R32 TT

well worth the read if you're interested. http://www.bhjdynamics.com/downloads/pdf/tech/BHJDynamics_Damper_Info.pdf

Well, I think the 'promise' is that the aftermarket damper (it is not actually a balancer lets remember) is to provide more/better damping that the original damper was designed for. Thats why you often see them rated via horsepower as this is some indication of the amount of 'twist' a crankshaft can experience on a modified engine. I spoke to ATI at SEMA last year and they were adamant that if I was pushing 600+ hp then I should be using the larger 7" body rated to 1000hp. Now of course there is always the marketing side. ATI do hold some patents though and if you read them it sounds quite plausible about how it works and why it is better. The problem any of us have is that it is not measureble (easily). You can see the results of a bigger turbo on Dyno, or a better radiator via the temp gauge etc. When a damper throws a belt that was not being thrown before (all else being the same) then I wonder if the harmonics are not being dampened as well as they should be and the 'gauge' is the belt flying off ! (or the oil pump breaking etc) To fit an idler pulley solves in part the 'symptom' of the belt coming off - but has it fixed the underlying, more important issue? Hence I think a standard damper is probably a better option is cases where we just don't know. But - ATI are used on just about all NASCAR engines etc too... and I've seen charts of their harmonic damping actually tested. So!! I don't know.... : /

Weeeelll, well. Looks like I won't be giving any head starts at Powercruise after all. Finally bringing a gun to the knife fight mate!

He can't, he'll be in Perth.

That's good news Amon. I asked Ross some months back if he thought it could be the coating - as he insisted there was no difference (measured up) between the ATI and the ROSS. I wonder if perhaps the anodising is somehow making it "grip up" ? Mine already had been machined down from Ross - this is something they had already struck apparently. Interesting that yours which I assume is not as old as mine, still had the lip...

I'm having a problem using a 26 balancer with 26 power steerin pump and bracket on a 2630. Bear in mind this problem did not exist when using the ATI. Mark Berry had same problem. Piggaz also was having same issue which I think was 33 balancer on RB26 (2.8) with correct power steering pump etc. No prob prior to fitment either. Correct Paul?

Sounds promising. Definitely let us know the results after the track.

Quick thread revival.. Just wondering how the OP went in the end? Did you fix your problem??

ah yeah right cause it says 2.8 on it... making you somewhat different to all the other fags having their motor built there..

$100 bucks he says GT-SS

....Power to Weight... awesome!

Haha! Sounds like it could have been a Datsun 120Y and you might thought it looked alright eh??

All good advice but I'll just say I think that he would only require a CAMS Level2s licence and these are about $100 for a year (and last a full year from there). Only some of the bigger licences such as National Rally and National Circuit Licence are $300 + Wish I had come down for a look - good to hear there are few of you getting up there for a run !

..woof! nice work...

wow - that will be an impressive launch... !

Piggaz, click me ...this is all that appears to be going on mate!

Beat me to it - my question exactly.

yeah I wondered the same thing. Surely the oil that blows out of the top of the motor (instead of draining straight back down through oil galleries), and goes directly to a catch can, which then drains directly (and immediately) back to the sump is kind of the same thing? Its simply taken a detour..?

ohhh, so its gonna be like that is it.... You sir, are not right in the head. 8000rpm and drop the clutch?? That thing of yours must love the abuse.. and your car does too. Get a real ECU. Motec randomiser and soft cut allows you to pick a RPM window to cut. So if you set a 300rpm window it could start to cut some cylinders a 8000 and increase to full cut by 8300rpm. The wider the window the more gradual the cut.

...everytime I do it - I throw a power steering belt....

...in fact, take the motor out and they clear easily...

I've got exactly what you're talking about on mine. BBS LM's 18x10 +20 wearing 265/35/18. You'll want a little bit of camber - but they fit.

...you know.... that hurts a little. I brought it on myself, but still.. where's the love.

So the question on everyones lips (or mine) is what exactly makes them shit? I can understand that newer designs/materials etc could make a better one - hence why I bought an ATI in the first place, but I am interested in why you say that - how does one 'measure' how well one damper is compared to another without some pretty special equipment? ie something in your experience must have lead you to this?

yeah got the idler kit Joey - it did help - how could it not - but we noticed the belt still tried to walk up the back of the damper. Plus I want to know why my ATI ran without an idler and never had the issue. Remember this was the ONLY change. And hence why I was suss about it. As Ross pointed out though, RB26 Power Steering pumps often seem to be a little on the piss, hence we went to some effort to replace the bracket - face it and line it all up with a laser. Fat lot of good that did me though.. I am almost wondering if something has happened to the crank nose during changing them or something - makes no sense. My car is only a baby in RB30 terms mate. 20psi - 350rwkw. Spins too 7200rpm - soft limiter courtesy Motec. Plus I drive like a pussy according to Gav. So I'm not bouncing off a 9krpm limiter or anything. Frustrating doing power steering belts and then burning the crap out of yourself changing them between runs at an event. And one of them coming off decided to tear into my Spal Thermo wiring... grrrr...