sl33py

+1 for BDL stereo. Adam does a great job.

Sounds good. Make it so.

Anything happening tonight?

+1 for Trojan. They don't own a dyno (yet) but work on GTRs, so would have access to one.

Congratulations, and salutations Uh oh, Cliff Richard will try to sue me now

Saw Zane heading out to the Hillclimb about 2.30-3pm yesterday as I went home. Gave/got. Also saw the silver R35 GTR while passing the airport!

He's not desperate then. BTW, I'd be wary of a 'desperate' seller.... desperate quite possibly means he's trying to offload a POS! um yeah, I guess it depends on the model, but my roof also = rear quarters = big/cbf job

Whatever Optima Yellowtop is. It's a deep cycle battery, meaning the charge level can drop to pretty darn low levels (ie won't crank at all) and still be recharged to normal Might come in handy Alex!

Haha if I can do it, you can Kat! You can also cut the plastic cover in half neatly if you want to be able to get it on/off without too much pain in the butt. Mine's like that, can hardly tell unless you look closely.

Yeah was about to say there's already a thread. Coilpack cover - I doubt the plastic cover would make any difference while they're working. Might extend their life one extra week over the course of a decade And if they're stuffed/on the way out, just having the cover off won't help, cos it's the electricity arcing out to the block, the heat has already made it's impact. The trouble is knackered coilpacks is that it can be hidden (to a degree) by reducing the plug gaps, making arcing just a little less likely. But it reappears eventually (caryard did this to me when I bought mine). I'm thinking about a new set of spark leads too, see if it fixes up the occasional miss at idle (and across the revs too, I bet). btw: to test for coilpacks being stuffed: remove the cover, wait til night, find some quiet road, warm the car up, do 4-5 HARD accelerations (hard LAUNCH isn't important, revving out IS, you want boost and engine heat), then pull over somewhere without streetlights, pop the hood, look into the engine with your head directly over the block. Against the dark of night, you should be able to easily see the arc jumping... just don't stick your head too close hehe

Mick summed it up pretty well. I would add: 1) Judge the car by it's condition rather than the km's on the clock, since it's well known that people mess with the odometers of imported clocks (ie wound back to look newer). 2) It might seem silly, but if you're looking at stock(-ish) cars, pay attention to bolts/clips/screws etc. The more cars you'll look at, the easier you'll be able to tell when fixtures are non original, and it means some work or modifications have been done there. EG if there's a random bracket sitting in the engine bay, ask yourself, wtf did that used to hold... maybe a boost controller? maybe something as innocent as where an alarm used to be. Check out as many engine bays/cars of the sort you want to buy, that way you'll be able to tell the subtle differences between them. Take a mate 'in the know' too if you can. 3) Check the paint very closely along the edges of the black window linings. A lot of places don't bother to pull out the linings when repainting a car and simply tape around. Mine has this (since before I owned it) Repainted panels more often than not = repaired crash damage. 4) If it's a 33, play with the AC a LOT!! They are well known to f*ck up over time - the cogs which control where the air goes sometimes snap off, leaving the AC system going "clack clack clack". Most annoying, and the motors themselves are about 100 each, but the labour to put them in is NUTS! Right down in the depths of the dash. Just take the AC through its range of temps and also change where the fan is blowing. That should show it if its happening. It may also do it when the car is started up. 5) As nice as it might be to check out the stereo, do that while stationary When driving, listen to the engine! 6) Check for leaks in the boot. Undo the trim on the left side of the boot, you can see down into the area actually UNDER the boot space. I had a leak there for a while which I didn't know about cos it's hidden away. Also pull out the boot floor and tyre and check for signs of water/rust. 7) Very few cars will be perfect... go for 1) mechanical condition 2) interior condition 3) 'niceties' ie it has the kind of stereo you like already. You may well end up having to choose a car which is 95% perfect and just needs a bit of twiddling. Just make sure you know how much that 5% will cost you, especially if it's related to road-worthiness! I guess that's just bargaining room though 8) BIGGY: Allow another 10-15% of the cost of the car for stuff that WILL go wrong It's... inevitable Mr Anderson *grimace*

Eat that Porsche.

OH. There. Sorted. I just don't recall seein' a boat ramp

Where's the boat ramp? Don't think I've been there yet.

Would be col if he answered "uhhh R35 or something... is that good?" haha Welcome

Yeah, hope it's just the sensor has come disconnected or something, if it's a buggered sensor itself... that's workable.. if it's the DASH itself... ugly + labour.

Negatory! Moderate chance of storm and extremely high chance of falling asleep behind the wheel haha Knackered..

Just now: James, Miranda and Mark next to the casino. The new rims look good

Shark thing was a bit dumb. But I only had it on in the background while doing other stuff. "That car's grouse!" haha who even says that. Wooo, crazy stock stuff happenin.. consequently, price of oil has dropped. Sif it'll have any impact on us though! Just means someone will line their pockets even more.