dabigbolf

I am very close to being convinced to start hunting down these parts to build a turbo the same. A gt30 was the plan, but summing up the costs involved, i could have a turbo poducing good power and change left over, to put towards a power fc, and a decent set of injectors. I have heard that i can just use my r33 turbo, and fit the vg30 exhaust housing to it. Then i could do the machining, and fit the t04 front wheel. Or do i need a complete vg30 to start with. Or would a complete turbo assembly be what you have stated- "VG30 exhaust housing $50, and the machining and balancing will cost about $100, TO4 Vtrim Compressor wheel $250...so about $400 all up. " And that would include internal wastegate but i would use the oil return lines off my r33 one. whats the best way to go about getting a turbo such as this one made up. E.g dont want to buy a complete vg30 turbo if i am gonna get rid of half of it. cheers.

yeah obiviously.... got that out of the car already.... hehe. sorry

well, it does go. theres no leaky bov... as i am not running one... I have no tacho on it, so its hard to estimate revs. But say boost hits at 2800 rpm. I get around 4 psi up to around 4700 rpm. the boost stays there. Then from 4700 rpm it boost to 7 or 8 psi. That would be revving it to say 5500 rpm or so. But you can notice that the boost gauge needle sits on 4 psi for a long time. More than what i have seen in other peoples r33's. I rechecked the boost line gauge, and that seems fine. Only problem i am seeing is that the boost is staying at 4 psi for a fair bit. Theres no fuel pump issues, as the car has a bosch 040. The timing may be a problem. But i am pretty postive that we have set the timing back.... What is the normal state for the timing to be set at, and how can i tell when setting it. I have the crank angle sensor where the screws are pretty close to being retarded timing. i do have a simple boost bleed valve, that i could install, but would like to get it running righyt first. What sort of boost should i be getting and at what rev range. e.g psi@? revs... cheers

i bleed the clutch lines again. and the brass button feels a lot better.... But then the clutch pedal welds snapped. So the metal casing which bolts up to the car makes the pedal stick behind the brake pedal. was lucky i was only 2 minutes from home when it happened. i am gonna do the gearbox oil again...

i gotta do the clutch again. Bleed it up. and then take it to a dyno. I am really unsure of which guys to go for. BMT seem to have a good reputation. what sort of price would i be looking at.....

i am getting the engine cutting out on me when i am driving.... It does seem that that 4 psi could be right. As it sort of spools up, but doesn't really throw you back in the seat at all.... Theres just a lot of sounds....... spool up noises, which probly exagerates the power its putting down. i am using the 040 bosch fuel pump, which seems to be doing fine... dyno might be the best option.

hey, car is now going. Changing gears is some what tempromental. I change gears, and get crunching. Could this be due to gearbox not having right oil in it. i have used some castrol 75 W 90 W gearbox oil. am a bit worried it could be stuffed, with a synchrose, but the gearstick does flow into each gear pretty easily. any thoughts. or recommendations....

hey, hooked up the boost gauge. And i am only getting 4 psi as a reading. What could this be. Its a series 1 motor. all hoses seem to be connected.

yes using the standard turbo.... its only getting 4psi though.... so dont know what the go is there. but it was enough to make me spin out in the wet getting onto wellington road out the front of monash UNI. freakd me out a bit....

yeah i'd say around 45 kg's..... once i get it running, more mods will come slowly... Want to see what it runs down at calder in its current state. Get the car looking like a car again, is probly the first on the next to do list....

i'll have to find out how to do it. I am getting the throttle cable bracket done, alloy over flow bottle, that brake boost one way line thing, and get some other stuff sorted. boost gauge.... If i can figure out how to get the indicators working... I'll come up to your place bozz. Hopefully get the tacho, alarm, and thermos going. the old lady doesn't let me drive it.... reckons it is unsafe.... the 040 pump stopped the cutting out aswell...

so after all you work done to the turbo. what was the total sum for the work done... is this a $1000 upgrade, with all machining extra done... from sratch with a stock turbo..

if you were to want a rb26 just get a gtr.... Putting it in a silvia, you lose a lot that the gtr offers. Better brakes, suspension, refined interior. And basically the hole package. I took mine for a spin last night..... On 7 psi, stock turbo, with advan semi comps on the back, it has no trouble lighting up the wheels. I will be more than content with the power for a long time.... It makes all the right sounds, and hits all the right notes, i just have to put the 040 pump in, and get my throttle cable bracket made up.... Oh, and remember to tighten your heater hose clamps, or else steam starts to come through your bonnet.... Was only on the first 2 minute trip..... meggala finally got it going!!!

yeah am thinking brakes. But the noise is amplyfied as i dont have the gearbox shroud on at the moment. My throttle cable bracket was a work of art. Very temporary. taped the throttle cable to the cam hose. worked just to get it moveable. bozz is coming tommorow so should have everything sorted electrical wise now. second opinion on noise is needed i reckon...

ok, Took the car up the court and back tonight.... Car is runnign healthy. But get out and am in first gear. Take it easy. The i slowly accelerate, and from about 3 k's reall slow, i hear a metal on metal noise. I get to about 12 to 15 k's and its loud..... So i stop, put clutch in... Noise stil there. brake, and noise is gone. I just got a sugguestion of it being the Brake pads? could that be it.. Or could it be yoke not being creased. There 3 litres of gearbox oil in there. Clutch is brand new, and and flywheel too. It doesn't make that sound cause its beding in does it. i actually am thinking pads now, cause if i put clutch in, the sounds still there. WHich means, tailshaft isn't spinning... But that would still mean flywheel is spinning. But it doesn't happen when i just rev the car, when its standing still. So that would leave brakes, and the actual thrust bearing?? any sugguestions. Any answer except that the gearbox is stuffed, cause that would mean the end of the car..... cheers

sounds like its a bit crazy..... theres another guyup in queensland which had the td06 on his rb25 and it ran an 11.2. he has now swapped for two hks2530's.... must be something in the water up there, that makes you alll go crazy... specs are very impressive.

have everything ready.... just waiting for bozz to come to do fuel pump relay, and tidy up the wiring.... and hook up rest of stuff.... its killing me........... Car starts and everything, but cant drive it.... flat battery was why the car hesitated after running it for a few seconds.... dont think i can take another week of waiting. 15 months now... just getting stupid...

hey, i have seen recent discussion about r33's and what times they should run, what power they need etc. Haven't seen a lot of results on rb25det S13's though. I will be starting to build a plan to reaching my goal of a creeping into the 11 second region, or at least a very low 12 in the not too distant future. The specs on the car so far - - 3 inch exhaust, hiflow cat, etc. - 600x300x76 front mount, 3 inch cooler piping - throttle body moved to front of plenum, to allow bonnet to shut, and shorter piping. was just easier this way.... - oil to air seperator - 1 piece tailshaft, no centre bearing. - 5 puk daiken exceddy brass button clutch - machined flywheel ( not lightened as its a ceramic one, thus enhancing chances of shattering) - bosch 040 fuel pump - suspension unknown. very hard in the front, not much give. back softer, think they are stock back springs. - 2x10 inch thermos for radiator - pod filter - back tyres advan semi slicks style 16 inch by 225's At the moment power output is nothing special, as still have stock turbo. WOuld estimate anywhere from 160 rwkw to 180rwkw from what you guys are saying on here. 12 psi or so..... however what i really want to know is the important stuff which gets you across the line the quickest. I dont want to spend say $800 on a boost controller when i could just get a simple turbosmart one, and put the rest into the turbo, or injectors.... SO the big 3 things from here on.... are Turbo, injectors ECU. i know the gt30's are a great turbo, but i think that is overkill for my goals, and reckon that i could almost have all 3 of the next steps done for the price. well 2 of them for sure. SO is a t04 with say a .60 AR good for 250rwkw..... do i have to go external wastegate to fit the t04? WOuld i be able to reach say 250 rwkw with an internal wastegate.... Injectors imagine some side feed 550 cc injectors are the go. ECU cant really go past the powerfc.... my other consideration is getting the computer chipped, or even a LINK. considering the car is around 1250 kg's to 1300 kgs now with the bigger motor. Is 250 rwkw enough to crack the 11's. I would like to run in the region of 16 to 17 psi. Would i need a new head gasket for that also... thanks for your time, everyones input will be much appreciated. had a spare 15 minutes to just put a few ideas together so yeah... thanks in advance

and now your making 245 rwkw on just .9 bar.... with that same turbo..... i am going off your avatar....

i am to a proud owner of the $25 simota ones. Haven't used it on the rb25 yet. Had it on the ca18 and made a noticeable difference. still just an air filter......

i take it you did other mods at the same time, thus not knowing the improvement.....

will depend on how rich or lean you want to tune the car aswell. the links are meant to be pretty could. A nice cheap mod that can be done, if you want to upgrade your turbo later, is just to get your stock dump pipe, machined out a bit. If you dont have one already. When the wastegate opens air rushes into that flat wall on the dump pipe and has to divert. Getting it all machined out wouldn't do much harm, for $50 or so.

my question is, why stick a massive fuel pump on a stock engine. mods should be done in proportion with each other. over kill can be good in some areas... like tyre width... (can never have to wide) But if your engine is still stock, just keep the stock fuel pump, untill you upgrade other stuff aswell.

i think it is a matter of guys wanting something else..... i have the S13 would rather the r33. most of you have the r33 and want the S13.

interesting clintr32 is the 2nd quickests, the rb20 aint as bad as people say....