b2barker

Can someone please run ECR33-000443 for the bandwidth challenged?

Mine was playing up, and it turned out to be the solid brush not contacting properly with the rotor. I bent it a little with long nose pliers and it's a goer. Also if they play up and you want to wind it up you can take the magnetic cover off the motor without removing the whole assembly (through the speaker well), as it has only two scews. You can then wind it up by turning the rotor manually.

35 and 1 day.

The reason you make more boost is because a stockie doesn't have a boost controller, just a wastegate. An exhaust with less backpressure means higher speed exhaust gases, and hence more boost.

As an engineer who sets up various control loops in industry I will have crack. A controller typically has three values of interest: Setpoint (SP) - The amount of boost you want Control Value (CV) - The output to the variable bleed valve, or pulsing of on/off valve or pushing/pulling the wastegate itself. Process Value (PV) - The amount of boost you are getting. To manually set one up you would typically make a step change to the CV (eg. valve from 0% to 50% open) and measure the response to the PV (how long it takes to reach the final boost value, and rate of change). With these measurements you set controller such that it gets the value you want as soon as possible, with little over shoot, and then hold where you want it. A "learning" controller does this for you. While learning it changes whatever it varies to effect boost level and measures what effect it has on boost with your setup (ie. your turbo, your exhaust, ambient temp etc.). It's not hype it's necessity. If it doesn't learn you would either have slow spool up or overshoot.

try 270kw

Yep but stepping down to 0-4V is simply done with two resistors. The same place have another similar product (Labjack ) for just over $200, with similar IO, but 0-10V, USB connected and terminals fitted. The sample rate is slower though As far as the Hz/V convertor, I have used many of these in industry (mining) for speeds of conveyors and the like. I am not so much after accuracy as repeatability. Thanks for that link, all info is good info. *goes looking for tacho voltage*

Let us know how you go with the serial port buisiness. DAMQIK GTS-T, do you know where MAP connects to the ECU? Is it shown on here this schematic? (ignore the cuts Just to clarify, the data acquisition link I posted is just a cheap analog to digital convertor (the cheapest 12bit I have seen). Data loggers for cars aren't new but they are generally expensive and stand alone (ie they record data, and you down to PC later) or else a feature of an after market ECU. This one is is cheap, but has some limitations (like 0-4V instead of 0-5V) and the need to have your laptop connected. I am getting one to give it run, and from the RB25 schematic, it won't hard to pick up TPS, AFM, Eng temp and O2 from existing sensors. As pointed these are usless without RPM and or Tacho. RPM and Tacho probably need frequency to voltage converter electronics which are quite cheap. I was going to buy a MAP but DAMQIK GTS-T might be onto something. You could also add sensors like charge air temp or whatever.

Displaying boost with a series of LEDs seems like a waist of time to me. As you need to get a MAP, why not hook it straight of the LCD loop powered digital display? I don't think the stock gauge uses a MAP, I thinks in air powered? Isn't it? If you want to embark on some automotive/electronic stuff I recomend Autospeed , it's well worth the money. Search there on displays. For what it's worth maybe you would be better off making a datalogger. If you have a laptop, you could hook this data acquisition unit up. Eight 0-4V 12-bit inputs logged to laptop. Log speed, rpm, boost, temps, TPS ... The ECU port won't give you boost, as there is no boost signal into the ECU.

Like some others said there doesn't seem to be much benefit for street use. This is because if you are only on boost for short periods the IC works more like a heat sink than a radiator. It absorbs heat from the inside while you boost, and if you back off it put the heat back in the off boost air. It spreads the heat out if you like. Only if you boost for extended periods (track or high speed) does the cooler warm up enough to dissipate to air, where spraying would help.

1) '75 Golf LS 2) '84 Prelude grey import 3) '93 Calais 4) '79 Daimler Van Den Plas (SIII Jag 4.2L) 5) '97 Civic VTiR 6) '93 R33 GTST

And the bigger diameter wheels have their weight distributed further from the centre so you loose torque. (torque=force x distance ) Drag cars have small wheels for a reason.

For the Mame cabinet see JAW's webpage . You have to own the orginals of course

The knock sensor is the one that retards the timing. You are braver than me if you want to fool that one. Address the cause (ie. charge air temp, boost, compression). Trying to fool the boost limit is another one to avoid. It doesn't take out timing it cuts fuel. The 220rwkw is the limit for a number of things, like AFM range, turbo and injector flow. It's not the SAFC that's the limitting factor

If you have some electrical knowledge you can do it simply/cheaply/temporarily by amplifying your AFM signal across the board. ECU thinks there is higher load and adds more fuel. This AutoSpeed article how to do it with two potentiometers, but you may need to be a member to see the whole article. It doesn't address the root cause of the problem, and if it was my GTR I would park it until the PFC arrived.

No. If you pull the plug on the solenoid so it never opens it would be the same as removing it.

Sound more like fuel cut from overboost. You are probably not running the same boost after fitting a dump pipe. ie. Less back pressure=higher exhaust speed=more boost. The solution is to lower boost until it doesn't happen, OR get a fuel cut defender combined with refueller (AFC or piggy back) to make sure you are not leaning out up top. Maybe the TSI which does both.

I could be wrong here but: 1) The ECU controls injector pulse widths and has no knowledge of how much fuel is flowing. 2) A "bigger" pump may just be capable of more flow, with the same pressure. ie. maintaining the same pressure under increased duty cycle. 3) If you have a larger pressure fuel pump you should be regulating the pressure because of 1) If I am wrong please tell me, it's the only way I'll learn

The ECU switches the 0V side on terminal 25 on the ECU. I wouldn't have it on all the time, partly because it may burn out in hot weather, but mainly because it will bleed all the time leading to longer spoolup and possibly too rich an idle. It would be better to manually switch, or switch on boost (cheap ones from Autospeed), or lower RPM or load (AFM) or TPS. There is also a "Thottle Valve Switch" shown between 30 and 57 (ECU terminals) on the schematic I have. I am not sure what this does but it may be usable via a diode and relay to control the solnd. I read on Autospeed that Audi's with a similar solnd valve responded well to a slight drilling of the bleed hole to bleed off a bit more.

It shouldn't spike much because of the it starts to open before you get to the boost you want.

I thought the were about $700. Anyways it is more functionally comparable with an e-Manage with injector harness, or full ECU replacement.

Anyone seen Unigroup's TSI in action? Looks very good for the price. Why buy a SAFC when you have have all those features for around the same price?

Got on the freeway at Hay St just as it happen, ie. all the cars up to 200m ahead slammed on the skids just as I got there. The front tyre was cleared from the right lane just as I went past. It was a nice looking car, minutes earlier. It has a personalised black plate "AF 888" if anyone knows him. He seemed unhurt. I am not sure which came first, the wheel coming off or the front right corner ploughing into the concrete barrier.

Me thinks it is closer to being a fixed loss (xkW) than a percentage.

Wastegate - Controls howmuch exhaust gas goes through the turbo, and howmuch goes straight out, to control boost delivered by the turbo. BOV - yep, back into the intake on stock 'lines and into the air for woosh sounds. Bleed valve- No, it is a cheap addition that bleeds of some pressure on the line to the wastegate so it doesn't open so much, so more exhuast goes thru the turbo and you get more boost. Electronic Boost Control (EBC) is a more expensive way of controlling the wastegate and hence boost.