Adriano

Take a look at the bottom of the graph, it shows ambient temp as 22 degrees, and inlet temps as 40 degrees

I wouldnt go crazy on the comp housing, but on the exhaust i would do some hand reprofiling to better integrate the wastegate and then power porting, but it depends completely on the turbo.

A cold air intake will help

As dave has already said, it willl be fine for teh power levels you are after

34 GTR turbod are obviously newer. put a magnet on the exhaust wheel, steel it will stick, ceramic=not

I think you need a new brother hehe(puts hand up)

About $250-300 fitted, its cheap insurance, id put a 33 or n1 pump at the same time.

Im not too familiar with the emanage, but i think that there is still problems with r&r, looks like the ecu is trying to shut it down and pulling heaps of timing out and then giving it back, trent(uras) would know more about it.

Yes, im pretty sure it just increases the primary voltage feed to the coils to about 16v

Unless the ecu is tuned specifically to suit the injectors it wont work properly.

Depends, im assuming you are paying foe labour. It shouldnt cost more than $3-400 to get teh sump ripped off and the bigend bearing clearances checked, im betting one will be loose, and if you cant here the noise, new shells will probably fix it, if not dont put the bottom end back together, just chuck a motor in. Either way its not going to be a particularly cheap exercise.

The coil drivers are the igniters, if the ls-1 coils have them inbuilt they should work fine as long as the recharge time is about right which i imagine it would be.

All the early CAS's are compatable, try to borrow one to check

Stop driving it, rip the sump off and see what the problem is. I doubt the bearing has spun, engines only last minutes after they spin, its probably just shagged. You may be able to get away with replacing the big end bearings if the crank isnt damaged, thats what i did in my z32 300zx, it was a bit noisy whan i got it , fitted new bearings checked the clearances and drove it for a year before i sold it.

AN aftermarket FPR wont be of any benefit unless you raise the pressure, but its not necessary unless you plan on making more than 220rwkw. Even then you need management. The only exception in a rising rate reg, but even then you will need management first

Sorry, batch fire makes no difference, when duty cycle is 100%, its still 100% if you fire it twice. There is only ways to make more power after you reach the limit of the stock fuel system, raise the pressure, which pushes more fuel through, change the injectors for bigger ones, or get additional fuel elsewhere ie water methanol or auxillery injector. All the guys making significantly more power than the norm, i dare you to fit the fuel rail and injctors from a stock car and do a power run, the only way to be sure that you injectors are stock is to flow them agaainst known stockers.

SOunds like CAS, they tend to play up when hot. Check the AFM is plugged in properly, could be ramdom fuel pump failure, what computer is it?

Check for power at the injectors, check the sen/switch screen on the PFC, see if anything lghts up.

2Nd hand one should not be $200, you can get new aftermarket ones for about $150, triton make them. I think the twin spark needs the ignitor kept, but im not sure

Ive got some lovely Nismo coilovers for sale, as new if your interested

Or run multiple EGT or lambda sensors

And i dyno tuned cars full time for 18 months

Thanks heaps

Here are a few pics of the dummy assembly of my 26/30, have the follwing mods. Arias 40 thou forgies (ceramic coated) 8.8-9:1 comp 25thou squish eagle forged rods knife edged, cryogeniced and balanced crank N1 oil pump crank collar(proengines) 8l sump main studs head studs Cometic or HKS head gasket Ported head with 1mm o/s valves HKS valve springs Toda 10.2mm 272deg cams Adjustable camgears 720cc sards HKS FPR Nistune ecu(coming) Modified "Sub-zero" inlet manifold 90mm throttle body modified AFM HKS low mount T45S turbo kit(ceramic coated) 50mm wastegate(ceramic coated) probably WM injection MSD dis-4 M&W coils Home made Sump adapter Hopin to make close to 450rwkw PS does anyone know what valve clearances to run?

Hi, im building an rb26/30 with toda 10.2mm 272deg cams, does anyone have any advice as to what valve clearance to run?