Adriano

I posted one to canada, cost $650 AUD in shipping, including the plastic pallet. The charges were based on weight alone. I can organise some for you if you are interested

No, but it does support z32 which has VCT

They are just a remapped ecu, so there is no "tuning" you can do to it so to speak, short of remapping it, whereby you are starting from scratch. I had an IMPUL in my Z32 300zx. We took the code from the IMPUL ecu, and downloaded a stock map, compared the two, and made one that was far better than both

Ive got a cut NEO inlet manifold. I can take some photos of it and post ehm up if you like showing the difference in port height. I also recall the port spacing will be wrong, as the runners dont come straight out of the head, some turn in, others out. Nothing that cant be fixed with a tig though. PS disco, what state do you live in?

Need to add the VCT wiring to the rb20/26 loom, and a dropping resistor, depending on the injectors. Other than that you just need to swap a few pins around on the ecu. I have a pdf of the changes somewhere, ill have a look

1-Pretty sure there will be minimal water passage dramas, you may need to tap and grubscrew the oil feed to the VCT. Dont forget to fit oil restrictors. 2-Simple, use rb25 head bolts, the head is located by the dowels 3-The rb26 also uses a water/oil heat exchanger. I would say both the 25 and 26 IAC would be pulse width modulated, so there shouldn't be too many dramas there. 4-Two options here, aftermarket single turbo rb26 manifold, or an adapter plate. I would avoid modding the head. Cheap rb26 staino manifold would be my choice, just brace it and the exhaust. Or a good aftermarket one-your choice 5-TPS isnt too far from the original, IAC will need lengthening, CAS, water temp and injectors are in the same spot. May wish to add wiring for the Air temp sensor. Will need to change injector plugs, and add a resister pack if you want to use the rb26 injectors. 6-You may have to fit rb25 water sensor, as i said not 100% sure about IAC though 7-As said above 8-Water plumbing for the turbo will be very similar betweent the two, a few hoses to nut out, but nothing too complex

Should all be fine, just need to shim the valve clearances to suit the cams, and use a mitsubishi style CAS

You can never get even a PFC l-jetro to run fine without a BOV, as the fluttering load cells are the same cells that you see at cruise, so you can only tune it to suit one of the conditions... runs rich on gearchanges

Z32 vg30 ecu is a great chioce. Retains VCT, and with a nistune board, allows realtime tuning

Unfortunately disco, this isnt really an option without significant welding/reprofiling of the intake port. If you look at the manifold, by the time you have to cut it back behind the injectors, the two middle runners are about 15mm lower than the other 4.

Im pretty sure URAS posted up some photos in a similar thread a few months ago

No

Not trying to knock what you are doing, but just remember that it is unlikely you will make more than 160rwkw, which is easily achievable with any of the turbo ortions. I would take this into account when building it, and allow for the fact that you may want to turbo it in the future.

Pod filter, and/or metal intake pipe

Oh dear, thats not how to unplug the AFM. In the second photo, you have the plug IN your hand. You will need to take the cover off the AFM and resolder the connections.

Not meaning to sound rude, but have you compared your car to a gtr. If you are comcerned about some fairly minor mods to the strut tower, then how do you plan to run the driveshafts through the chassis rails where the gtr is vastly different, or the transfer case, which will require a gtr floorpan/section to be structurally welded in? Im not trying to knock your ideas, but this has been done before, why not just copy what is already a workable solution, there are even detailed photos of the front suspension and underbody on this forum

I would make sure you get one with a genuine garrett ex housing. I would run a .63. You will need a custom dump pipe, and a spacer between the exhaust manifold and the turbo.

I would check that there is power at the plug, and the wires havn't came out of the back of the plug.

Its exactly what i would have done, although i would have used a die grinder. As long as the manifold is in a vice, it would be easy to avoid damaging the gasket mating surface

Did you check the timing with a timing light?

I would personally go GT3071r IW(internal wastegate), and use a stock rb25 manifold. The whole hot side will look fairly stock, and be reliable. You should be able to see about 270rwkw @ 16psi without overstressing things. You will need RB26 injectors, gtr fuel pump, and some engine management.

The gtr upper wishbone/lonk bolts to the body

Agreed, or a .63 gt3071/76. I would only fit a plenum if your shooting for above 300rwkw, in which case you dont really need the additional top end power for an r32 gtst street car, as it will be wheelspinning well before the plenum will start to come into effect.

Do you just want to rev it to that, or make efficient power at 8000? If so you are looking at making about 8-900hp, with the associated costs.

With side feed injectors, if the orings are missing/torn. the engine floods