Psymon

I know of 2 people who have paid around the 15k mark for a 32 and i've seen more than one instance of people paying more. I paid 7 for mine because no one wanted an auto... 1k later for a manual conversion and mines as good as the rest! Clearly it's because R32 = epic win!

I used the one in mitchell the other day because i wanted the under body spray. No good on the paint though.

Probably worth it to go all out while you have the block out of the car and it's easy. If you're keen do all the gaskets and seals. Might even be worth doing those gay fiddly heater hoses under the inlet manifold while its out. At least then you have piece of mind that you wont have to worry about it again for a long time.

I had a similar problem to what you are describing in my 32. I did fuel pump and bigger injectors in one go. One of them fixed it. Since you are only running std boost maybe your fuel pump is dying.

What effect does rake have on the balance and handling of the car?

It's had a re-map done to suit the gtr injectors.

I recently fitted GTR injectors to my RB20. Since then i have been having a bit of a missing or surging problem. Driving around at 1/4 or half throttle it drives fine. But when i give it everything it seems to jerk and miss for a second or two... then it comes on nice and hard all the way to redline. I also get the problem that when i shift gears quickly say from 1st to 2nd or from 2nd to 3rd it will jerk and cut in and out. I have to ease the throttle on so it wont do this. I have to shift so slowly that it takes all the fun out of it! Anyone have any ideas what could be happening here?

Its common knowledge that bee-r limiters aren't great for turbos... but for one to cause that sort of failure? I dunno... i'm sure it had its part but i think there could have been more to it.

Any more info on these aerocatch bonnet pins?

Unless the bee-r was put on when HPI built it?

Probably a dilectric grease that was put on years ago. Used on electrical connections, it helps keep moisture out and the terminals clean etc.

Hey mate, there are aftermarket new seatbelts available for your R32 but don't expect them to be cheap. http://www.autolivaftermarket.com/pr-replacement2.asp You can get the part numbers from that site, be careful because i think 4 doors and 2 doors use different part numbers. From there any autobarn can order them in for you. Cheers, Simon.

Saw you out and about the other night... sounds like that turbo comes on nice and hard on the little rb20

I was... but you already told me

I have one of those cheap ebay short shifter kits for my R32 and its missing the main metal ring that goes in first. Basically i need it quickly so i'm going to have one made up if i can. I need the measurements of this ring so i can get it made. If anyone can help out that would be awesome.

CeJay S T A R 3 3 Baconer Tuk Tuk LadyBytes Bluprint a20089 mrgilly Ecstasy Turismo zenith13 sigsputnik Frink Bullet32 zooee (Rob) BNR32t datto260z Donnan MANG stunnd SL33KY Psymon I'll try my best to get there. Even if i have to put a permit on and drive down there.

Yeah i used all standard R32 parts when i did the conversion so no problem there. They would probably notice because of the gear indicator thingy on the dash cluster.

I'm taking my car over dickson soon and i have one quick query. My car used to be an automatic but the auto blew up last year so i took the opportunity to convert it to a manual. I did the conversion at home in my garage myself (as far as i know i did it properly because it's now a year later with no problems). Will i have to get this conversion engineered? Also on this topic do the guys at dickson have any problems with hicas lock bars? Cheers guys. Simon

I broke the pintle cap on one of my RB26 injectors just now. I've managed to salvage a pintle cap from one of my rb20 injectors. I'm wondering if this will suffice or if its going to affect the spray pattern of the injector at all? It went on fine and its on there nice and firm. Looking at it, it looks alright. The holes are the same size between the two. Just want to make sure it will work fine before i get it all back together. Cheers Simon

*double post*

Just finished wiring up the ballast resistor into my loom for GTR injectors. Came time to plug in the injectors and noticed the plugs on my loom dont suit the injectors. On the injector there was a little tab on the outside of the case which had to be removed which i think CEFFIE mentioned in Roys tutorial, but i also have a little tab on the inside of the plug on the injector (sorta on the bottom between the two spade terminals) which is getting in the way. This seems like it will be a bit harder to remove without damaging things. So i'm wondering if anyone has come across this before. Is there an easy way to cut off all the plastic thats in the way and once thats done will the plugs sit fine without the risk of them coming loose? Or is it going to be easier for me to try and find the right plugs to suit the injecotors and solder them on to my loom? Cheers Simon

Loctite freeze n release... meant to freeze it to something like -42 degrees and lubricate it at the same time. Haven't tried it yet so don't know how well it works. Might be worth a shot though.

As the title said i need some info about Rb30 injectors from N/A skyline/vl etc. High or low impedence? Top or side feed? I ask because i have a set of standard Rb20 injectors i pulled from my car and i guy i know needs an upgrade for his N/A vl and was wondering if mine would fit. Cheers Simon

If you're going to take it somewhere to get it done then you should probably get the lot done, like tacker said the rest wont be far behind. I learnt that the hard way. A company called samco do kits that replace both radiator hoses and all heater hoses with silicone for some skylines. Don't know if they do them for the RB20 though. Might be worth looking into.

Noid lights i think they're called.