is for an r34 4130, an s13 and an r32 GTR. All are being done the 2nd option way which in my opinion is the only beneficial way to do a 4130/T6 cage in aus and never have a problem with compliance. Andra have a totally different set of 4130 rules which require no form of dossiers, applications etc just post inspections and in my opinion silly ways of allowing cages to Be built with bent rear legs and 0 triangulation etc.

Hahahaha don't worry we both have your best interest in mind. That's the exact reason I wanted them as well!

If they haven't sold, drop them by the workshop or I'll pick them up. Sure I can find a good home for them.

Have stock shocks and springsin Sydney

Fully assembled and freshly serviced PPG with hollinger type input shaft. Straight cut dog engagement. Removed due to GTR hollinger upgrade. I'll check but I'm sure the owner wanted 6.5 or 7k