Jump to content
SAU Community

b2barker

Members
  • Posts

    109
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by b2barker

  1. Having owned a Jag, I found that quite ironic. When I had it, I was always the rescued.
  2. If you where going to put one on the intlet would you disable the variable cam timing? I am just thinking if you advance with a cam gear you would get a summed advance with the variable timing, and it would negate the retard from the variable timing. I have only heard of exhaust cam gears on R33s. Anxiously awaiting your results if you give it a go. Edit: Should have read the cam post then I would know GT N1K is trying it tomorrow
  3. OK I think I have nailed it. I think the answer to your original question is that your dyno is showing 2.33 times the flywheel torque after losses(I will explain what I mean by that later). I don't know why it's 2.33 but I will explain how I got there. Firstly the I have used ratios from here which I think are correct. My car redlines at about 100km/h in second so I know the first one I had was wrong. So using this your max power at 129km/h is 6157 engine RPM, which seems fair. At this speed your wheels are doing 1084 RPM. Now given that kw=NmxRPM/9551, that means with 177kW the torque at the wheels is 1559.7Nm at the wheels. Thats impresive. So I think what the dyno operators do when they set it to display torque at the wheels is reflect this back to the flywheel. eg. Torque=Nm@wheels/(Gear Ratio X Final Ratio). That would give you 274.56Nm at your peak power (you get the same figure if you put 177 and 6157 into the Nm=kwx9551/RPM formula where RPM is engine RPM). This again seems fair because the torque at peak power at the fly with stock 184kw@6400RPM is 274.59Nm. So you are making about the same torque at the wheels as a stocker at the fly, but slightly less power at the wheels than stock fly power due to the fact your peak is at slightly less RPM. Here is the spreadsheet with the right gearing. You can put in you tyre stuff, different speeds and power to find torque.
  4. kW = (Nm x rpm) / 9551 Nm = (kW x 9551) / rpm
  5. I went for a look and gtrken vs the Eames R33 GTR was the easily most entertaining to watch. Nice power slides Ken. A mate of mine mine video-ed your second run, do you want me to post a link when he gets it on his web site? Those Westfields where damn fast around the track.
  6. I think the correct term would be porcine
  7. I recently saw a Lancer on Canning hwy with a "Drifter On Board" sign swinging in the back window. If he is drifting the Lancer he must spend a lot of time in reverse
  8. The 7 is 700mm of mercury. This is equivilent of 13.54psi or 0.933bar. So just over the halfway point is about 7psi, and normal for stock boost over 4800rpm. Probably below half <4800 for 5 psi.
  9. Does anyone have a technical description of how this 2 stage boost solenoid actually works? If the 2 stages are say 5 and 7 psi, does the wastegate act at 5psi, and at high rpm the solenoid bleeds off boost to allow up to 7psi boost but 5 to wastegate? If it worked like that then then removing the solenoid would give you 5psi throughout the range not 7psi. What does it do to control boost?
  10. Power=Torque*RPM*a constant If you make good torque at high RPM you make good power, and can take better advantage of gearing. My last car was a Civic VTiR, which had bugger all torque, but peak torque was over 6000RPM, leading to peak power of 118kw at 7200rpm. I am driving a 3L diesel lowlux hire car at the moment, which has heaps of low torque but this drops off well below the 4500 redline:uh-huh: . It can accel up a steep hill in fourth at 1700 rpm, but would do a 0-100 in 15 seconds. Power is all about where your torque is in the RPM range. As an aside dynos don't measure power they measure torque and calculate power from this and tyre rpm or tacho rpm.
  11. Ah, that was the one from C-Red. I seriously considered buying that, and then cheaped out and got a R33 GTST. *much admiration*
  12. Got some more info on this rev210? I always though MAP was better than AFM because it didn't restrict air flow (and you can BOV to atmo if you are into that sort of thing).
  13. There is a supercharger kit, but I don't think it adds much anyway. Compression ratio is too high for big boost. I have never heard anyone question the reliability of any Honda. What you on about?
  14. I can recommend Jenkins Auto Elec in Norma Rd Myaree. Luke and Matt know their stuff (no I don't work there but I went to school with Luke). Sounds like the battery is a dud if it goes flat in a day, or else something is draining it. Check the water. If OK try the RAC battery callout, as they will test it free and a replacement will be $60 to $80 depending on capacity. If you know someone with a multimeter check amps between battery and disconnected lead. Should be close to bugger all, enough for radio memory hold and immobiliser. Something like a 5watt globe would draw .4A which would drain a battery in a day.
  15. If you want a seperator, just feed the line between the valve cover and the intake through a box stuffed with coarse steel wool. See Autospeed's first and second write ups on this.
  16. None but i am looking into to it for my R33.
  17. MRT sell the Aquamist unit, although I don't know how much. Good info in Aquamist's FAQ and also here
  18. I got my R33 GTST insured with RAC just 2 months ago for $809 p/a. Mind you I am an old bastid with 60% no claim. Try one of these : Harringtons :9388 1299 QMDN 1800 644 383 Shannons (02) 9958 7666 www.shannons.com.au Torque Underwriting 1300 369 769 ALL-STATE insurance (07) 3205 3311 Suncorp Metway 13 11 55 www.suncorpmetway.com.au Just Cars 13 13 26 Unique Car Insurance (03) 9898 9400 I think Torque gave me a quote in the same range as RAC.
  19. Was it T-Sport's Launch Control and Flat shift. I am getting one of them ASAP.
  20. The faq has both methods. The diag port method will save you from having to set your radio stations again.
  21. I have similar deal, as I am a contractor with my own Pty Ltd. My company owns the car and I have to pay FBT on it, but if your modifying (oops I meant repairing) you come out in front. Other bonus in WA is multi-nova infringements get sent to company, and you are asked politely to inform them who the driver was. There is no law obligating the company to tell them, so you just ignore it and they go away. I have had two of these I ignored over 2 years back, so no fine/demerits/record that may effect insurance.
  22. Sure are, maybe 15-20mm under. She's low alright. Thanks for the info gentlemen. I don't really need it to be legal height, just not scaping the sh1t out it height. What you have told me will help me to choose a height that is closer to legal and doesn't scrape.
  23. When I bought my R33 GTST a few months back the Apexi adjustable coilovers had been lowered to the ground. It scrapes on dips when driving, scrapes the cat going into my driveway and the front wheels scrape when turning into carparks. I want to lift it a sensible height, maybe even minimum legal height :eek: . How is this measured (LCA to ground, diff to ground etc)? Is their an indication on the adjustable bit itself that show how far from stock it is? Any suggestions on a good height, dampner settings?
  24. Process Control Engineer (aka code monkey)
  25. R33 Brain Transplant
×
×
  • Create New...