R32 TT

Hi Nedi, the Quaife diff is not really a like a 2way, or 1.5 way. I guess it it is more like a 1 way. But it really is a completely different design to clutch pack diffs like Nismo, Kaaz, Os Giken etc.. The Quaife diff uses gears to transfer torque to the wheel with most grip. The Quaife will not clunk or shudder under any circumstances. And it should 'lock up' very progressively as torque is applied. Granted there are some very good clutch diffs like Tricstar was mentioning too. I haven't used/experienced them all - but the Quaife makes good sense as a front diff if you ask me. And I'd like to try a rear to compare against my GT Pro 1.5 if they are ever produced.

+1 also. Fully assembled my head, including light port work from ground up. So far it appears to work...

You running a speed controller on the Weldon?

So what sort of intake temps were you logging?

Excellent. I am allowed back!

Baaahhhh! Always bad timing! Car not quite ready yet - but I'll come down with some Pom-Poms and support the team!

At first it feels like stock open center. Don't even know its there. But on corner exit the car turns in at the front more and just hauls out of corners. There is also less 'aggressive' torque steer, its smoother. I think its a very good thing for a front diff. I run a Nismo GT-Pro 1.5 in the rear. I'm a bit on the fence about if the Quaife would outperform it for out and out hard circuit stuff, but the Quaife would be far easier to live with and possibly better in the wet on tight stuff. In the wet, the Nismo tends to push understeer the car into a short corner or flick out mid exit, not very progressive in slippery conditions. I'd be interested in doing the experiment. But I'd hold onto the Nismo, ready to put back in the rear if it didn't work out as expected.

Hmmm.. interested. I have one in the front - but they didn't make one for the rear at the time. Are you trying to get them to 'make' one for the rear if you get 10 are you?

White R33 with SAUWA sticker coming out of Bunnings on Armadale Road near the freeway about lunchtime. Sounded alright.

Cam this is also a good website to keep you in the loop with whats coming up.. www.clubracer.net.au See you out there.. !

Yep, but in black. Very nicely made and packaged too.

I could be wrong, but lets say the Alternator is 100A unit. That's 100A x 12v = 1200Watts (1.2 Kw) at full load. A bit of googling suggests alternators are about 50% efficient. So to provide a full blown 100A continous to drive all your accessories, lights, pumps, fans etc would be up to 2.5kw. Does that sound right? (Auto Sparkies please correct me) (by the way, I am not arguing with you, if you want to save anything you can, then go for it - but this might be the figure you're talking about saving if what I say above it correct?) Worth weighing up against the possibility of the extra hassle involved that's all.

Yes at the end of the day I'd agree with this.. the thermo is taking all of what. 0.5kw ? In that case you may as well run it full time.

funnily enough I just replied to another thread about thermos a few down from this. I suggested that if you have the right ECU, you can have them turn off when the car is above a certain speed (e.g. 60km/hr +) as I do. You have all the air-flow you require, as soon as you button off and cruise in to the pits or cool down lap they are back on when you actually need them. Previous to this I also did something based on RPM/Temp. (Because at the time I didn't have a speed signal) In this setup, the fans are off above say 4000rpm when the car it clearly running at speed. But when you are in 5th crusing at 2500rpm, such as during your cool down, - they are on. All comes down to your ECU capabilit on what you choose.

Well I don't think there is much advantage with the pump not running. Different if you have an electric water pump.. But I could be wrong and perhaps there is a lot more convection that I think, someone more knowlegable on that might be able to chime in. Nope and that's why I have them go off when I get above 60km/hr.. but they don't come on until I am going under 40km/hr.. they are not going on/off/on at 59-61km/hr... Plus stop and think about it. You are on the track (or anywhere for that matter) and come to a slow hairpin bend. You've just come off a straight and your temp is 85 degrees. For the 3 - 5 seconds you are in the hairpin at 45 km/hr and no fan, do you think your temp is going to race to 100 degrees? Not likely is it... I run my car with the setup I mentioned in my first post - I wasn't giving you theory - and it works fine for me. But setups are different The easiest thing for you to do is simply try it. Its only a software/programming change in the ECU, we're not talking about the choice between two different turbos. Give it a go and see what works.

Doesn't matter a lot. Your water pump also happens to stop pumping when the Haltech Turns off... A little convection happens, but not a real advantage to cool the radiator when the water isn't being pumped around.

The idea is that once above 60km/hr (or 70, or 80 - you choose), you already have more air flow than the fans can supply. Admittedly yes, the fan will create a low pressure side, but really it isn't necessary in my experience at least. "If you have enough airflow it will be cool enough and the fans wont come on anyway." Not really true in practice. If you are belting it around the circuit, constantly turning 5000-7500rpm it can sit happily at 90 degrees even if the fan IS on. Having it on is not really helping, just pointlessly drawing 30 amps and putting extra load on the alternator. Admittedly my car is less street, more track oriented. I have not really noticed any dramas in traffic or following other cars at 60km/hr - but then I don't follow so close for it to be a problem. Personally I think if you are going to have a fan running at full bore while doing 100km/hr then I think that setup is pointless - stick with the viscous. But each to their own.

That works for me. SPAL 16" that comes on above 87 degrees and goes off when back under 85 degrees. The front air con blower fan comes on at 92 degrees and also goes off once below 85 degrees. This means if the car has got hot then both fans kick in until it's back down again. On top of that it's speed related. Both fans, regardless of temp go off once above 60 km/ hr. And each will come back on (depending on temp) once car is going slower than 40km/hr. Works well for track since as you slow down back into the pits both will come on a do a fast cool down..

Yeah I knew you meant cams, I was just stirring you up.. I know how GTR's with grip annoy you.

Hope those springs you're talking about are soft ones... For the rear of the car mate...

And don't forget you can bump up the base fuel pressure..

Ah ok. Well I didn't know or think of that.

Well it should not matter if the battery is connected or not.. "shouldn't". Once the car is started all electrical power comes from the Alternator and the Battery just becomes another load, like headlights.. ie because it is being charged. You should be able to start your car, then pull the battery cable off the terminal ad everything should keep running...

Not super low. 355mm center of wheel to guard, but it does see track time mostly, and this is where the problem happens so I'll have a closer look there - cheers, just the kinds of tips I was looking for.