R32 TT

Pretty sure its 90mm pipe and around a 5" Tip. Thanks for the freight approximation Hadouken .. I probably am willing - but also lazy! So was hoping for local pickup... but if I have to wrap the bastard up and you organise someone to pick up - then I guess I'll make an effort.. (and I just realised there is a WA For Sale section...)

Hi guys, These front pipes are twin 80mm fronts and have a custom made 4" collector. They were originally (I think) a set of Stainless Mines for an RB26. I had them lengthened to suit the higher RB30 Block, and ceramic coated. Later on they has the collector modified to 4" - but was never ceramic coated. Will suit an RB26/30 looking to run low-mount twins such as -5's and the newer GTX variants. 600ml Iced coffee for size comparison only - not included in the sale $300 ono. Based in Perth and prefer local pickup.

As per title. This was purchased brand new and has done around 5000km's. Still in very good condition. Made good power on it - upgraded to full titanium system, otherwise will still be happily running this on 450rwkw. $480 ono. Am based in Perth - prefer local pickup.

Bought the Nismo GT-Pro Center brand new for over $1300 delivered.. Is complete in fully assembled diff by Greg Dally with standard 4.1 ratios. has done (at a guess) around 5000km's which have - most of of which would be road km's (but has done some club sprints). Still in very good condition - has been sitting in the warehouse as a spare but just no longer required. $1000.00 for complete unit. Am based in Perth - and due to weight - would much prefer local pickup, north of the river.

Haha - I just can't bring myself to go a sequential Rich - there is just something about driving a clutch pedal and H Pattern which feels like driving.. I know sequential will be faster - but it takes something away.. maybe one day I'll change my mind. pesky EVO's - will never catch the front runners, but might pick a few off..

...come on mate...

Interesting your feedback on the BSM team there Mick and yes I can see why sometimes longer legs and less gear changes can help - so I'll have a think. Do you reckon that car is quite 'tuned' to a specific track? Or did that work across the board at all circuits it goes to? Over here in Perth we don't have tracks with very long straights like say PI, and so rarely would I have a place to hit more than 230-240km/hr (back straight of Barbagallo). Even with 4.3 I can easily make that speed. I'm not really into drags, so it doesn't bother me if I needed a gear change to 5th on the 400m.. The best part of the drags is the left hander at the end... And in any case on the drag strip you are never out of the power band. So for Drags and any larger flowing circuit, you rarely come down below 4000rpm anywhere and the power is just always there.. But over here, aside from Barbagallo circuit, there are other Tarmac Rally Sprints at various venues which might see 200km/hr tops in some parts - but have tight chicanes and hairpins as well - sometimes taking me down to 2500-2700rpm in 2nd but not quite wanting 1st gear either. EVO's rip out of these short corners and you can see it in the way they are geared. This is the main reason I am looking at it, to try and get some slow corner exit speed when up against EVO's and supercharged Lotus' etc.. I figure anything that improves in-gear accel is a good thing and as a bonus I figure its got to be easier on the gearbox and 3rd.. giving it mechanical advantage and less stress. Just really gathering parts at the moment - so I'll have a think before I jump. But didn't want to go to all the effort with 4.363 and then get told "ahhhh mate - you should have gone 4.375!!" (you can hear it can't you...)

I think its come out of a R34 GT-four. I purchased it complete with the 4WD sump etc.. (so same at GTR 4WD sump etc). Just my concern being it came out of a NA car - more teeth on CW&P so perhaps weaker? Or perhaps more efficient and less heat.... but good to know that typically they don't break - so I assume I should be ok with it. (mind you I just busted a chain in a fully rebuilt transfer case - and you don't hear of that often either)

Hi guys, Just looking to lower ratios in my 32 GTR from 4.1 down to the 4.4 region. Mostly I see reference to the 4.375 ratios out of GTS4's. However I've managed to get hold of a 4.363 unit for front (and would need to find a matching rear). Obviously the ratios are more or less exactly the same, but they get there slightly differently: 4.363 = 48:11 4.375 = 35:8 I am just wondering if anyone has had any experience if one is weaker than the other - or if there is any reason you would use on in favour of the other? cheers!

Mines is in - in a word - perfect. Runs like a stock diff (or even better) in the car park. Completely unaware its an LSD. No clunks, bangs or judders - just smooth as. But - out on the track and launches etc - if you told me the car had a Nismo GT Pro in it I wouldn't argue. Hooks up great and feels 'progressive' mid-corner. Was in a sprint race and there is a long right hander which when you come to the end of it and nail the throttle, the back steps out and hooks up. I won't be putting the Nismo back in. Quaife front and rear in mine.

I'll be there! We can swap - just like the old days and those Swingers parties..

Actually it is a little bit relevant to the question. Initially when this mod was done years back - it was definitely thought of as a drain foremost, and a breather second. The reason it was taken to the turbo side of the sump was because it was thought the rotation of the crank causes a slight vacuum on that side, helping to draw oil down the drain. It was later argued that under heavy acceleration (when you need it most) that the oil would never flow 'forwards' from the back of the head to the front of the sump.. and then later people considered it worked moreso as a breather. I used to run the back of the head drain and have since removed it. Instead I have vented the Intake side of the sump, up to a catch can. This still 'breathes' but not back to the head, and then from the head to the catch can... just straight to the catch can. Does that answer your question?

Thanks Adam, I might give Award a call and see what their thoughts are on it.. I've always run Redline Shockproof in my stock box.. PPG recommend the Motul 75W140 though - but as above - can't now be 100% certain that was the oil in it when the damage was done.

Thanks Jiffo - that does make sense. now we've had a closer look at the gears some opinions are that the oil shear just couldn't cope. Perhaps this was because it was under-lubricated, or perhaps simply the oil could not take it. I just realised that I did not note in my first post the box originally ran Castrol 75W90 Syntrax in it for the first 200kms of 'hard kms' or so - and only recently was running Motul 75W140. The question might be that perhaps the lighter oil couldn't withstand it, and perhaps the damage was done then.. Either way - its interesting its only on 3rd - and your explanation could be a valid one. Cooling the oil onto third just might give the extra 10% it needs to avoid shear though... we won't know until we try I guess.

Hi guys, Has anyone fitted an electric oil pump and cooler to their GTR gearbox? And/or have you done any mods to the return to direct oil directly at 3rd gear? Everyone knows GTR boxes tend to break 3rd gear (most common). I happened to pull down my PPG box to fix a simple syncro issue on first gear and we noted wear on third gear.. no wear on other gears. PPG have looked it and seem to think its lack of oiling. I am running Motul 75W140 - so a good oil and yes it was 'full'. It was suggested that with a hard launch, gear oil moves to the back of the gearbox, engulfing 1st and 2nd gear, but leaving 3rd with little on it.. by the time you do get into 3rd, there may not be sufficient oil to protect. And then of course you spend more time in 3rd than the previous two gears... hence wear on the teeth. So perhaps - all these broken 3rd gears are partly because over time the gears get worn due to lack of lubrication.. then one day you give it some hard accel and bam 3rd gear breaks. Most people assume the gear was not strong enough - but perhaps it was prematurely weakened? I note plenty of mods for thing like Porsche 915 boxes, rally cars etc that introduce spray bars to spray oil directly onto the gears for this very reason. And of course cooling the oil onto the gears doesn't hurt either. I'm about to design something up to do this - but before I reinvent the wheel - has anyone done this kind of mod? thoughts?

Still got this gear -anyone doing an e-Flex tune?

Sold! Thanks Paul - good luck with the project mate

Hi guys, this is still up for sale - brand new in the box with all bits!

still available!

Hi Guys, Won't be needing this anymore as car has gone to full time E85. Was going to use it so that I could run a blended fuel and it will give an output to the ECU (as most of you would already know!) Is brand new in box! $350.00

Hi guys, A year or so ago I bought this bad boy with the intention of upgrading my fuel system. Back at the time it didn't look like I was going to be using E85, only 98 or RaceFuel. So it was perfect. E85 had become available on Pump here in WA so plans have changed and since I'm now making about 700hp (at engine) I am going to need a larger pump. So this is brand new in the box. Never used. $500 firm. To get one here from the states will be closer to $700 with freight, GST etc.. Good for 1000hp on Pump. About 700hp on E85. Perfect for surge tank, the pump remains cooler and is less noisy...

Hi Guys, Have some JE Pistons for RB26 that are brand new in box. The ceramic coating was an option ticked when ordering them so have come from JE this way. $900 ono.

BWRGTR what you have there is exactly what I am running now. It does work well for circuit. No doubt.

Oh yeah ok I get that. The amount of time a rear wheel is in the air should be minimal though.. But will report back. If it doesn't work out then the GTpro goes back in.

You think it's going to be spin city?