sl33py

Nah, I'm talking about the fact that noone would run a 2835 at much less than 16-17PSI (someone tell me if I'm wrong here), because it's out of it's ideal band of operation, so the data below that area is kinda useless information. That is one of the ppl I PMed (Al, I think, cbf going and checking), he had cams and a buttload of other mods. It's not "too high", it's correct. But yeah, kind of useless to the dataset since you're not including that kind of data. Don't worry, you're gonna have a ball of a time with ur new turbo, as I should next week too Hope you've got all the supporting mods so it can really do it's best - ~280rwkw. I'm looking at about 250-260rwkw with mine.

Why in the h3ll are you shifting into 3rd doing 40kph, or 4th doing 65kph! lol Shortshift much?

Jebus lol take her to a mechanic man!! Get him to fix everything at once lol Unless you've got time to burn and the inclination to chase after this stuff yourself!

Don't be! This is precisely why the graph doesn't tell you very much. Have you ever looked at those turbo application sheets? They are a lot more complicated than the ol' y = mx + b linear equation. I chose a GTRS over the 2835 because I PMed about 10 guys I saw that owned them and out of the discussion came my decision that a GTRS would have more power that I would actually use on the street at a sane boost level, and also on the track, whereas the 2835 would have more power up top (where I don't necessarily spend all my time). That, and I hate lag. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but using the arbitrary hypothetical of running either of these turbos at 12 PSI is pretty pointless because usually they are run both between 14-18PSI. To talk about numbers outside the 'common' range is... well silly. Trying to analyse turbo performance like you have is just likely to mislead you and possibly cause aggro when it isn't warranted. Who cares if a GTRS would make (some, not a lot) more power than a 2835 lower down? You should have more up top and if you don't, then there's a problem to address. RE the graph you just pasted. I think it's because you have to wait until more air is being moved by the engine before the larger turbine wheel of the 2835 starts spinning, whereas the GTRS has less to spin up (less lag). Noone will agree that a GTRS would make more power than a 2835 when both are run at or around 18PSI. Everyone knows the 2835 gives more up top (maybe 30rwkw or so? I dunno). You're analysis is too simple in some aspect or another. I would say maybe the data set, or some outriders are screwing up ur numbers...

playing (LP) (... lol harsh Alex )

Nice. Was in my brothers teg But soon back in a silver R33. No real defining marks... 18' Rohs are about it, not even side skirts! haha

Yes, I studied statistics in uni. It's more the point that the supporting mods are not even remotely close to constant between any of the data you used for the regression, rendering the regression pretty airy-fairy. Simply this: 'Remember, this formula is only applicable...' demonstrates as much because that statement covers a huuuge range of variables. Different ECUs (or fuel/boost controllers), intercoolers (and various setups), AFM used (and inherent limit), injectors and their limit, pump and it's limit, air intake etc etc, not to mention the well known variances on the dyno depending on how the car's loaded up, temperature, bonnet up/down, shoot-out mode or not..... Statistics is all about changing one variable and keeping the rest the same and measuring the correlation, but that's impossible with the (comparatively) small and inconsistent (the supporting mods etc) data set on that thread. But I can appreciate the analytical thinking put in, more power to ya.

lol. I did that with Excel to see what min/max/avg gains ppl got with it too. The problem is, a lot of results in the Turbo Upgrade thread have so many different variables (the supporting mods you gloss over), that you can't really draw much more conclusion than you would simply by reading the thread. I think ppl running a fuel or boost controller only (or even in combination if done poorly) are going to get measureably different results to those with full ECUs (and even within the ECUs there would be more variation, possibly less so). Also, it seems a LOT of ppl on that thread post up their results with a little note at the bottom saying 'injectors were maxing out, will go back to the tuner next week' or 'AFM needs upgrading next month'... so that also throws more unknowns into the mix. Having said that, the range between min and max in your results, look about the same as I got. I'll add another result in the upgrade thread in the next week or so but I won't have the little addendum at the end about something max out.

Take it back to SSS Automotive and get them to fix it.

(wheels on the) bus (go round...)

Saw the Stagea that gets around Turner this morning

Yeah, try the local grey importers first! Just don't expect massive speed in delivery or great communication with some of them. Perfectrun.com.au are also good. As far as 'stock' parts, I've found that if you do repeat business with a particular mechanic, they tend to do better prices for you. If you're doing your own work, I dunno.

Er section change?

Thanks, I wrote it. Please note, I only posted my info from what others have said and gathered fact as well as generally held 'common consensus' here on the forum. As far as the sharp bend, the benefit of having less piping (and therefore less volume of air to fill, read: response) probably makes up for it (or so I'm told). The air is moving plenty fast, I don't think that bend will make much/any difference to the flow. My mechanic also says the FMIC's using stock return pipes are best for the reasons I stated.

Repost lol oops

You can use pretty much any FMIC with a straight entry and exit on either side for that setup - you just need a front facing plenum too, possibly some other bits. I guess you'd have to get ur mechanic to fab it up, unless you get a full kit like a Plazmaman. It may or many not be worth doing depending on your engine and existing/planned mods - there are other threads specifically about this.

rabbit

Silver R33 a few streets over from me with its rear quarters covered in some blue stuff/smurf poo... wtf? Is it a slowly-advancing home repaint job?

John/Trojan's "AS NEW" looking R32 GTR. WOW. Mine on the hoist with new turbo and FMIC in, and clutch out! Can't wait.

There's a saying on some of the so-called 'hifi' sites I frequent. Friends don't let friends buy Bose. I don't know alternative suggestions for integrated systems, but if they're buying a stereo to listen to music, I wouldn't touch Bose with a 10 foot barge pole. But ppl who want integrated systems are usually primarily after subtlety in the home and ease of use, so sure: it'll do a reasonable job for a home theatre.

leech

White R34 with rims that had blue lips going into Civic from the Belco direction.

lol neither can I, for the innocuous lil Q I asked I think to really find out about the temps etc you'd have to do a lot of controlled tests, maybe something like Autospeed do (from time to time, even some of their tests are a bit sus).

Check this out FMIC options and info

NP Matty. The main reason I updated this thread is cos I linked somone else with high speed shaked to it, and wanted to add a little more info. Save others some time and pain! The most important part, as you said, is a knowledgeable mechanic/suspension guy. I think the rack itself was bent... The part with the 'peanuts', as Homer Simpson would say haha.. I'm not 100% on the details, I just know he said that noone, no matter how good they were, would have found it without pulling it out. He said he was getting an intermittent "clunk" when he played with the steering rack manually. It clunked about 1/3 of the time, so I was pretty sure it needed reconditioning. Was only very clear when he pulled it out. In fact, the reconditioning place were the ones to tell him it was bent, maybe he couldn't even see it himself, but had the right suspicions. So I don't have any pics. The main effect of the bent rack was very subtle *shivering* through the steering wheel at any speed, and intermittently when hitting 80-100kph or more, and sometimes when braking, the wheel would shake violently in my hands, like you get when you're braking heavily and the brake pads are completely shot. But it's all gone away now (can't imagine my relief after so long). With all the stuff I've had replaced, you should feel how it drives now lol go-kart