dabigbolf

hope this works

hope this works

it doesn't have coil overs. i am trying to upload pics here.... the interior i am tidying up, but not a big drama to get done. The wiring is all done, just a mtter of bolting computer in place. getting the speedo and temp gauge to work, is the real last thing.

pic taken just then....

the work is all done. only thing left is getting an engineers certificate.

good question.... I cant put a price on it, as it owes me too much both money and countless hours spent. I have had an offer of 14 but thats a little too low. theres a few more bits and pieces that i forgot to mention. Suspension is some aftermarket stuff. not too sure on name though, has a boost gauge, and battery has been moved to boot. if serious send us a pm, and more than willing to discuss price. but i cant really name a price... too hard. i will not be offended by any offers...

http://board.performanceforums.com/forums/...readid=67157654 link to some old pics, more has been done since..

hey, unfortunately i am going to have to sell my car. After 14 months of getting it on the road and completed, some stupid cop has just destroyed all that work....... Getting a fine, for power to weight, use of a modified vehicle.... I am not going to be able to drive the car for 2 years so i guess its better off going to someone else. The specs are. - yellow S13 nissan silvia 85,000 k's - sunroof - rb25det motor with r33 turbo gearbox 70,000 k's. - new daiken 5 puk brass button clutch - custom 1 piece tailshaft - custom gearbox mount and engine mounts - modified sump so doesn't hit sway bar. - new bosch 040 fuel pump - new hks hipower exhaust, 3 inch cat, 3 inch front pipe - hks style front mount intercooler, with 3 inch alloy piping, tig welded.... - custom throttle body moved to front of plenum - polished plenum and cam covers. - new timing belt, new waterpump, new cam cover gaskets, new oil cooler gaskets.... - new pod air filter with stainless steal flange - Japanese dish style 16 inch rims, fat 225 advan semi slick tyres on the back. - Limited slip LSD is very tight. - flat i would not even have driven the car for more than two tanks worth of petrol. So every bolt on is like new. I will also throw in a painted gtr rear wing and a set of r33 front rotors for a brake upgrade. Thers probly more stuff i have forgotten about the car, so any serious people interested let me know. I am getting the defect off for the sale of the car, but it will not come with engineers certificated. Lot have time and effort has gone into this conversion, and i am pretty pissed off. cheers i do have lots of pictures through the conversion, but i'll try and get some of it all completed. p.s car owes me over 25 grand. serious offers only thanks in sth east suburbs of melb.

hey, i sorted it out, it was the plugs.. but still i reckon it can be better. i'll give you a buzz today. organise a time to come down. cheers.

i have brand new plugs in. NGK iridiums'.... i will get them set to .8 i haven't changed the gaps on them though. so will give that a try.

for anyone who has been bothered to read my long boring post.... i have done a search and have come across guys with the problems. Most people are talking about air flow metres, fuel cut, boost cut, needing an safc, or even a aftermarket ecu.... i am a bit confused about it all now. one more thing, i also have the hose from actuator going up to the plenum. I dont have it plumbed into the cooler piping like from factory..

hey, i havestill got it set on stock boost, and its now backfiringand around 4500 rpm. Its not really loud but its enough to make the car feel like its surging. I have a bosch 040 fuel pump, i run it on mobile fuel. Premium stuff. I also got the oil to air seperator installed. Now for this, the hose which normally runs from the cam cover into theinduction hose, has been blocked off. Now when starting the car up, it goes to about 700 rpm then drops down to where its about to stall then back up to about 500 rpm. And it sounds like it is idling really low. When oil to air seperators are used do people still keep the air circulating into the rubber induction hose? (its goes in just before the turbo) And secondly i am going to install the plumb back Bov back on. For this to work it has to be as close to the throttle body as possible. In my case that is going to mean it will be on the otherside of the engine bay to where its going to have to be plumbed into. Cause i have the front facing plenum. So do i have to run a really really long hose into the rubber induction pipe inbetween the air flow metre and turbo? or can i plumb it in somewhere else. At the moment the rubber hose that used to go onto the crossover pipe, is being sent to the rubber induction pipe. This hose comes from the back of the plenum.... should this hose that i have sent to the induction pipe be going into the cooler piping, before the throttle body? and then run the plumb back bov to the induction hose instead? its a little confusing, so many hoses can effect how the car revs, idles, etc. This could be the cause of the backfiring aswell. if someone could take the time to point me in the right direction it would be good. E.g someone with a front facing plenum, and a plumb back bov? thanks p.s for an rb25

it is a very close fit.

my mistake around $1700 + install/tune. which was roughly $700. Is it true that the autronic and the nissan coils, can be a bit of a hassel? It may be an involved ecu, but that can be a good thing, giving more options, functions, and settings to control. In the right hands i think it could work well. just need to know how compatable they are to a rb25det motor...

heres my one. pretty solid.

well not being a sticky nose or anything.... But driving past someones house, and seeing a yellow r34 gtr is something that a bit different.... lives around the corner from me. Wonder if he would notice if i just swapped cars during the night. I wouldn't mind, honestly....

syndey kid, how hard are autronics to install and tune. The self learning package that is? They are roughly the same price as a new power fc. And you chuck away the airflow metre, which is always a good thing! Save up to $300 for the z32 one that you dont need. have you had any experience with the autronic self learning packages on the rb25dets. Good results? Have had a rough price of around $2500 installed and tuned. cheers

are the rods standard? as i do know the rb30 non turbo and turbo ones are the same....

does this mean that the so called Hypo GTr's that everyone is importing will no longer be happening, or willl the Vic roads have a little bit of time before they are torn to shreads....

I am glad to say i need one tooo... hehe probly get liek 100hp at the wheels hehe,

well i am going to see the fabrication magician tommorow. will have a chat to him about wacking it back on... the continuos fluttering through the cooler piping, and from the turbine wheel chopping up the air is getting pretty annoying... Especially when your not actually getting pulled back in your seat. catcha. p.s theres a guy in ringwood that we might be able to check the speedo singals off. Picking up a power steering line fitting next weekend hopefully.

yes, dont listen to importers who tell you that the r33 turbo manual box doesn't fit..... and that you have to go the auto.... what i would have done to know that before hand.... did someone say dont go to type m imports in bennet street.... caugh caugh..... jibberish come take my parts.... hehe i am almost over it.

u dont have to change your diff. Most people dont even bother with the back brake change over. I have still got the stock 1.8 litre brakes on mine. and they still work. thats front and back. The car isn't being used as a track car or anything, and i know not to push the car to hard because of it. E.g i haven't hit any high speeds, as the brakes then become vital. best tip i can give you, is get everything possibly done before the motor and gearbox goes in. You can do some of the wiring, such as cutting out uneeded stuff, and preparing the wiring for the speedo, reverse lights etc. other than that theres no real order. But do all your waterpump, timing belt, heater hoises, belts, and small fidly bit whilst the motor is out. Its a prick to do otherwise. also make sure you dont lose your keys..... i did... hehe $12000 would get you a very quick rb25 s13. I'd say around 8 or 9 will get you some mild mods along the way. you can keep your abs braking.... but if you intend on going for a big brake master cylinder you will need an ABS unit. I am using the r33 booster and brake master, and that works ok. no abs..... anyways do it right the first time and you'll be right, do it half arsed and it cost you double.... laters

well i am getting it tuned within the next couple of weeks i have decied. so i am contemplating just pikcing up a second hand safc as the amount of black shit covering the car is definatley caused by it running to rich..... I put spacers between the crank anlge sensor (as i dont have a cover on.... bonnet reasons), and it seems to have helped, this and the fittment of constant thermo fans also. I am flushing the radiator and the engine oil out now aswell, so if all goes to plan hopefully no probs from here on in. Also have found that there has been some sprayed coolant at the back of the motor, whether this is the heater hoses or the head i dont know..... too hard to tell. but ehater hoses are all clamped really tight... i let you know my dyno result also... hoping for anything above 160 rwkw....

not the greatest to here people getting stuffed around. i got my plenum done. Just refaced, and as far as i know it hasn't missed a bit. For 250 bucks and the sake of closing the bonnet, was very worth while. I guess thats a difference, some companies dont really pride themselves on what they produce. Its all about the $$$ factors. If they had taken that little extra time to make your plenum, but had got it spot on, i am sure you'd be over the moon.... best of luck.