Adriano

Your car s running lean because there is something wrong with it. Most likely culprit is the fuel pump. A genuine walbro will be up to the task as long as you continue to run the stock turbo.

Its normal, depends if the coolant is hot enough to tighten the clutch. It tends to work in cycles, although more often after idling.

Yes, it is true

Have you figured out what caused the problem? Could be the cams?

Unfortunately you can now throw most of that out, if the cams and springs are any good, they will fit srtaight into a 25 head, just disable the vct. A top notch port job shount be more than 1k

Shouldnt make a difference, the stinger handles either. I would check that the ecu is configured correctly,

The rods will definately get a lot hotter than the oil, the oil cools them. they are also a lot longer than a piston is wide, i would expect to allow .25mm for thermal expansion, which effects squish and comp ratio. I would get a forged piston and measure how much "barrel" shape it has. How do you plan on forging the blank?(ps you can buy forged blanks)

An rb20 block is worth about $5, i would just fit an rb25. Your cams will fit straight in. The cost to repair the head would be more than the cost of porting another. What are the $5k of mods?

Im using the rb26 version, which is basically the same only larger. Mine is ceranic coated. the benefits over a stainless tubular one is improved heat(energy) retention, far more resilient to cracking. They usually only crack inside the meerger, which almost all cast manifolds do, and doesn't cause leaking. Having said that, most of the stainless ones cracking IMO is caused by poor installations where there isnt enough bracing, and the manifold is taking the weight of the turbo and exhaust, which wants to flap around.

Just bear in mind that you have to take into account the difference in thermal expansion between the conrod and the block when setting op your piston heights. Thats the main reason alloy rods aren't particularly popular.

Or most sheetmetal fabricators have a louvre press

Depending on what rpm you are changing gears at, it could be falling below the boost threashold, which would explain slow boost build. Also running an atmo bov will still effect the running, as it still has an AFM, which will result in super rich a/f ratios, whilst maintaining fairly high ignition values. Neither of these are good for maintaining turbo shaft speed. A tuning trick which works surprisingly well, is to tune the cells where it hits on gearchange to run 5 deg BTDC running 12:1 AFR, this give a poor mans anti lag. Just make sure it isnt the same cell where you cruise on the freeway.

From what i have read on here of your setup, there are two factors playing here. IMO this mod is only preventing your ecu from dropping into the low octane(knock) map. R&R is basically cells in the mapping that do exactly that, and when you increase the airflow(at relatively low/mid rpm's it hits these cells. Coincidently these cells are where the knock detect is enabled, where it isnt at the higher rpm's. IMO there is another function in the ecu which detects excessive AFM voltage rise rate, and also exhibits similar traits to R&R, which is what results in the sawtooth power graph you see when you turn the boost up on a stock ecu. Have you tried having the knock sensors on a switch, so they can be off when its warming up, and then turn them on once its warm. I believe it wouldn't change your power output, as its your other tricks that are giving oyu the power. As SK said this is merely fooling the ecu into believing there is no knock, so if there is no knock, in theory there should be the same outcome.

Sorry, would have to disagree with most of that. Firstly it is basically rare for a dyno shop to use an EGT to tune. Secondly an rb30 with a twin cam head makes no difference to the tuning, and no dyno operator will guarantee that is the most safe power, unless they built the motor. All the other bits can be just as easily monitered using the datalogit(actually thats what the dyno tuners use to moniter the sensors). I would get accustomed with the tuning gear, and do a street tune, and then hire a dyno for the full throttle stuff when its run in.

5min, are you sure? that would repuire an average speed of 250km/h

R32 rb25de head/inlet manifold, use your exhaust manifold/turbo, rb20 ecu and wiring, remap when you want more power, Although the turbo will be a major restriction

You hear wrong. I personally wouldn't be risking a $4000 motor with a T70

Shouldn't cost much to fix, the control arms are really soft, so they bend easily, saves doing more damage to the subframe. Just pull the wheel off and see what looks bent, should be fairly obvious

Do a search, there was a thread about this a few weeks ago

They definately dont all have the flat area above the waterpump, and the series 1(at least some of them)dont have the oil feed hole drilled from the oil filter boss to the other side of the block.

I personally cant believe the number of stupid comments inn this thread. Gas research was fine in the 90's as that was all that was available, and it was being fitted to carby cars. Its like saying you could make more power on a gts-t by running a blow through holley,and a dissy, might be true, but the loss of drivability would easily offset the power. LPG injection has come a long way in the past few years, and the price has dropped significantly. There are a few good systems coming out now, which mean you can have the best of both worlds. Maybe not suited to 800hp gtr's, but 400hp gtst's and stagea's are now becoming a practical cheap means of a daily driver.

Its either a wiring problem, or a faulty AFM

Two other words"adapter plates"

25 non neo and 26 are basically the same(ie they vary about the same amount)